Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay
3. Peak Admiralteets (5090 m) via the "Stolb" from the North
4. Complexity category: 6A
5. Route characteristics: route length — 750 m; average steepness of the route — 82°
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 120
   • bolt: 14

1. Class of technical ascents.
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Karavshin (Kara-su) valley
3. The summit of peak 4810 via the "mirror" of the western wall (Rusyayev's route).
4. Category of difficulty — 6B.
5. Height difference 1160 m, route length 1495 m, length of sections 5–6 c.t. 1220 m, average steepness 68°, average steepness of the wall part of the route 74°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Chocks | Bolt pitons | | :------: | :-------: | :--------: | | 55 / 12 | 156 / 24 | 1 / 0 |
7. Team's working hours — 61.5 hours, days — 5.5 days.

Via the North Ridge, Cat. 1B diff.

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20–25 minutes of walking, start ascending via a snowy couloir left of the rightmost buttress of the summit. Having ascended 80 m, move right onto the buttress and continue along it. The team moves simultaneously in rope teams across несложным засneженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks). Before reaching the North Ridge, leave the buttress to the right and exit onto the snowy slope, bypassing the "gendarme". The ascent to the ridge takes 1.5–2 hours from the start of the climb. Once on the North Ridge, move right in rope teams. After 150 m of simultaneous movement on dense névé, you will come to a small dip in the ridge — a 4 m wall. Continue with alternate protection for 120 m. There are snowy cornices on the right side of the ridge in places. Organize protection using rock projections. Then, proceed 100 m across несложным заснеженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks) to reach the summit. The summit is a small rocky area. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route with rappel lines hung practically along the entire ridge section of the route:

• Descending from the summit along the ridge takes 40–50 minutes.
• Descending from the ridge along the buttress takes 20 minutes. Total ascent time is 5–6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

The main hazard for climbers are the snowy cornices along the 250 m long snowy ridge. When descending from the ridge via the couloir and potentially cutting into the snowy slope, beware of:

• avalanches.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Gear Usage and Route Specifics

Report

On the ascent of Amin Brakk peak, 5850 m, via the west face, Karakoram. June 15 – July 30, 2004, cat. diff. 6B Russian Championship in the high-altitude technical class

• Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation
• Coach: Yu.P. Tinin
• Leader: V.V. Rozov
• Moscow 2004

Passport

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship. Technical Climbing Category 2018

Report

on the ascent of Petit Dru (3733 m) via the "American Diretissima" route, 6A category (S. Timofeev, 1994) (west face, variant of the "American Direct" route, Royal Robbins and Gary Hemming, 1962) by the "Polytechnic" climbing team from August 4, 2018, to August 10, 2018 Team coach: V.A. Molodozhen Team leader: A.O. Panov Team members:

• O.I. Lukashenko
• S.A. Seryanov St. Petersburg 2018

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A

The start of the route is marked with the number "2" at the base of the wall in blue paint. The route consists of four short ropes, passes through the left part of the wall, and ends with a large chimney. An old climbing route 2A, fully equipped with fixed protection. It can be considered as a multipitch. Descent rings are present at the stations. Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A F6a Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A F6a (blue line on the photo, the first on the left)

Technical description of the route:

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Sofia via the northwest slope and west ridge, category 2A complexity, by the team of SAC "Maximum", August 3, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Type of ascent — snow and ice.
2. Region of ascent, ridge — Main Caucasian Ridge from Ortokare peak to Gestola peak, North spur.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mizhirgi Eastern, 4918 m, via the northern wall, via "cascades" (Shevchenko route).
4. Anticipated difficulty category 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1400 m, average steepness — 49°, length of 5B difficulty sections — 657 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for rock protection — 18, ice screws — 89, chocks — 16.
7. Number of climbing hours — 29.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: 2 bivouacs.
9. Group composition: Ovsyannikov Yu.N., Master of Sports — leader, Zhuravlev V.V., Candidate for Master of Sports — participant, Karataev V.A., Candidate for Master of Sports — participant, Lebedev V.G., Candidate for Master of Sports — participant.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Technical climbing category
2. Central Caucasus, Krumkol gorge
3. Traverse of Tikhonov Peak — Koshtantau with ascent to Tikhonov Peak via the South Face
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent of Tikhonov Peak South Face
5. Total elevation gain: 1595 m, total distance: 2310 m, including wall section: 1070 m elevation gain, 1255 m distance. Total distance of 5–6 category sections: 870 m, including 680 m on the wall section, of which 120 m are category 6. Average steepness of the wall section: 60°
6. Total pitons used:

   Piton type	Rock	Chocks	Ice screws	Bolts
   	118	69	34	-

27

USSR Climbing Federation

XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship, Rock Climbing Category