Katyn-Tau
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key points, and essential skills required for mountaineers.
Bakin Kudinov
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMate### Climbing Route Description Category 6 difficulty ascent route with detailed technical specifications and team composition.
- Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m.
- Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
- Total travel time — 23 hours.
- One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice.
- Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:
The ascent to the summit of Кату-Норд (Katu North) via the southwest wall is technically challenging and requires good physical fitness.
Katyn 58 to the S. wall I. Kudinov
12.08–14.08
11.08
9.08
▲10.08
Route Description: СВ ребру Катынского плато
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit Main Dzhanga via the NE buttress and ridge, with recommendations for navigating challenging sections and organizing overnight stays.
Katyn-Tau, NE ridge – 4B cat. diff.
The initial bivouac is on the Bezengi glacier under the base of the NE counterfort. From the bivouac, cross the bergschrund via an avalanche deposit to the left of the counterfort and move up the snowy slope 400 m to the right of the avalanche chute, then traverse to the right under the rocks of the counterfort and ascend 80 m up a rocky couloir onto the counterfort. Further:
- Keep to the left slopes
- Move up through simple rocks alternating with snowy sections
- Proceed along the snowy slope to the "cushion"
6–7 hours from the bivouac. An overnight stay can be organized on the "cushion".
The initial bivouac is on the ridge at the beginning of the right-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier. From the bivouac: