17. Traverse Dumala — Piramida — 4580 m with ascent to Dumalata from the north 3B cat. diff. (A. Naumov, V. Vanin, V. Gornago, A. Dobrushin, I. Ilyinsky, Yu. Kolenkin, G. Naumova, A. Pokrovsky and T. Tretyakova — July 1-3, 1964). The path from the "Bezengi" alp camp to the Green Glade under the Maly Ukju glacier see in description 1. From the glade, ascend to the moraine, to the right of the lowering in its ridge. Then up the moraine and snowy slopes of the Maly Ukju glacier. Behind the southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak, exit left onto the moraine running along the southern slopes of the peak. On the moraine — a bivouac. From the "Bezengi" alp camp — 5-6 hours. From the moraine, crossing the

2

3 ⑥ route cat. diff. 5B (1) (2) (3)

Duma-Tau 4557

Dumala-Tau (4680) via South Ridge — Cat. 4B

From the bivouac behind the moraine, the path goes up the grassy slopes and talus, bypassing the ridge descending from the Dumala-Tau massif, to the right of the icefall. The route along the South Ridge begins to the left of a slab with a crack and a small stream at its upper part, via an 80-meter snowy couloir upward to the right onto a destroyed saddle behind the slab, from where the stream flows. From the saddle, follow a ledge upward to the left. From the end of the ledge, ascend a rocky couloir to a balcony. Along the balcony to the left and through a 20-meter crack, make a ascent to the left edge of the South wall. Further:

• Exit onto the West wall
• Traverse it to the left to bypass the jagged part of the edge
• After 40–45 m, exit onto the edge above the large "perо" (fin-like rock formation)
• From the edge, make a 5–6 m traverse along a ledge to the left under a gully
• From the left side of the gully, ascend 5 m up the wall, then 40 m along easy rocks under a 25-meter wall, which is climbed in the center
• From the wall, make a 60–70 m traverse through a couloir to the left

Dumala. Via the SE buttress, category 4A

From the green campsites in the moraine pocket of the Ullu-Auz glacier, ascend along the moraine. Cross a stream and climb a steep talus (partially grassy) slope to a large snowfield (0) and traverse it until the narrow part of the large SE couloir of v. Dumala, known as the "gates," becomes visible (1). Up to this point, the route coincides with the path to the upper cirques of the Ullu-Auz glacier. From the green campsites, it takes 1 hour. It is recommended to spend the night here to pass through the "gates" by 4:00 AM. Rockfall begins at 5:00 AM. The ascent to the "gates" via snow takes about 1 hour. The "gates" are traversed on snow, hugging the right-hand rocks. After the "gates," the couloir widens and turns into a broad snow slope cut by avalanche gullies. Ascend on the right part of the slope under the cover of the rocks of the Eastern peak's ridge. The snow is firm. Protection is running belays.

B ГА