70. Kyzkochkan via the East Face

The route is rocky, category 5A difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 73, 77–79). Length — 1000 m, elevation gain — 750 m, with 70°, VI — 20 m, duration — 14–16 hours. The approach path from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2-6 people) to the initial bivouac in the Joldjilga gorge under the East Face of Kyzkochkan peak — see route 14.

• From the initial bivouac, approach the talus cone-outlet of the couloir on the left side of the East Face.
• Ascend 120–150 m up the talus on the right side of the cone-outlet, then possibly up a narrow snowy couloir descending between the southeast slopes of Kyzkochkan peak and the ridge-island, rising along the wall under the South Ridge of the peak, to a small ledge under the chimney on the left side of the huge internal angle formed by the light left edge of the East Face and the Southeast Face.
• From the ledge, ascend 40 m up and to the right via a moderately difficult route.
• Ascend a 55–60 m chimney to a ledge.
• From it, ascend a 25 m moderately difficult 60–70° chimney to reach the talus ledges in the center of the huge internal angle.
• From the angle, ascend traversing up and to the right along the ledges for 20–25 m, then up a 50 m moderately difficult 30 m slab and a difficult wall, left of the overhanging sections, to reach the Lower Shoulder of the Right Rib of the huge internal angle.
• From the shoulder, ascend 30–40 m up a difficult vertical wall, bypassing the overhanging rock "gendarmes" on the left, with an exit onto a short 6–10 m narrow rocky ridge of the Right Rib.
• From the ridge, ascend 70–80 m up, left of the cleft, via a difficult wall with very difficult short sections on the left side of the Right Rib.

I.— Rock Climbing Category

I.— Rock Climbing Category 2. REGION — KICHIK-ALAI RIDGE 3. PEAK — KIZKochKAN (4100 m) First ascent via the Northeast face, Central combined route 4. PROPOSED difficulty category — 4A 5. Elevation gain — 560 m Route length 235 m. Sections of IV-V difficulty category — 590, average steepness — 6. PITON USAGE:

• Rock pitons — 36

Compiled by: M. Levin, A. Praхов 1st shooting point of photo 1 and so on. PHOTO 1 MAP OF KYRGYZ-ATA GORGE (Kichik-Alay range) Iski-Naukat LESKHOZ R. Kurgan Highway Alpinada 3401

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Climbing area, Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge
3. Peak Kyzkochkan, height 4100 m (according to KTMGV), ascent route via the northern ridge
4. Proposed category: 4B
5. Route description: elevation gain 900 m, length of sections 5–6 km/tr, 280 m, average steepness 60°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating ITO. Rock pitons 67 (including 1 ice piton). Ice pitons —. Bolt pitons —.
7. Total climbing hours 10.8 + 4 hours of preliminary reconnaissance and processing on 20.08.1977.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one — in a tent on a constructed ledge. Safe, but no water.
9. Team leader, participants, and their qualifications:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Type of ascent: Rock climbing
2. Area of ascent, ridge: Pamir-Alay, ridge Kikik-Alay
3. Peak, height, ascent route: Kyzkochkan 4100 m, via the northern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2.5
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 800 m
   • Length of sections: 5–6 km/tech
   • Average steepness of technical sections: 60°

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category ROCK
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kikik-Alay ridge
3. Summit Kyzkochkan height 4100 m Ascent route from Joljilga valley via the 3rd ridge (eastern slope)
4. Proposed difficulty category