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Ascent route to Tsyndyshko West peak (3150 m) from Tsyndyshko pass, category IIb.

Ascent Passport

Ascent Category— technical
Ascent Region— Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach Lake
Ascent Route— Mt. Tsyndyshkho Southwest (3150 m) from Tsyndyshkho Pass, 2B category
Ascent Characteristics:
The route is combined, total elevation gain — 400–450 m, average slope — 35–40°, total climbing time (from camp to camp) — 10–13 hours.
Team Name— Group of climbers from Krasnodar City Committee on Physical Culture and Sports.
Team Members:Zavalei Igor Leonidovich — leader, 2nd sports category; Nataev Vladimir Nikolaevich — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor; Yakovleva Lyudmila Trofimovna — 3rd sports category; Rogulenko Vyacheslav Ivanovich — 2nd sports category
Team Coach —Kisel Sergey Yakovlevich — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior mountaineering instructor.
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Climbing route description to Tsyndyshko South-West summit, a challenging rock ascent with ice component and high technical difficulty.

Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp at Kardyvach Lake, ascend along the Mzymta River to the steep ascent to the plateau under Smidovikha Peak (1 hour). Up to the right onto the plateau and further to the 9th pass (1.5 hours). From here, descend and then, traversing the slopes of the Gl. Tsyndyshho massif, exit under the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West. The base of the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West is represented by three steep, converging buttresses. The route follows the leftmost one, as the most logical and safe.

Brief Explanation for the Table

The route begins up a steep snow-ice couloir between the left and central buttresses of the Eastern ridge (R0–R1). Then, up to the left across steep, snow-covered rock slabs — exit onto the left buttress of the Eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West (R1–R2). The route then logically follows the edge of the buttress (R2–R3, R3–R4). Climbing is quite difficult in places. The rocks are steep and highly smoothed in places. The R4–R5 section is a gentle, narrow rock ridge with two small but steep gendarmes, which are climbed head-on. At the start of this section, the first control cairn is built. At the end of the ridge, there is a short wall ending in a ledge where a tent can be set up (R5–R6). From here, straight up a sheer wall (R6–R7). There are very few holds, and climbing is difficult. At the end of the section, the second control cairn is built. The large black gendarme is climbed straight up (R7–R8), with free climbing. Sections R8–R9, R9–R10 are climbed with alternate belays through an ice axe. On section R9–R10, there are many large snow cornices. At the end of R9–R10, there is a wide snow corrie. From the snow corrie, straight up snow-covered rocks — exit onto the main ridge of V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R10–R11). Here, the route converges with route 2B cat. sl. on V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R11–R12). The ascent took 12 hours.

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Description of the ascent route to the Tsyndyshkho peaks (North, Main, South-West) in the Caucasus, category 4A difficulty level, climbed by a group of climbers in 1980.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent type: rock climbing
  2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
  3. Ascent route: traverse of Tsyndyshko: Northern 3102 m, 2nd Northern 3107 m, Main 3210 m, South-Western 3150 m.
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A
  5. Pitons driven: rock: 32 (including chocks) ice: 4 bolt: –
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First ascent description of Peak 60 let VLKSM via the Eastern Wall, difficulty category 2B and 3B, with a detailed route description and necessary equipment.

  1. Climbing category: Rock climbing.
  2. Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvam mountain area to Marukh pass.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: 60-let VLKSM, 3400 m, via the left buttress of the eastern wall.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B.
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 60–65°, route length:
    K.T.R.123456
    M153650100---
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Ascent certificate for vlkSM peak, 3400 m via the center of the eastern wall in Arkhyz, category of difficulty 3B.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent class: rock.
  2. Ascent area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyval mountain to Marukh pass.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: 60-let VLKSM, 3400 m via the center of the eastern wall.
  4. Expected difficulty category: 3B.
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference 800 m, average slope 65–70°, route length:
    D.F.C.123456
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Description of a technical route of 2B category of difficulty to the top Kardivach-Main (3150 m) in Krasnodar region via the eastern ridge.

ASCENT PASS

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: 2.1. Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Kardyvach — Glavnaya, 3150 m, via the eastern ridge, combined (snow, rocks).
  4. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 40°.
  5. Expected difficulty category: 2B.
  6. Pitons driven: for belay; for creating artificial support points | | rock pitons | ice screws | | :---------- | :--------- | :--------- | | rock | 2 | 1 |
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### Description of the First Ascent via the Northwest Ridge to Kardyvach Glavnaya Peak (3105 m) The climb is categorized as 4-5 difficulty and was first achieved by a group of mountaineers in 1970.

Description

The route of the first ascent via the Northwest Ridge to the summit of Kardyvach Glavnaya (3105 m) - approximately Category 4B difficulty - was climbed by a group of climbers from the Krasnodar City Section of Alpinism under the DSO "TRUD" in May 1970. The Kardyvach Glavnaya peak, with an elevation of 3105 m, is located on the Main (Watershed) Ridge, near the junction of the Main and Gagra ridges in the area of Kardyvach-Ritsa lakes. The peak is a rocky-snowy dome with a sharp shoulder extending to the northwest, which then turns into a ridge. The described ascent route goes from the "13-ti" pass along the northwest ridge.

Route Characteristics

The route is rocky-snowy, mainly ridge-like, and surpasses routes like:

  • Dubll-peak
  • Adai-khokh
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Report on the ascent of the FAKK team to the summit of Nagai-Koshki via the eastern spur on 23.08.2020 with a description of the 2A category complexity route.

Report

On the ascent to Nagay-Koshki peak (2090 m) via the eastern counterfort ("Botanik") 2A category of complexity by the FAKK team for the period 23.08.2020

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderKhrabovchenko V.V., 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsBondarenko S., 2nd sports rank, Zhikhar R., 3rd sports rank, Ovcharenko D., 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachKravchenko O.V., CMS, instructor 2 cat., Aristov I.E., MS, instructor 2 cat.
1.4OrganizationFederation of Alpinism of Krasnodar Krai
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
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Report on the ascent of the SAK "Maximum" team to the summit of Sofia via the Northwest Slope and West Ridge, a Category 2A climb.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Sofia via the northwest slope and west ridge, category 2A complexity, by the team of SAC "Maximum", August 3, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

№№1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderSvitovoy Kirill Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsKozoderov Vasily Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank, Shkurenko Yulia Viktorovna, 3rd sports rank, Medalieva Zaira Aslanovna, 3rd sports rank, Chernov Stanislav Evgenievich, 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachGrebenyuk Alexander Viktorovich
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Report on the ascent of Akben peaks via the central eastern ridge, category 4A, made in 1978 by a group of climbers from Rostov.

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT (TRAVERSAL) OF AKBENSKIE PEAKS VIA THE CENTRAL EASTERN EDGE EXPEDITION LEADER GNOEVSKY I.P. Taganrog 1978

I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Akbenskie (North and South) peaks are located in the Ptysh cirque and are adjacent to Ptysh Glavny from the south, and to the Juguтурлючат massif from the north. Thus, Akbenskie peaks are situated on the Main Caucasian Ridge. The height of the South peak is 3510 m, and the North peak is 3530 m. The Akbenskie peaks drop sharply into the Ptysh cirque from the east and to the South Ptysh cirque from the west. The height difference from the glacier to the peak is 1100 m.

2. Climbing Conditions in the Area

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