ASCENT DOCUMENTATION 48

1. CATEGORY — TECHNICAL
2. REGION — KICHIK-ALAY ridge (Kurgan (south))
3. PEAK — S.M. TSVILLINGA peak 4326 m, first ascent via the north face (COMB.)
4. PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 910 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 347 m Average steepness — 70°
6. PITS ON: For belaying: rock — 77, for creating artificial anchors (ИТО): rock — 9. Ice — 10. Bolts — (no data)

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: Technical
2. Climbing region, range: Pamir-Alay, Kikik-Alay range
3. Peak: Tsvilling S.M. peak Height: 4326 m Ascent route: from Tsvilling pass
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4–5
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: ~850 m Length of sections: 5–6 with 3rd category difficulty, 30 m

Climbing Route Descriptions

I. Peak "Sтроитель Токтогульской ГЭС" (Builder of Toktogul HPP) Kurgan

The first ascent was made by a group consisting of Koporushkin V.G. (leader), Inozemtsev Yu.P., Kuzmichenok V.A., Tonka A.R. (all - 2nd sports category) in the period November 2-4, 1972. The route diagram is shown in Fig. 2. The mountain spur, in which the peak is located, stretches along the right bank of the Kurgan River in a north-northwest - south-southeast direction. The overall view of the route is shown in Fig. 3 (from the side of Tyuya Tash peak) and Fig. 4 (from the side of Sur-Too peak). Approach. From the bivouac, after crossing to the left bank of a nameless stream, we descend to the south. After 10-15 minutes of walking, we cross a stream flowing from under Dzhelan-Konybashi peak. Further, the trail goes along the right bank of the right-bank tributary of the Kurgan River (the stream originates under the Kumbel pass). After 1.5 hours of walking from the base camp, the trail crosses to the left bank of the tributary and goes along the snow-covered moraine in the direction of the southeastern ridge of Sur-Too peak (2 hours). Route. Further movement along the ridge in the direction of the saddle between Sur-Too peak and Peak "Builder of Toktogul HPP" - initially under the cliffs, and then along the cliffs of the western slopes of the ridge. There is a convenient place for an overnight stay on the saddle. The travel time from the base camp to the saddle is 6 hours. From the saddle, move along the crest to the I gendarme, which is bypassed on the left in the direction of travel. Further, we bypass the lower part of the II gendarme on the left. Then, along a snowy couloir, and in the upper part - along the cliffs with piton protection (1 piton) - we reach the crest under the III gendarme.

9. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west via Central couloir. The route is combined, category of difficulty 2A (fig. 5, 6, 15, 16, 18). Length — 1200 m, ascent — 700 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. The path from "Kirgizat" alpine camp (group of 2–4 people) to the initial bivouac on the moraine of Kurgan gorge under the Central couloir of Kurgan peak — see route 10. Departure from the initial bivouac at 3:00–4:00. Up the scree slope, then up the wide 35–40° scree Central couloir for 600–800 m (rockfall, protection). Further 300–350 m up the right branch of the couloir, from which exit left to a site above the long rocky Western spur — a bastion dividing the upper part of the Central couloir. From the site, 120–150 m up and right along a 30–35° steep scree slope to the snowy shoulder of the Western ridge. From the shoulder, left and 80–100 m up simple and moderately difficult 40–50° rocks of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, protection) to the summit of Kurgan Glavnaya. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours. The route is prone to rockfall!! img-0.jpeg Fig. 18. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west