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First ascent to the summit Yin-Yang (4935 m) by NW wall in Zaalayskiy ridge, 2A category of complexity, ice-snow route.

Ascent Log

  1. Zaalaysky Ridge, Pravy Kichkesu glacier, TurkVO area, section 4.4/2008
  2. In-Yan Peak (our name), 4935 m, via NW wall.
  3. Proposed category: 2A, first ascent.
  4. Snow and ice route.
  5. Height difference: 400 m. Distance: 600 m. Average slope of the main part of the route: 45°.
  6. No equipment left behind.
  7. Climbing time: 3 hours.
  8. Leader: Koshelenko Yu. — Master of Sports.
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Description of the first ascent to the summit 5280 m (N. Kuznetsov Peak) in the Trans-Alai Range, the route's category of difficulty, details of passing gendarmes and the technically difficult final section.

Description

First ascent to the summit 5280 m (Peak N. Kuznetsova) The summit 5280 m is located in the northern spur of the Trans-Alay range between the summits:

  • to the south — Peak Metallurgov Urala, 5150 m
  • to the north — Peak Sverdlova The route begins from the intermediate camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk jubilee expedition. The 3800 m camp is located on an old grassy moraine near a small lake in the upper reaches of the Kок-knik valley. Directly from the 3800 m camp begins:
  • a steep fine scree;
  • easy, crumbling rocks. On the way, there are several gendarmes with very crumbling rocks of medium difficulty:
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Ascent of Lenin Peak via the south-east ridge of the south-eastern wall from Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier, category 5B.

1. Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Zaalai Range (North Pamir). Gorge: Sauksay Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.4
  2. Peak name: Lenin Peak. Route name: along the rib of the southern edge of the southeastern wall from the Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier.
  3. Proposed – 5B category of difficulty.
  4. Route type: snow-ice.
  5. Height difference of the route: 1709 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3911 m.
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Description of the first ascent of Musа Dzhalil Peak via the eastern ridge in the Lenin Peak area in 1970.

Description

First ascent of Musa Jalil Peak, category 38, via the eastern ridge by the sports group of the 3rd Anniversary Alpinada of the Tatar ASSR in the Lenin Peak area. Group composition:

  1. Yagafarov V.P.
  2. Krylov V.N.
  3. Faseev K.S.
  4. Penkov G.A.
  5. Yagafarov I.K.
  6. Labutina T.E.
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Report on the ascent via a new Category IIIB route on the north face of Musa Dzhaliľ Peak (4800 m) in the Pamir Mountains.

Recreational Climbing in Achik-Tash. Peak Musa Dzhalil via the North Face.

Alpinism, Report, Pamir By khomenyuk, Today at 15:07 On August 31, 2017, we successfully completed a first ascent via the north face of Peak Musa Dzhalil (4800 m, according to the classifier). From the Ak-Sai Travel base camp in Achik-Tash, we reached the summit and returned in ten and a half hours. We thoroughly enjoyed the route. In anticipation of the new season, I'm sharing a detailed description of the route.

Ascent Details

  1. Pamir, Trans-Alay Range, Achik-Tash valley, category 4.4 according to the 2017 classification table.
  2. Peak Musa Dzhalil, 4800 m, via the North face.
  3. Proposed category — 3B, first ascent.
  4. Route type: ice and snow.
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Report on the first ascent by the ITMO team to the summit 4729 via the Western ridge of the North wall, difficulty category 2B, Pamir-Alay, Achik-Tash gorge.

Report on the First Ascent by the ITMO Sports Club Team to the Summit 4729 (Peak ITMO University — new name) via the Western Ridge of the North Wall.

Estimated difficulty 2B, Saint Petersburg, September 2017

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent Area Pamir-Alay, Achik-Tash gorge
  2. Summit 4729
  3. Route
  4. Ascent Class
  5. Height Difference:
  6. Team
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First ascent description of an unnamed peak 4825 m (Aleksey Didurov peak) by the North wall and North-east ridge in the Pamir, grade 3B complexity.

Ascent Passport

  1. Pamir, Trans-Alay Range, Achik-Tash gorge, category 4.4 according to the 2017 classification table.
  2. Unnamed peak 4825 m, proposed name — Aleksey Didurov Peak, named after the famous Russian poet, via the North face and North-East ridge. Peak coordinates: 39.454557 72.957681, GPS altitude 4834 m. No cairn or note was found on the summit. Information about previous ascents is not available.
  3. Proposed category — 3B, first ascent.
  4. Route type: ice and snow.
  5. Route elevation gain: 530 m according to GPS. Route length: 850 m. Section lengths:
    • Category V — 0 m.
    • Category VI — 0 m.
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Pamir, Zaalai Range, Musi Jililya peak, 4729 m, first ascent of route 4A-4B cat. diff., snow-ice route.

Pamir. Trans-Alai ridge. Peak Musa Dzhaliľ 4729. Assumed category 4A–4B, first ascent of the route. The character of the route is snow-ice. Route length — 1400 m. Difficulty sections:

  • Cat. 1 — 400 m
  • Cat. 2 — 100 m
  • Cat. 3 — 600 m
  • Cat. 4 — 200 m
  • Cat. 5 — 50 m
  • Cat. 5+ — 50 m Average slope of the main part — 50°. Pitons left on the route — 0. Ice screws used — 80. Total amount of technical climbing aids used — 0. Total climbing time — 6 h 30 min (1 day without overnight stay).
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Ascent of Evgenia Medvedeva Peak via SE ridge with first ascent of a series of complex traverses.

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Report on the first ascent to the summit Sovetsky Voyn via route 3A category of complexity on the North wall.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF Soviet VoIN PEAK VIA THE ROUTE OF 3A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE FRI-LINE TEAM FROM PYATIGORSK ON SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderKonstantinov G.A. 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsPopov M.L. CMS, Semenova O.A. 1st sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachMotienko N.I. CMS
1.4OrganizationFri-line MAC
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1RegionCaucasus, Kabardino-Balkaria
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