Кызылбаш
Route Description: левой части СВ стены
Route passport for a Category 6A climb to peak Kyzylbash (Tian-Shan), including a detailed path description and technical characteristics.
Ascent Passport
- Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11
- Peak name: Kyzylbash, route: via the left part of the NE wall
- Route category 6A difficulty level according to KMGV 1999 >3×205
- Route type: rock
- Route elevation gain: 755 m Route length: 835 m Section lengths: R1 — 228 m, R2 — 217 m Average steepness: — main part of the route — 82°,
Route Description: левой части СВ стены
Report on the ascent made by the Ushba Alpine Club team to the summit of Kyzylbash (4,200 m) via a 6A route on the left part of the NE wall.
Ascent Passport
- Area: Western Tian Shan, Ugam range, section number according to the 2001 classification table: 7.11.
- Name of the peak: Kyzylbash (4200 m), route name: via the left part of the NE wall.
- Difficulty category: 6A.
- Route characteristics: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 695 m, route length: 755 m, section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 258 m, 6th difficulty category — 207 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 89°, entire route — 82°, 72°.
- Pitons left on the route: total — 7; including bolted pitons — 2. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolted | Chocks | Ice | | :---------: | :---------: | :-----------: | :------: |
Route Description: левой части СВ стены
First ascent of 6B category of complexity via the North-Eastern wall of Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash) in the Western Tian-Shan, with a detailed description of the route and technical means used.
Passport
- Rock class
- Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
- Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash), via the left part of the NE wall
- Proposed — 6B category, first ascent
- Height difference: 695 m, length — 755 m, length of sections 5–6 category — 465 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 82° (3540–3990)
- Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :-------- | :----------- | :---------- | :-------- | | 119/22 | 37/13 | 87/16 | 0 |
Route Description: центру СВ стены
Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Kyzylbash (4200 m) via the center of the NE wall in the Ugam range, Western Tian-Shan, category of difficulty 3A.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent type: rock climbing
- Ascent area: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: «Kyzylbash» — 4200 m via the center of the NE face
- Estimated difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics:
- Height difference: 820 m
- Average steepness: 84°
- Length of sections: R1 45 m, R2 450 m, R3 315 m
- Pitons hammered in:
Route Description: СВ стене
Report on the first ascent by a team via the Northeast Wall of Peak 4200 in the Ugam Range, Western Tian Shan, with a complexity category of 6.
I. Rock class. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, "Sairam" gorge. 3. "4200" peak, via the North-Eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B cat. of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 870 m, length - 1080 m. The length of sections with 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 750 m, of which 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 680 m. The average steepness of the main sections - 80°, of which 6B cat. of difficulty - 312 m (3230–3365), (3560–3610), (3650–3730). 6. Pitons driven:
| rock | bolt | chocks | ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 97/1 | 14/3 | 66/5 | 0/0 |
Route Description: СВ гребню
Climbing passport for the peak Kyzylbash (4200 m) in the Ugam Range via a 6B category difficulty route.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route "Kyzylbash" - 4200 m NE ridge 4. Expected difficulty category 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1050 m average steepness 62° length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. 320 m 6. Pitons hammered:
Route Description: С ребру
Description of the first ascent route to the summit "4200" in the Western Tian Shan via the North Edge, complexity category 5⁶ technical grade.
PASSPORT
- Class — rock climbing
- Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge.
- Ascent of peak "4200" via the North Edge, first ascent.
- Proposed category of difficulty: 5B.
- Height difference: 720 m, route length: 960 m, of which 5–6 category of difficulty: 420 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°.
- Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 60 | — | 25 | — |