7. Ascent Routes on Mt. Morion Vostochny (2125 m)

Via the North Spur, Cat. 2A

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Uluun River towards Mt. Morion. After 1 hour, begin ascending the couloir between Mt. Morion and Mt. Morion Vostochny, keeping to its left side. Bypass the initial, straightforward rocks of the spur on the right, then ascend onto the spur and continue up to the rocks. Movement is simultaneous. Further:

• Traverse across snow-covered slabs under a steep wall with fractures on the left and right parts — the first critical section of the route.
• The start of this section can be done from either the right or left, depending on the route conditions.
• After 15 meters, both paths converge before a 10-meter snow-filled internal angle; careful passage through this angle brings you to the left side of the spur, where belays can be organized. Continuing with alternating movement along the sharp, steep, and snowy ridge demands caution and the ability to set up belay points without halting. Before the second critical section — a wall with a vertical crack — it is necessary to establish a reliable belay station, as a fall could result in dropping into a steep couloir on the left. The wall must be ascended via the vertical crack, which accommodates good placements for nuts and cams. It is not recommended to bypass the wall on the left due to smooth, snowy rocks with minimal handholds and cracks. Further:

v. Klever (2119 m) – v. Fregat (2140 m) – v. Morion (2125 m), 3A cat. dif.

From the base camp, the ascent to v. Klever is done via route 1B cat. dif. along the Northern ridge. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From v. Klever to v. Fregat, there are three pronounced "gendarms". All are passed head-on. The route runs along a highly jagged, sharp ridge and is psychologically very difficult.

Ascent to the 1st "gendarme"

• Descend 60 m from v. Klever into the pass;
• Overcome two walls — 3 m and 5 m;
• Traverse 50 m and ascend to the 1st "gendarme".

Further

• Traverse 60 m along a ridge of similar character;
• Ascend to the 2nd "gendarme";
• Descend from it 15 m, approach the beginning of the most challenging part of the route.