Dedicated to the 100th anniversary of V. I. Lenin's birth

Report

on the traverse: Peak 6200 – Peak E. Korzhenevskoi – Peak Chetyrekh, made by the team of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Education and Sports on July 28 – August 15, 1969, for the USSR Climbing Championship 1969 in the traverse category. The traversed peaks are located in the northwestern Pamir, in the Muk-su river basin. The most significant meridional ridge of the Pamir – the Academy of Sciences Range – branches out in its northern part. From Peak Akhmat Donish (6665 m) to the northwest, a powerful spur extends, bearing the peaks:

• Peak Chetyrekh (6380 m);
• Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m);
• Peak 6200. After Peak 6200, the spur sharply descends towards Muk-su.

N512 4.57 AKADEMIYA NAUK RANGE. PEAK 5429 M VIA THE EAST RIDGE (approximately category 4A) Team of the Ukrainian Republican Council of the SDSO "BUREVESTNIK" PAMIR 1981

Map of the ascent area

to p. 5429. M: 1 cm – 1 km

Description of the approach to the route

Peak 5429 m is located in a spur of the Peter the First Range, in the cirque of the southern part of the Ayu-Jilga glacier, between peak 4×6308 m on the left and p. 6215 m on the right. The length of the Ayu-Jilga glacier is about 9 km. It stretches from south to north and occupies an area of about 20 sq. km. The Ayu-Jilga river, flowing out of the glacier to the north, flows into the Muksu river, to which there are about 20 km along the Ayu-Jilga gorge. Ayu-Jilga is a rather full-flowing river, and it is not recommended to ford it; it is better to cross it on the glacier.

4.2.16

Report

Ravok East. Group of climbers SK A-18 SibVO on the first ascent to the peak 5223 m via the eastern ridge, route approximately category 3B.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route.

Map of the ascent area.

Ascent and descent route.

Route description.

3A+1

First ascent on p. "Metallurgov Urala" (5150 m) via the left eastern counterforce. Peak "Metallurgov Urala" is located in the western part of the Trans-Alay Range in a spur extending towards Peak Sverdlova between the peaks:

• to the south - Avyk-Too (5285 m)
• to the north - p. N. I. Kuznetsova (5300 m). The ascent was made from an intermediate base camp (3800 m), located on an old moraine covered with grass, near a small lake, in the upper reaches of the Kok-Kyik gorge. The path from the base camp at 3800 m goes along the left (orographically) bank of the r. Kok-Kyik, along a grassy slope. After 40–50 minutes of walking, the path reaches the scree, and you need to turn right, bypassing the spurs of p. Kuznetsova. After an hour and a half to two hours of walking, you need to cross a ridge coming from the summit (5150) of p. Metallurgov Urala. It takes 20–30 minutes to overcome the ridge. Behind the ridge, a flat black lateral moraine begins (orographically left of l. Kok-Kyik), along which, after 1.5 hours, you reach the beginning of the route. Here is the first overnight stay on the moraine at an altitude of 4500 m. The travel time from the intermediate base camp (3800 m) to 4500 m is 3–4 hours. The travel time from the first overnight stay to the beginning of the route is 30–40 minutes along the Kok-Kyik glacier. The exit to the left counterforce is via rocks of medium difficulty. Further advancement is possible only along the counterforce; after 3–4 ropes, an 8–10 m wall at an angle of 70–80° is encountered, requiring careful piton protection.

2 ­couloir ­snow-ice, ­20–30 ­m ­wide, ­30–40° ­steepness

After ­crossing ­the ­couloir, ­we ­again ­emerge ­onto ­the ­left ­counterfort. ­Encountered gendar­mes ­are ­overcome ­head-on. ­The ­counterfort ­leads ­to ­the ­pre-summit ­ridge. The ­ascent ­to ­the ­pre-summit ­ridge ­follows a ­steep ­snowy ­couloir, ­60–65° ­steepness. The ­couloir ­leads ­to ­the ­pre-summit, ­where ­a ­bivouac ­can ­be ­set ­up. ­The ­ascent ­to the ­summit ­is ­via ­a ­gentle ­snowy ­slope. The ­entire ­ascent ­to ­the ­summit ­takes ­8–9 ­hours. Descent:

• Down ­the ­steep ­snow-ice ­slope ­to ­the ­north ­— ­very ­difficult ­and ­requires careful ­protection.

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Climbing category - technical - high-altitude.
2. Climbing area - SW Pamir, Shakhdarin range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - p. Gl. Moskovskoy pravdy, 6000 m, via North ice wall from E. icefall Gl.v.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B cat. diff.
5. Height difference (from base camp) - 1500 m.
6. Average steepness - 60°.
7. Total route length - 2000 m.
8. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 700 m.
9. Number of pitons driven - 84 ice screws.

1. Category of ascent — high-altitude and technical.
2. Area of ascent — Southern spurs of the Shakhdarin ridge, upper reaches of the Zuvgand gorge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p.TGU, 6183 m, along the edge of the Eastern rib of the Southern pre-peak.
4. Category of difficulty – 6.
5. Characteristics of the route: the route is combined, height difference – 1100 m, including the wall part – 1000 m, length of sections: – 5th category of difficulty – 545 m – 6th category of difficulty – 585 m, route length – 1180 m, average steepness – 74°.
6. Number of pitons driven (for belaying / for ITO):

Climbing Information

1. Ascent: South-West Pamir
2. Mountain range: Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak, its height, and route: «Treугольник» (Triangle) 5450 m
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A (via the north-west ridge)
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 650 m
   • Average steepness: 50°

Geological and Geographical Characteristics of the Area

Peak Chyurlenisa is located in the Shakhdarin Range (South-West Pamir) near peaks Engel'sa and Daneliaitis. With its eastern ridge, it ends a lateral spur of the Shakhdarin Range, which is located in a latitudinal direction and is surrounded by glaciers:

• Kishty-Dzherob (from the south)
• Kasper (from the north) For Peak Chyurlenisa, as well as for most of the peaks in South-West Pamir, a horizontal arrangement of rock layers is typical. A characteristic feature of the glaciation in this area is the short length of the glaciers, their extremely steep drop in the upper part, and very gentle slope in the middle and lower parts, with a small number of crevasses. The glaciers of the peaks in the area feed the Kishty-Dzherob Glacier. Its valley is 77 km long, and its surface is littered with moraine up to the highest reaches. Peak Chyurlenisa is located almost at the top of a peculiar horseshoe that encompasses the Kishty-Dzherob Glacier. The eastern side of the horseshoe is a ridge consisting of peaks:
• "5491"
• "Moskovskoy Pravdy"
• "Pamyati Zhertv Tetnulda"

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.