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PEAK OF THE NATION 4.000

Peak Avatsii 16th northwestern 56a, cat. difficulty 4B The path from the Shhelda camp through the Kurmy gorge or via VTsSPS. From the camp to the overnight stay takes 5–6 hours. We approach the wall along the snow, intersected by sloping couloirs. We enter the rocks in the right part of the right couloir. Further, we move on the left side of the couloir. Movement along the snow is possible. It is not recommended to exit to the middle part of the couloir (rockfall hazard). On the right, the couloir is fenced by four pointed gendarmes. Behind the last one, to the right of the couloir, there is a platform for an overnight stay and a control cairn. From the platform, we move up the snow-ice slope on its left (in the direction of travel) side. We move under the base of the couloir, separating the main wall massif from the rocky outcrop. We ascend the couloir upwards (approximately Zverevki). Staying on the left (in the direction of travel) side, we ascend to the base of a sheer wall. Then we traverse to the right along a randkluft to a rocky ridge in the ice slope. There is a bivouac site. From the bivouac, we ascend difficult rocks of the ridge, sometimes using pitons for support, and exit to the western wall descending from the summit. Along the wall, we ascend one rope length to a wide inclined ledge. Along the ledge, we move to the right and further upwards along a small groove, exiting to the pre-summit ridge.

Description

Ascending "Piki Aviatsii" Peak via the South Face, Category 2B difficulty

Location: Elbrus region, Kurmy valley, Kurmychi glacier (upper part). Route characteristics: south face, rocky. Route: ascent via the south face (from the Kurmychi glacier moraine). Characteristics of the peak:

• the peak is located in the lower part of a spur connecting the Kurmychi (4056 m), May 1st Peak, and Piki Aviatsii peaks;
• like all peaks in the MRP peaks area, Piki Aviatsii Peak is a heavily destroyed rocky massif with a wedge-shaped structure featuring a cascade of ledges, walls, and internal corners;
• the route's rocks are covered with fragments of destroyed rocks;
• it is essential to be constantly aware of the rockfall hazard on the route.

Peak Aviazii via the western ridge through Kurmychi peak, category 1B difficulty

Ascend to Kurmychi peak via the SE ridge (category 1B route). From the top of Kurmychi, descend along the broad snow-covered, scree-filled eastern ridge to a small snow plateau. From the plateau, follow a broad snowy ridge, then a broad, heavily broken simple rocky ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right (belay!), to ascend to Peak Aviazii. The journey from Kurmychi peak takes 1–1.5 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The duration of the route is 1 day.