9. Tsukhgar­ty via the South­ern Counter­fort and East­ern Ridge (com­bi­ned route, 2A cat. dif., Fig. 2, 4). From the “Nakhashbi­ta” meadow (group of 4–8 peo­ple) up­wards to the left (north-east) along grassy slopes, then scree to the South­ern Tsukhgar­ty glacier, which flows down from the Tsukhgar­ty massif be­tween its South­ern Ridge and South­ern Counter­fort. From here, straight up the snow slope with sim­ple rock out­crops (pro­tec­tion) of the South­ern Tsukhgar­ty glacier. In the up­per part of the glacier, where it widens, turn right and:

• via sim­ple rock out­crops, al­ter­nat­ing with ice and snow slopes (pro­tec­tion)
• then via sim­ple rocks and scree as­cend to the South­ern Counter­fort. Here, turn left and via sim­ple rocks and scree of the long South­ern Counter­fort

Fig. 5 11. Peak Shevchenko (4161 m) via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4-12 people), approach the talus, possibly snow-covered slopes descending west from the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From here, ascend via:

• snow-covered talus,
• a snowy slope,
• simple, sometimes steep, heavily damaged rocks with small walls of the Western counterfort of the North Ridge,
• a snowy slope (possible rockfall, insurance) — to the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 3-4 hours. Here, turn right and along the heavily damaged, long, simple snow-covered rocky North Ridge (insurance), then along the snowy ridge and a 150-meter ice-snow ascent, climb to the North Tower. From the North Tower, a 45-50 m ascent on simple blocky rocks leads to Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 6-8 hours.

V. Adai — Hoh via Eastern Wall, cat. 4A

• R0–R3 120 m 35° 2+
• R3 40 m 40° 3
• R4 60 m 50° 4
• R5–R7 140 m 50° 3+
• R7 70 m 55° 4+
• R8–R10 120 m 45° 3+
• R10 180 m 35°–40° 3+

130. Eastern Bokos via the South slope (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 29). The path from the village of Dzinaga or from the tourist center of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau near the western saddle of Shovi - Karaugom pass is described in route 83. From the bivouac, across the snowy plateau of the Western branch (closed crevasses) and slope, exit to the left side of the South ridge (cornice) of the Eastern Bokos peak. Without reaching the ridge, along the snowy slope on the left side of the South ridge, gradually increasing in steepness, move left into the second snowy couloir. Then:

• Along the steep snowy slope of the narrowing couloir, 350-400 m left - upwards (avalanche risk) to its end.

Fig. 22 92. Vo­lo­ga­ta (4396 m) via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 22). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district or from the settlement of Dzi­nag (group of 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bi­vu­ach­naya Peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Eastern branch of the plateau (closed crevasses) and approach the right side of the wide snowy slope of the saddle connecting Vo­lo­ga­ta with the Ka­ra­u­g­om massif. From the plateau, having passed along the snowy bridge of the bergschrund, on the right side of the gently sloping

DUPLICATE NORTH PEAK B

VIA EAST RIDGE R15: 20 m 40° 3 RIDGE R14–R15: 80 m 80° 5 WALL R13–R14: 80 m 60° 4 RIDGE R12–R13: 150 m 70° 1 RIDGE, ICE R11–R12: 100 m 70° 4 RIDGE R10–R11: 60 m 30° 3 RIDGE R9–R10: 50 m 80° 5 WALL

173. Zaromag (4203 m) from the south (the route is combined, category 2B). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-20 people) to the Skazsky pass is described in route 166. On the pass, turn left and follow the simple, then moderately difficult rocks of the saddle ridge, alternating with snowy sections, to the left side of the Skazsky pass - "False pass". It is possible to descend from the pass directly along the couloir, but it is prone to rockfall. Here, turn right. Descend along a wide scree, and lower down, snowy couloir to a small South-Skazsky glacier in the Zaromag gorge. From here:

• to the right - down
• to the "Green" areas on the grassy hill of the left-bank moraine not far from the Zaromag glacier, under the southern slopes of Aday peak.

VTSPS Shoulder West Ridge 200 m snow slope 2 Hanging Glacier Drop 150–200 m 45°–50° 3–4 Big Wall 70 m 4 Slab-wall 40 m 4 Ridge 3–4

South-east, 1B cat.

From Dombai clearing or h/c "Alibek" along the trail and grassy slopes and talus exit under Khrustalny pass, traverse steep spurs of the eastern ridge of Semenov-Bashi peak. Place for a bivouac — 3–4 hours. From the bivouac:

• Along a gentle slope in the direction of Khrustalny pass and, 100–150 m before the pass, left up a branched couloir.
• Up the couloir to the eastern ridge. Rockfall hazard!
• Then left along the ridge to the summit. Gendarmes are bypassed mainly on the right, downhill.
• At the beginning of summer — snow cornices on the north.