ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Chach-khokh, category 2B complexity (height 4107 m) via the eastern ridge, approved on 17/2-67. The summit is located in the watershed ridge (between the basins of the Genal-don and Chach-khi rivers), connecting the Kazbek plateau to the south with the peak Iriston and further to the north with S. and Y. Kaidzhany. The summit has been visited repeatedly by mountaineering groups. All ascents were made from the Chach valley. The route is classified.

Day 1

The group travels by car along the VGD to the village of Gvileti, from where it is no more than 1 hour's walk along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kebati and Chach-khi rivers. After crossing the Kebati River and then the Chach-khi River at their confluence, the group heads along a trail to the right (Chach) valley. The trail winds up the slope and leads to the first "gates" of the Chach valley (a height difference of about 300-400 m). Next, it is necessary to go up to the right. Overcoming the "ram's foreheads of the gates" along one of the shelves that divides them, you should climb up the grassy slope to a group of trees, from which a well-trodden trail begins again. Follow the trail into a wide couloir, cross a stream, after which the trail turns sharply to the right under the rocks. Following along them, it will lead to a shoulder forming the first "gates" of the valley. It takes about 1.5 hours to walk from the confluence of the rivers to the pass point of the first "gates". The "ram's foreheads" must be passed with caution and gymnastic belay.

REGIONAL PUBLIC ORGANIZATION "FEDERATION OF ALPINISM OF MOSCOW REGION"

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2024 year

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent made by the team of GK UAL Moscow Region – Perm Krai to the summit of Tsey-Loam (Kyazi), 3171 m via the left part of the SE wall (K. Dorro's route), 6A category of complexity, from 04.06.2024 to 04.06.2024 Cherepovets 2024 ASCENT DOCUMENT | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Chikin Artem Borisovich (CMS) |

2.11.11

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: first ascent.
2. Area: East Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, south of Shahdag and Erydag peaks.
3. Peak: Tfan, 4191 m, via the south ridge, combined.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 1B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain from Kutkashen town (1000 m) is 3200 m, from the base camp at Gotur pass (3150 m) is 1040 m, average slope is 20°, about 400 m at 35–45°, category 1B — about 300 m, category 2A — 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: 2/0, 6 pieces required for a team.

Characteristics of the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes, geographical location.

The Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes includes the highest volcanoes of Kamchatka and the most powerful glaciers of Erman and Bogdanovich. The most significant volcanoes of the group:

• The highest and most active volcano is Klyuchevskaya Sopka.
• The most technically challenging is the Kamien volcano.
• The largest in terms of glaciation area with a powerful ice dome is Plosky Dalniy (Ushkovsky) volcano. Its crater, with a depth of over 200 m, is filled with ice. Inside the crater, there is an ice cave approximately 1000 m long. The Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes is located in the center of Kamchatka, 500 km from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. The nearest settlements are Kozyrevsk and Klyuchi, located 60 and 40 km away. However, there are no roads to the volcanoes even from these settlements. By a high-clearance vehicle, one can only reach the forest zone boundary; beyond that, the journey continues on foot. Approaches to the start of the routes take 2 to 4 days. The only means that allows quick access to the foot of the volcanoes remains the helicopter. Many alpinist routes of 2A–4B category of difficulty have been traversed in this area.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Vanch.
3. Ascent route — Peak Kolesnik S.V. (height 5452 m above sea level) via the Southwest ridge.
4. Ascent characteristics: Height difference — from overnight stay (3900 m) to the summit — 1550 m. Average steepness — 55°. Length of the complex section — 500 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 20,

REPORT

on the ascent of Peak Kom. Academii (6439 m) via the SW wall, category 6B (second ascent) July 26 – August 4, 1979 Team of the Armed Forces of the USSR:

• Cherepov V.A. — leader
• Gaas A.V. — coach
• Gromko V.N.
• Egorov V.M.
• Zhak V.V.
• Maleev V.V.

Ascent Passport

I. High-altitude category 2. Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range 3. Peak Kommunizma via the southern ridge from Bivachny Glacier 4. Cat. diff. 5B 5. Elevation gain from camp I to the summit 3300 m length 12 km, average steepness 25–27° 6. Pitons left 2 7. Climbing hours 52, days 10 8. Campsites: 1 on a moraine

Dedicated to the 100th anniversary of V. I. Lenin's birth

Report

on the traverse: Peak 6200 – Peak E. Korzhenevskoi – Peak Chetyrekh, made by the team of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Education and Sports on July 28 – August 15, 1969, for the USSR Climbing Championship 1969 in the traverse category. The traversed peaks are located in the northwestern Pamir, in the Muk-su river basin. The most significant meridional ridge of the Pamir – the Academy of Sciences Range – branches out in its northern part. From Peak Akhmat Donish (6665 m) to the northwest, a powerful spur extends, bearing the peaks:

• Peak Chetyrekh (6380 m);
• Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m);
• Peak 6200. After Peak 6200, the spur sharply descends towards Muk-su.

N512 4.57 AKADEMIYA NAUK RANGE. PEAK 5429 M VIA THE EAST RIDGE (approximately category 4A) Team of the Ukrainian Republican Council of the SDSO "BUREVESTNIK" PAMIR 1981

Map of the ascent area

to p. 5429. M: 1 cm – 1 km

Description of the approach to the route

Peak 5429 m is located in a spur of the Peter the First Range, in the cirque of the southern part of the Ayu-Jilga glacier, between peak 4×6308 m on the left and p. 6215 m on the right. The length of the Ayu-Jilga glacier is about 9 km. It stretches from south to north and occupies an area of about 20 sq. km. The Ayu-Jilga river, flowing out of the glacier to the north, flows into the Muksu river, to which there are about 20 km along the Ayu-Jilga gorge. Ayu-Jilga is a rather full-flowing river, and it is not recommended to ford it; it is better to cross it on the glacier.

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.