Kurmutau

4. Proposed difficulty category 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 500 m, average steepness 35°, section lengths: I — 300 m, II — 250 m, III — 300 m, IV — — m, V — — m, VI — — m. 6. Pitons hammered in: for belay, for creating I.T.O.: — rock: 0 — ice: 34 — bolt: 0

1. Climbing class — technical
2. Climbing area — from Kitlots pass to Gezetau pass
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Kurmychi peak, height 4051 m, via the central counterfort of the NW wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1000 m. Average steepness — 35°. Length of sections: I difficulty category — 1000 m, II difficulty category — 600 m.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying, for creating ITO. Rock pitons — 3.
7. Number of travel hours — 3.5.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — there are no overnight stays on the route.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants: Vetrov Yu. I. 2nd sports category, leader; Valitov A. I. 2nd sports category; Golovin A. A. MS; Gorodetsky E. M. CMS; Kolomoytsev V. G. CMS.

165. Kurmychi via the South-East Ridge (Category 1B). The path from the Adylsu Alpine Camp to the initial bivouac under the southern slopes of Pik Aviatsii is described in Route 163. From there, ascend on the right side of the Kurmychi Glacier (closed crevasses!), which gradually becomes steeper, to the saddle on the ridge between the Uzlovaya peak on the left and Kurmychi on the right. From the glacier, ascend a snowy-icy slope with a bergschrund at the lower part (belay required!) to reach the saddle. From the saddle, ascend to the right and upwards along the broad snowy south-eastern ridge of Kurmychi, then along simple, partially moderately difficult broken rocks to reach the summit of Kurmychi. The journey from the moraine under Pik Aviatsii takes 3–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route or along the north-west ridge. The total duration of the route is 2 days.

293 p. No 15 cm

Ascent Log