REPORT

On the ascent to the summit 5650 m «Tespara» via the western ridge

FIRST ASCENT

Team members:

NEKRASOV V.L. GORODETSKII V.I. Team coach: MSМК NEKRASOV V.P. August 26, 1976

I. Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

10­ Н

Ascent Log

I. Climb category — high-altitude technical. 2. Climbing area — Pamir, Shakhdarin Range. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route —

• Peak 5300 m via the right western spur.

4. Proposed difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average slope — 4°, length of sections: I 60 m; II 80 m; III 50 m; IV 200 m; V 50 m; VI 300 m; VII 40 m; VIII 300 m; IX 200 m; X 400 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating belay stations. rock — 9 ice — 0

Ascent Log

I. Ascent Class - High-altitude 2. Ascent Area - Pamir, Yazgulem Range 3. Object of Ascent - Peak Revolyutsii - 6974 m, first ascent from the Khabarviv-Khats glacier via the counterfort of the South Face 4. Estimated Difficulty Category - 5B 5. Route Characteristics:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: 10-3 Pamir, North Shugnanskij Ridge.
3. Peak, height, ascent route: P. 5204 via the left edge of the northern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation difference: 1050 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m; average steepness — 70°.
6. Number of pitons:

Ascent passport to the summit of Tamara (Gadzhi) 3141 m via the Eastern slope, cat. 2B.

1. East Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Ganga Khairyim gorge, section 6.1.2. 2. Tamara (Gadzhi) peak, 3141 m, via the Eastern slope. 3. Proposed cat. 2B, third ascent. 4. Route type — rock. 5. Height difference — 350 m, length — 580 m, average steepness — 45°. 6. Pitons driven: rock and chock stones — 27 pcs. 7. Team's walking hours — 10 h. 8. No overnight stays on the route.
2. First group: Stanevich A.M. 2nd sports category Plotnikov N.K. 2nd sports category First ascent made on August 7, 1973. Second group:

Group Composition

1. Krasnukhin L.M., leader, 2nd sports category
2. Trubnikov V.I., Master of Sports
3. Shvab A.E., 1st sports category
4. Rasputin A.K., 2nd sports category
5. Slastnikova T.E., 2nd sports category The route was completed on October 27, 1976.

Brief Geographical Overview

Peak 2501 is located in the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Eastern Sayan, in the upper reaches of the Pravaya Kyngarga River gorge. To the south, the peak drops with steep rocky walls featuring three counterforts — left, central, and right, with an average steepness of 45°. (photo #1) To the north lies a steep, heavily dissected, and destroyed slope. To the east, it descends into a long, sharp ridge, continuing the main ridge of Tunkinskie Goltsy.

The summit of Bronenosets (about 2450 m) Tunkinskie Goltsy, Eastern Sayan The summit is located in the upper reaches of the Levaya Kyngarga River. The Kyngarga River gorge has already been explored for mountaineering. Routes ranging from 1B to 4B difficulty category have been laid out to the peaks of this area. One of the last uncharted peaks for climbers was the Bronenosets summit. The first ascent via the North (Central) ridge was made during the Irkutsk regional alpinade on May 10, 1976, by a group consisting of: (see general view) Alpinade leader MS - T. V. Trubnikova Detachment commander - V. P. Bryanskogo - 1st sports category. Participants:

• G. A. Moskalev - CMS
• A. S. Kodachikov - CMS
• V. P. Nikonov - 2nd sports category

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technically challenging.
2. Ascent area: Eastern Sayan, Tunka Alps, Zuun-Khandagai gorge.
3. Dinosaur Peak: shoulder of the southwest ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m, average steepness: 45°, length of sections: R0–R1 — 2.5 km. R1–R2 — 500 m. R2–R3 — 90 m. R3–R4 — 450 m.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.