Pogrebetskogo — Lokomotiv 2A cat. cl. traverse

Route description.

From the initial bivouac on the Morain of Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto Tuyuksu Glacier and move along its middle part. Having passed the glacier drop and the massif of Tuyuksu peak, turn left towards the large stones lying at the foot of the ridge of Tuyuksu peak. Climb to Tuyuksu Pass and move along the ridge to the peak. Descent:

• Down the snowy, not steep slopes, sometimes on talus — to the lowering between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv.
• Bypass a number of gendarmes on the left along the rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones

Pogrebetsky via n.d. from the North

Route description.

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuksu glacier and, bypassing the northeastern ridge of the Molodezhnaya peak, move along the middle of the glacier to its drop. Then deviate to the left and, bypassing large stones at the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuksu peak, reach the snow-ice step, then cross the right outflow of the Tuyuksu glacier and approach the northern wall of the peak, then continue moving under the rock outcrop along the snowy slope with a steepness of 30–35°. This section is dangerous: rockfalls and ice break-offs are possible. Therefore, it is recommended to start the route earlier, so that two-thirds of the path can be overcome before

Panorama from Pik Pioner. From left to right:

• Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m)
• Tuyuk-Su Needles (4213 m)
• Tuyuk-Su Peak (4218 m)
• Pogrebetsky Peak (4231 m)
• Lokomotiv Peak (4182 m)
• Zoya Kosmodemyanskaya Peak (4108 m)
• Molodeжная Peak (4147 m) Photo: Alexey Ignatenko, Almaty. (Full version — 400 Kb)

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier and, moving along the left lateral moraine, cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier that flows into it. Then follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the peaks of Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya. The ascent to the Lokomotiv peak is described above (category 2A difficulty via the North ridge). Bypassing a series of gendarmes on the right via moderately difficult and easy rocks, descend to the saddle between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv. Ascend to the peak of Pogrebetskogo via snowy, not very steep slopes, and occasionally talus. Then move along the eastern ridge to the Tuyuk-Su pass. From there, descend to the glacier to the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuk-Su peak, and, bypassing it on the left, head to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 10–12 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.