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between the rocks. The movement is alternating, with protection using rock ledges. In this place, the first rope team натянула перила for the rapid passage of the second rope team (I–I,5 ropes). The couloir is prone to rockfall. The rocks are heavily destroyed. Further:

• we come out onto steep and hard snow
• in the upper part, the couloir becomes steeper (25–30°)
• there are sections of not very firm ice The movement is alternating. We come out into a lowering of the ridge onto a snowy plateau. The ridge in this place practically merges with one of the plateaus in the southern part of the glacier. (2–2.5 hours) From the snowy plateau, the ascent directly up the ridge rocks is impossible due to the presence of a bergschrund at the start of the ascent, and the rocks are steep and icy with few handholds. Therefore, the group moved along the ridge across the snowy plateau and ascended a steep snowy slope (30–35°). The ascent is in three stages with alternating protection; the snow is loose and crumbly, and a deep trench remains behind the leader. The ascent goes in the direction of an ice mulda on the ridge (4–5 ropes, 1 hour). The further path goes directly along the ridge. The ridge in this place represents endless ascents of varying steepness with small gentle sections between them. In some places, snow lies in a thin layer on the ice. Protection is alternating; some sections are traversed on front points. One of the ascents ends with a steep ice wall (3–4 m), where piton protection and step chopping are required. Sometimes, under a shallow layer of snow, ice crevasses are encountered.

1. Climbing Passport

1. Area: Yazgulemsky Ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Grumm-Grzhimailo Glacier Section number according to the 1999 classification table — 4.12
2. Name of the peak: Peak Revolyutsii. Name of the route: via the north-eastern slope from Grumm-Grzhimailo Glacier (via the plateau of Vertikal Pass).
3. Proposed category — 5A cat. diff.
4. Character of the route: Ice and snow

Ascent certificate for v. Leytenanty 3117 m via North couloir, cross, orig., cat. 1B

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Mugovek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Leytenanty peak (3117) via North couloir, cross.
3. Category 1B, first ascent.
4. Rock climbing route.
5. Height difference 500 m, length 800 m, average slope 35°.
6. 2 rock and wired pitons driven.
7. Team's climbing time — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

Ascent Passport

1. Class — rock.
2. Area — Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Munku Sardyk, 3491 m, via the center of the North slope.
4. Proposed category — 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route character — ice and snow.
6. Height difference 500 m. Length 800 m. Average steepness 40°.
7. Ice pitons driven — 6 pieces.
8. Number of travel hours 4 hours.
9. No overnight stays.

Climbing Report

Ascent to the summit of Pasmurnaya (3460 m) via the Center of the Northwest Wall (first ascent)

• Eastern Sayan Range
• May 2012

Irkutsk — 2012 Climbing Passport

Region — Eastern Sayans, Bolshoy Sayan, Muguvek gorge. Peak — Pasmurnaya 3460 m. Route — Center of the Northwest Wall

• proposed category 3A
• first ascent

4=

Group Composition

1. Krasnukhin L.M., leader, 2nd sports category
2. Trubnikov V.I., Master of Sports
3. Shvab A.E., 1st sports category
4. Rasputin A.K., 2nd sports category
5. Slastnikova T.E., 2nd sports category The route was completed on October 27, 1976.

Brief Geographical Overview

Peak 2501 is located in the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Eastern Sayan, in the upper reaches of the Pravaya Kyngarga River gorge. To the south, the peak drops with steep rocky walls featuring three counterforts — left, central, and right, with an average steepness of 45°. (photo #1) To the north lies a steep, heavily dissected, and destroyed slope. To the east, it descends into a long, sharp ridge, continuing the main ridge of Tunkinskie Goltsy.

TRAVERSE DESCRIPTION:

v. BRIG – peak 9 May – North Tower v. TREHGLAVAYA. /EASTERN SAYAN/

• ANGARSK, 1970 – The peaks of the specified traverse are located in the Tunka Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan, in a long lateral spur, which serves as a watershed of the BUGOTOY and KYNGARGA rivers.
• Tunka Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan, stretching in a latitudinal direction.
• The highest point is 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the GANGA-KHAIRY river.
• In general, the ridge has sharp alpine forms. For 100 km – from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west – it has many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with impassable taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is 1880 m, on the northern ones – 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peaks of the traverse BRIG – peak 9 May – TREHGLAVAYA are located on a horseshoe-shaped ridge. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk.

48. ZAROMAT via North Ridge of Gendarme ZIL and East Ridge (combined route, category 4B) The path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut of the South branch of the Tsey glacier. From the hut (departure at 3–4 am), cross the plateau of the South branch of the Tsey glacier (crevasse closure) and approach the steep ice-and-snow Left couloir descending to the left of the North Ridge of Gendarme "ZIL". The couloir is overhung by ice seracs. Ascent:

• Overcome the bergschrund from the plateau.
• Ascend 150–180 m up the right side of the Left ice-and-snow couloir, following the rocks on the left side of the North Ridge of Gendarme "ZIL" (possible rockfall, avalanches, and ice serac collapses in the couloir — piton belay).
• Then exit the couloir to the right.
• On the steep ice-and-snow slope on the left side of the North Ridge of Gendarme "ZIL", ascend 100–130 m under a 30–35-meter wall.
• Traverse the wall on moderately difficult rocks.
• Along the boundary between ice and rocks, approach a 30-meter crack-chimney with a plug.