Route Description: Traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the Segment from Pik Parashyutistov to Pik Akhmad Donish

Group II of the "Burevestnik" Complex Expedition. Pamir, August 1968.

Description

of traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the segment including Pik Parashyutistov – Pamiro Firnovo Plateau – Pik Kommunizma – Pik 6701 m – Pik Izvestiya – Pik K. Tsetkin – Pik A. Donisha.

I. Brief Geographical Characteristics of the Area

The Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges are located in the Northwestern Pamir. Their junction, Pik Kommunizma, is the highest peak in the USSR. The ridges, the first stretching in a latitudinal direction and the second in a meridional direction, are characterized by powerful glaciation and high peaks in their central parts adjacent to Pik Kommunizma. Studying the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges, which play a significant role in shaping the climatic conditions of the Pamir and surrounding areas, as well as in the water balance of the Amu-Darya, is of great interest.

ASCENT PERFORMED IN THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM ON AUGUST 15, 1977 Ascent Class — High-altitude Ascent Area — Central Pamir Ascent Route — Peak Izvestiy via the southeast wall Ascent Characteristics

• Altitude difference — 2050 m
• Route length — 2680 m
• Average steepness — 72° (wall)
• Length of complex sections — 1300 m (altitude difference — 1150 m; average steepness — 85°) Pitons driven:

4.1.19

Report

OF THE TEAM OF THE UNION OF SPORTS SOCIETIES AND ORGANIZATIONS OF UZBEKISTAN ON THE ASCENT TO PIK IZVESTIYA 6840 m, MADE IN THE SUMMER SPORTS SEASON OF 1964. Tashkent – 1964

Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of the Pik Izvestiya Area

Pik Izvestiya (6840 m) is located in the heart of the Pamir Mountains, near the highest peak in the USSR — Pik Kommunizma — in the Petra I ridge. To the south of the peak lies a spur of the Petra I ridge, approximately 5 km long, featuring three six-thousander peaks:

• Ordzhonikidze 6280 m

Ascent to Pik Izvestii from Walter Glacier via the north spur

The first ascent was made by the "Pamir-77" team — led by Cherny N.D. Pik Izvestii is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, in the Academy of Sciences Range, between Pik 6700 and Voroshilov Peak. The height of Pik Izvestii is 6840 m. To the north lies the Walter Glacier, and to the south lies the Stalin Glacier. Until now, no routes had been made from Walter Glacier directly to the summit of Pik Izvestii. The route taken represents a snow-ice spur, starting with a straightforward ridge section from Walter Glacier. The spur leads to the firn fields adjacent to the summit of Pik Izvestii. The ascent was made from a base camp by a lake at the confluence of the Moskvina and Walter Glaciers by a team of trainers from "Pamir-77" in the following composition:

1. Cherny N.D., CMS — leader
2. Borodkin Yu.V., MS
3. Bobrov V.I., CMS
4. Smirnov R.N., MS The team had good prior acclimatization: ascent to Pik Petrovskogo, ascent up the same spur of Pik Izvestii to 6100 m (from where the team was withdrawn for rescue work) and participation in rescue work on Pik E. Korzhenevskoi with ascent to 5600 m.

Day 1

From the base camp by the lake at the confluence of the Moskvina and Walter Glaciers, the team departed on August 3, 1977, at 6:00. Moving along the right (orographic) moraine of Walter Glacier, the team reached the upper cirque of this glacier in 3 hours, crossed the glacier, and approached the base of the spur.