1. Zaromag (4203 m) from the south (the route is combined, category 2B).

The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-20 people) to the Skazsky pass is described in route 166.

On the pass, turn left and follow the simple, then moderately difficult rocks of the saddle ridge, alternating with snowy sections, to the left side of the Skazsky pass - "False pass".

It is possible to descend from the pass directly along the couloir, but it is prone to rockfall. Here, turn right. Descend along a wide scree, and lower down, snowy couloir to a small South-Skazsky glacier in the Zaromag gorge.

From here:

  • to the right - down
  • to the "Green" areas on the grassy hill of the left-bank moraine not far from the Zaromag glacier, under the southern slopes of Aday peak.

From the Zaromag settlement, ascend along the trail through the alpine meadows on the right bank of the Zaromag river. Having passed a small right lateral gorge, Lagai, ford a small right tributary and approach the "ram's foreheads". Then move up along the Zaromag stream along the screes, then along a wide gully and the right-bank moraine to the "Green" areas. This is the initial bivouac.

From the "Green" areas, ascend along the right-bank moraine of the Zaromag glacier (the path along the large scree in the gully to the right of the moraine is dangerous due to rockfall from the slopes of Aday peak). At the most convenient point, leave the moraine to the left onto the Zaromag glacier, cross it, and on the left side, approach a wide snowy couloir descending from the southeast ridge of Zaromag peak.

From the glacier, having overcome the bergschrund along a snow bridge, ascend along the wide snowy slope of the couloir with rocky outcrops (avalanches and rockfall are possible). Then move to the rocks of the counterfort and ascend along simple steep, destroyed rocks (belay) to the summit of Zaromag.

The ascent to the summit along the snowy dome is avalanche-prone.

From the "Green" areas, 4-6 hours.

Descent follows the ascent route.

Source: Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Sources

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