Mount Makalu

Peak8,485 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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First ascent of the west wall of Makalu (8463 m) in alpine style by a combined route of 6B cat. of diff.

Passport

  1. High-altitude class.
  2. Central Himalayas, Main Himalayan Range.
  3. Makalu Peak (8463 m) via the West Face.
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain: 2663 m; route length: 3920 m. Length of sections:
  • 5th category of difficulty — 530 m;
  • 6th category of difficulty — 640 m. Average steepness:
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Report on the ascent of Makalu (8463 m) via the Northwest Ridge, category 6A, with a description of the tactics and technical details of the route.

Ascent Passport

  1. Category — High-altitude technical
  2. Himalayas, Barun river gorge
  3. Makalu (8463 m) via Northwest Ridge
  4. Proposed category: 6A
  5. Elevation gain: 2663 m; Distance: 7950 m. Average slope: main part of the route (above bergschrund) — 27°, entire route — 20° | 6. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | snow | | :----------------: | :--: | :----: | :--: | :--: | | 15 | 20 | 30 | 12 | 0 |
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Description of the ascent route to Makalu (8463 m) via the Northwest Ridge, category III-IV (or 5B in Russian grading, ED in IFAS grading), completed in 1996 without the use of oxygen.

Passport

I. Class of ascents — high-altitude technical 2. Region — Himalayas 3. Peak MAKALU (8463 m) via NW ridge, combined route 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B 5. Elevation gain: 2663 m (5800–8463 m), distance — 6200 m Distance of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 900 m Average steepness — 35° 6. Pitons driven: rock 43, chocks 52, ice screws 18, snow stakes 12

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