EASTERN SAYANS IRKUTSK peak (2742 m) via the south ridge, cat. 3B difficulty (year-round)

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION

The Irkutsk peak is situated in the main ridge of the Tunkinskiye Belki range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. It is located at the head of the Pravaya Zun-Khandagai River gorge.

TRANSPORTATION AND APPROACH TO THE BASE CAMP

From Irkutsk city, take a bus or drive to Arshan resort — 218 km. From Arshan resort, head west along the main ridge through Tagarkhay village by car or on foot — 12 km. Continue on foot along the trail on the right side (as you go) of the Zun-Khandagai River gorge until the fork of the left and right Zun-Khandagai rivers — 9 km. The base camp is located at the fork. The tree line is at this elevation, and there is an abundance of firewood. Time breakdown:

• Irkutsk–Arshan — 7 hours by bus

Photo 2. Third rope.

The leader on the section R11–R12, 5 m from the belay station. Passing the crack — chimney, difficult climbing, smoothed rocks, steepness 65°. The photo is taken from the belay station at R9.

Photo 3. Fourth rope.

The leader at point R15. Passed:

• a vertical wall
• then 20 m internal corner. The photo is taken from the belay station at R12.

Photo 4. Fifth rope.

Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the Moygota gorge

The Moygota gorge is located in the middle part of the main watershed of the Tunkin Goltsy in the Eastern Sayan. The Moygota peak closes the Moygota gorge and is located in the main watershed ridge. The heights of the peaks in the Moygota gorge do not exceed 3000 m. The alpine relief of the area with jagged rocky ridges makes it possible to classify a number of interesting sporting routes in this gorge. There are already classified routes to:

• Moygota peak via the southern ridge – 3A;
• Flibustier peak – 3B and 1B;
• Per'ya peak – 2B. The passage of these routes is often complicated by a significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and mostly melts only by the end of May or June. Approaching with a load to the base camp – on the edge of the forest, from the Tunkinskaya valley, from the road leading from the village of Tagarhay – takes just under two walking days.

Brief Geographical Description of the Area

The peak Moygota is located in the main ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountain range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching 200 km in a latitudinal direction. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym gorge. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km - from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west - the ridge has many peaks of great interest to climbers.

• The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1800 m, and on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m.
• The snow cover almost completely melts by the end of summer.
• Glaciation is found only in the western part of the ridge. Moygota peak has an elevation of about 2883 m above sea level. The nearest settlements - Arshan and Tagarhay - are 25–30 km away. Access is via a dirt road to the Moygota gorge, then a 4-hour ascent up the gorge to the base camp at the forest boundary. From the base camp at the forest boundary:
• 2 hours up the gorge to the first lake at the fork in the gorge.
• The ridge dividing the upper reaches of the gorge is the southern ridge to Mt. Moygota.

Passport

1. Class of ascent
2. Region of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference average steepness
6. Pitons hammered for belay
7. Number of travel hours
8. Overnights

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SVERDLOVSK VIA THE "1000 LETIYA GORODA BRESTA" ROUTE ALONG THE CENTRAL WESTERN COUNTERFORT, CATEGORY 3B, BY THE TEAM: BREST REGIONAL PUBLIC ASSOCIATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING "VERSHINA" FOR THE PERIOD FROM JUNE 26, 2019 TO JUNE 26, 2019

I. Climbing Report

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Dedushko Nikita Gennadyevich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Panova Alyona Mikhailovna, Candidate Master of Sports, Marchuk Nikita Ivanovich, 3rd sports rank, Andreev Grigory Alekseyevich, 3rd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Dedushko Nikita Gennadyevich

Ascent Passport

Area — Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge Peak — Sever 2826 m. GPS coordinates — 51°54′35.76″N 102°0′3.11″E Route:

• Via the Southeast ridge, proposed category 2B. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Route description:
• Height difference 320 m.
• Route length approximately 400 m.
• Average steepness of the route 52°.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Leisure and Alpinism Gory Baikala"

Report on the First Ascent

To v. Sibir' 2870 m via the Eastern ridge. Approximately 2A category of difficulty.

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.2.
2. Sibir' 2870 m (summit coordinates: 51°54′48.53″N, 102°10′13.40″E) via the Eastern ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 2A first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — rocky.
5. Route elevation gain: 324 m. Route length: 460 m.

Primorskaya Federation of Alpinism and Mountaineering

Report on the First Ascent

To the peak Sibir 2870 m via the Center of the North Face. Approximately 5A category of difficulty.

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Rubtsov Vasily Alexandrovich – 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Shatalov Nikita Andreevich – 1st sports rank Kupchik Polina Valerievna – 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of Coach	none

Peak KhFTI-80 via the S ridge. Ovcharenko V.D. Elbrus E ridge # 2.4

Report

On the first ascent of Peak KhFTI-80 via the southern ridge from Assol Pass

Team of climbers from the National Science Center "Kharkov Institute of Physics and Technology"

2009

Passport

1. Elbrus region, Irik-Chat gorge, # 2.4
2. Peak KhFTI-80, height 3760 m; via the southern ridge from Assol Pass; coordinates of the summit: 43°19′16″ ± 10″ N, 42°32′37″ ± 10″ E.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.