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Route Description: Цындышхо (С - ЮЗ), 3 гребню, траверс
Description of the ascent route to the Tsyndyshkho peaks (North, Main, South-West) in the Caucasus, category 4A difficulty level, climbed by a group of climbers in 1980.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent type: rock climbing
- Ascent area: Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
- Ascent route: traverse of Tsyndyshko: Northern 3102 m, 2nd Northern 3107 m, Main 3210 m, South-Western 3150 m.
- Proposed difficulty category: 4A
- Pitons driven: rock: 32 (including chocks) ice: 4 bolt: –
Route Description: левому кф. В стены
First ascent description of Peak 60 let VLKSM via the Eastern Wall, difficulty category 2B and 3B, with a detailed route description and necessary equipment.
- Climbing category: Rock climbing.
- Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvam mountain area to Marukh pass.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: 60-let VLKSM, 3400 m, via the left buttress of the eastern wall.
- Estimated difficulty category: 2B.
- Route characteristics:
Height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 60–65°, route length:
K.T.R. 1 2 3 4 5 6 M 153 650 100 - - -
Route Description: центру В стены
Ascent certificate for vlkSM peak, 3400 m via the center of the eastern wall in Arkhyz, category of difficulty 3B.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent class: rock.
- Ascent area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyval mountain to Marukh pass.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: 60-let VLKSM, 3400 m via the center of the eastern wall.
- Expected difficulty category: 3B.
- Route characteristics:
Height difference 800 m, average slope 65–70°, route length:
D.F.C. 1 2 3 4 5 6
Route Description: В гребню
Description of a technical route of 2B category of difficulty to the top Kardivach-Main (3150 m) in Krasnodar region via the eastern ridge.
ASCENT PASS
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: 2.1. Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Kardyvach — Glavnaya, 3150 m, via the eastern ridge, combined (snow, rocks).
- Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 40°.
- Expected difficulty category: 2B.
- Pitons driven: for belay; for creating artificial support points | | rock pitons | ice screws | | :---------- | :--------- | :--------- | | rock | 2 | 1 |
Route Description: СЗ гребню
### Description of the First Ascent via the Northwest Ridge to Kardyvach Glavnaya Peak (3105 m) The climb is categorized as 4-5 difficulty and was first achieved by a group of mountaineers in 1970.
Description
The route of the first ascent via the Northwest Ridge to the summit of Kardyvach Glavnaya (3105 m) - approximately Category 4B difficulty - was climbed by a group of climbers from the Krasnodar City Section of Alpinism under the DSO "TRUD" in May 1970. The Kardyvach Glavnaya peak, with an elevation of 3105 m, is located on the Main (Watershed) Ridge, near the junction of the Main and Gagra ridges in the area of Kardyvach-Ritsa lakes.
The peak is a rocky-snowy dome with a sharp shoulder extending to the northwest, which then turns into a ridge.
The described ascent route goes from the "13-ti" pass along the northwest ridge.
Route Characteristics
The route is rocky-snowy, mainly ridge-like, and surpasses routes like:
- Dubll-peak
- Adai-khokh
Route Description: В кф.
Report on the ascent of the FAKK team to the summit of Nagai-Koshki via the eastern spur on 23.08.2020 with a description of the 2A category complexity route.
Report
On the ascent to Nagay-Koshki peak (2090 m) via the eastern counterfort ("Botanik") 2A category of complexity by the FAKK team for the period 23.08.2020
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Khrabovchenko V.V., 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Bondarenko S., 2nd sports rank, Zhikhar R., 3rd sports rank, Ovcharenko D., 3rd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Kravchenko O.V., CMS, instructor 2 cat., Aristov I.E., MS, instructor 2 cat. |
| 1.4 | Organization | Federation of Alpinism of Krasnodar Krai |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object |
Route Description: СЗ склону и З гребню
Report on the ascent of the SAK "Maximum" team to the summit of Sofia via the Northwest Slope and West Ridge, a Category 2A climb.
Report
On the ascent to the summit of Sofia via the northwest slope and west ridge, category 2A complexity, by the team of SAC "Maximum", August 3, 2023.
I. Ascent Passport
| №№ | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Svitovoy Kirill Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Kozoderov Vasily Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank, Shkurenko Yulia Viktorovna, 3rd sports rank, Medalieva Zaira Aslanovna, 3rd sports rank, Chernov Stanislav Evgenievich, 3rd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Grebenyuk Alexander Viktorovich |
Route Description: центр. В ребру, траверс
Report on the ascent of Akben peaks via the central eastern ridge, category 4A, made in 1978 by a group of climbers from Rostov.
REPORT
ON THE ASCENT (TRAVERSAL) OF AKBENSKIE PEAKS VIA THE CENTRAL EASTERN EDGE EXPEDITION LEADER GNOEVSKY I.P. Taganrog 1978
I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object
Akbenskie (North and South) peaks are located in the Ptysh cirque and are adjacent to Ptysh Glavny from the south, and to the Juguтурлючат massif from the north. Thus, Akbenskie peaks are situated on the Main Caucasian Ridge. The height of the South peak is 3510 m, and the North peak is 3530 m. The Akbenskie peaks drop sharply into the Ptysh cirque from the east and to the South Ptysh cirque from the west. The height difference from the glacier to the peak is 1100 m.
2. Climbing Conditions in the Area
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the passage of category 3B complexity route to Maly Ayshaut summit via the eastern counterfort with a detailed analysis of the sections and climbing conditions.
Sportive Characteristics and Selection of the Ascent Object
The area began to be explored in terms of alpinism in 1934. The peak Maly Aksaut has the following routes:
- a route of category 2B difficulty via the eastern ridge, described in F. Kropff's book "Western Caucasus", M.: FiS, 1962;
- a route traversed by the Odessa Regional Council of the "Avangard" sports society in July 1975, approximately category 3B difficulty. No other data on ascents to the peak M. Aksaut was found. Upon closer acquaintance with the area, the logical and objective safety of the route along the eastern counterfort was established, as well as its sportive attractiveness. This determined the object of the ascent.
Composition of the Sports Group
The group consisted of:
- Braer V.I. (leader), 1st sports category
- Markovsky O.V., Master of Sports of the USSR
Route Description: Ю стене
Description of the passage of the 5B category difficulty route to the summit of Amanauz Main via the South wall, made by instructors of "Alibek" alpine camp in 1977.
REPORT
On the ascent of Mt. AMANAUZ Main via the South face, category 5B - (control and test route by B. Romanov), made by instructors at "Alibek" alpine camp Shklyaev E.V. and Smaglyukov S.E. on August 3-4, 1977.
Brief explanations for the table
The start of the route is easily recognizable. It is located at the intersection of a vertical line dropped from the "room" corner with the snow adjacent to the wall. Here, a monolithic outer corner goes up. Further movement is completely unambiguous and logical. The first control point is located in the "room" corner on an inclined shelf. The overhanging walls were bypassed on the left side, where their extent is minimal. The average steepness of sections R1-R4 approaches 78 °. Due to the monolithic and relief nature of the rocks, the first climber was able to ascend with a backpack. The backpacks were pulled up only on section 4. At the end of section 5, there is a good bivouac site. Sections 6, 8, 9-11 are significantly more destroyed; there are large stones lying separately. The second control point is located at the bivouac (section 8). The path from the bivouac goes around the bifurcation of the South ridge to the right through the "black" wall, leading to its shoulder. Further, the path goes along the ridge. The average steepness of the route is about 60 °. In general, the route can be divided into two parts: R1-R4 and R5-R11. The first part is significantly more complex and steeper, and its passage can be facilitated by preliminary processing of the wall's beginning.