Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Baychechekay via the Center of the Northern Glacial Slope

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ala-Archa gorge Peak Baychechekay, 4515 m, via the center of the northern glacial slope (from the couloir) Proposed category: 4A, first ascent. Route type: ice-snow. Height difference: 450 m. Route length: 650 m
2. Section lengths: II category — 150 m, III — 350 m, IV — 150 m
3. Average slope: main part of the route — 45° Total route — 40°
4. Number of "cruxes" left on the route: total — 0

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: technical. 2. Ascent region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. V. Baichechekei, 4515 m, via the icy chute of the Western wall, ice route, winter ascent. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — approximately 5A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — wall section — 320 m, total — 600 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 225 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65° 6. Number of pitons driven: ice screws — 48, fixed elements — 5

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical. 2. Ascent Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. V. Baychechekei, 4515 m, via the ice gully of the Western wall, ice route, winter ascent. 4. Presumed difficulty category — originally 5A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — wall section — 320 m, total — 600 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections — 225 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: ice screws — 48, artificial elements — 5

Protocol №208 dated November 15, 1964 К-о Вгребно 3А

Description of the ascent to the 1st Botvey Tower

From the moraine campsite, we approach the saddle between the Botvey massif and Selmashevets. We move along the scree towards the saddle and, before reaching it, turn left (in the direction of travel) towards the "Window" between the first and second gendarmes. Here is a cairn. Then we move along the ridge to the summit tower, bypassing all gendarmes on the right in the direction of travel. At the same time, we lose considerable height. When bypassing the first gendarme, we rappel 15 m from the "window" to the other side of the ridge. Two counterforts extend from the gendarme. We ascend the first counterfort along the scree and descend to its other side down a gully covered with flow ice, 6–7 m, using sports equipment. We cross a wide couloir located between the 1st and 2nd counterforts. The second counterfort is passed in the same way as the first one. The gully down which we descend from it is much longer, 30 m, with an icy bottom covered with snow. We descend from it using sports equipment. A hook with a loop is left here. The gully ends with a small ice wall, 6–7 m. Continuing to descend, we bypass the next gendarme and start ascending a wide couloir, which narrows in its upper part and increases its steepness to 70–75°. In the upper part, the couloir is covered with flow ice. This section should be passed early in the morning due to rockfall hazard. 3 hooks are driven in when passing this section. The length of this section is 15 m. Further, the couloir becomes gentler and leads to a wide ledge covered with medium scree with a steepness of 30°. We ascend along the ledge to a slab with a steepness of 45°, 30 m long. We pass these slabs with piton belay to the "window" located in the eastern counterfort of the summit tower between the summit and a small gendarme. 5 pitons are driven in.

Re­port on the first as­cent of the route to Pik Boks via the north­ern wall (ice gul­ly).

As­cent Data

1. Tian-Shan, Kyr­gyz Range, Ala-Ar­cha val­ley. Pik Boks, 4240 m, via the ice gul­ly of the north­ern wall. Pro­posed cat­egory 4A, first as­cent. Na­ture of the route — com­bined. El­e­va­tion gain 600 m. Route length 850 m.
2. Sec­tion lengths: II cat. — 300 m, III — 350 m, IV — 200 m.
3. Av­er­age steep­ness: main sec­tion — 50° O­ver­all steep­ness — 45°
4. Pitons left: to­tal — 0;

I. Climbing category: — technical II. Climbing area: — Kirghizskiy Ala-Too III. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Izyiskatel' 4400 m from the North. IV. Proposed difficulty category — 2B V. Route characteristics: — height difference 670 m; complex section length 80 m; average steepness 40° VI. Pitons hammered: for belay — 4 ice screws. VII. Number of travel hours — 5; VIII. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification: Leader: BOGOLYUBOV V.V. — 3rd sports category. Participants:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Area 3. Peak, its height, ascent route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: 6. Number of pitons for belay and descent organization: 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights and their characteristics first ascent Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa tourist center; Ak-Sai glacier cirque. v. Korona (I-st tower),

Route Ascent to Korona peak, 1st - 2nd towers, 4A cat. diff. B. Gavrilov, '56

Ascent report for the first ascent of the route to Pik Korona 1st Tower via the north face (ice gully).

Ascent Details

1. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa valley. Pik Korona 1st Tower, 4810 m, via the ice gully on the north face. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 800 m. Route length: 1050 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 400 m, II — 100 m, III — 350 m, IV — 100 m, V — 100 m,
3. Average slope: main part of the route — 55° Total route — 45°

но­сти 30–35 м straight up. Да­лее 80 м вверх по кру­тым ска­лам сред­ней труд­но­сти Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра and along a 20-meter vertical difficult chimney to ascend to a slanting shelf. Along the shelf, traverse under the wall to the right to a vertical cleft. Up a difficult 20-meter cleft in the wall (the key point of the route) to ascend to a slanting shelf. From the shelf, along icy rocks 25 m up to a rocky site on the Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра. From the site, 250–300 m up and to the right along a snowy ridge, then along the slope. Then, traverse up and to the right through an icy-snowy couloir and move to the right onto rocky shelves. From the shelves, 1215 m:

• up and to the right along moderately difficult, разру­шен­ным ска­лам,