Кызылбаш

Peak3,824 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Route passport for a Category 6A climb to peak Kyzylbash (Tian-Shan), including a detailed path description and technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport

  1. Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11
  2. Peak name: Kyzylbash, route: via the left part of the NE wall
  3. Route category 6A difficulty level according to KMGV 1999 >3×205
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Route elevation gain: 755 m Route length: 835 m Section lengths: R1 — 228 m, R2 — 217 m Average steepness: — main part of the route — 82°,
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Report on the ascent made by the Ushba Alpine Club team to the summit of Kyzylbash (4,200 m) via a 6A route on the left part of the NE wall.

Ascent Passport

  1. Area: Western Tian Shan, Ugam range, section number according to the 2001 classification table: 7.11.
  2. Name of the peak: Kyzylbash (4200 m), route name: via the left part of the NE wall.
  3. Difficulty category: 6A.
  4. Route characteristics: rock.
  5. Route elevation gain: 695 m, route length: 755 m, section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 258 m, 6th difficulty category — 207 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 89°, entire route — 82°, 72°.
  6. Pitons left on the route: total — 7; including bolted pitons — 2. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolted | Chocks | Ice | | :---------: | :---------: | :-----------: | :------: |
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First ascent of 6B category of complexity via the North-Eastern wall of Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash) in the Western Tian-Shan, with a detailed description of the route and technical means used.

Passport

  1. Rock class
  2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
  3. Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash), via the left part of the NE wall
  4. Proposed — 6B category, first ascent
  5. Height difference: 695 m, length — 755 m, length of sections 5–6 category — 465 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 82° (3540–3990)
  6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :-------- | :----------- | :---------- | :-------- | | 119/22 | 37/13 | 87/16 | 0 |
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Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Kyzylbash (4200 m) via the center of the NE wall in the Ugam range, Western Tian-Shan, category of difficulty 3A.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent type: rock climbing
  2. Ascent area: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: «Kyzylbash» — 4200 m via the center of the NE face
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Height difference: 820 m
    • Average steepness: 84°
    • Length of sections: R1 45 m, R2 450 m, R3 315 m
  6. Pitons hammered in:
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Report on the first ascent by a team via the Northeast Wall of Peak 4200 in the Ugam Range, Western Tian Shan, with a complexity category of 6.

I. Rock class. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, "Sairam" gorge. 3. "4200" peak, via the North-Eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B cat. of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 870 m, length - 1080 m. The length of sections with 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 750 m, of which 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 680 m. The average steepness of the main sections - 80°, of which 6B cat. of difficulty - 312 m (3230–3365), (3560–3610), (3650–3730). 6. Pitons driven:

rockboltchocksice
97/114/366/50/0
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Climbing passport for the peak Kyzylbash (4200 m) in the Ugam Range via a 6B category difficulty route.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route "Kyzylbash" - 4200 m NE ridge 4. Expected difficulty category 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1050 m average steepness 62° length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. 320 m 6. Pitons hammered:

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Description of the first ascent route to the summit "4200" in the Western Tian Shan via the North Edge, complexity category 5⁶ technical grade.

PASSPORT

  1. Class — rock climbing
  2. Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge.
  3. Ascent of peak "4200" via the North Edge, first ascent.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B.
  5. Height difference: 720 m, route length: 960 m, of which 5–6 category of difficulty: 420 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°.
  6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 60 | — | 25 | — |
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