1. Climbing Passport

1. Area: Yazgulemsky Ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Grumm-Grzhimailo Glacier Section number according to the 1999 classification table — 4.12
2. Name of the peak: Peak Revolyutsii. Name of the route: via the north-eastern slope from Grumm-Grzhimailo Glacier (via the plateau of Vertikal Pass).
3. Proposed category — 5A cat. diff.
4. Character of the route: Ice and snow

Fig. 11

Peak Jambula (4150 m) Ascent to peak Jambula with ascent from the northwest, route 2B cat. sl. (fig. 14). From the bivouac at the lake under the tongue of the North TEU glacier, move to the South TEU glacier, bypassing the ridge coming from the Syputchaya peak. Ascend to the col between the peaks TEU and Jambula via the South TEU glacier. Move along the glacier in teams along the median moraine. Bypass the crevasse zone from the left. The ascent to the col is via a snowy slope with a steepness of 30–35°, then via scree and heavily destroyed rocks. From the col, go along the snowy ridge to the 1st gendarme, which is taken head-on. Descent to the 2nd gendarme is via heavily destroyed rocks and snow. The 2nd gendarme is bypassed from the left along a slope with a steepness of 60°. Careful belaying through an ice axe is necessary. The 3rd gendarme is also bypassed from the left along a snowy-icy slope, closer to the rocks. Here, piton belaying is necessary (2–3 pitons), sometimes step chiseling. The 4th gendarme is bypassed from the left along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 30°. Here, alternate belaying through an ice axe is necessary. The route continues along an icy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then via destroyed rocks and scree reaches the summit. From the bivouac to the summit is 5–6 hours of walking. The summit consists of two elevations. The cairn is on the northwestern one. Descent is along the northeastern ridge to the South TEU glacier along a slope with a steepness of up to 45° with protruding large stones. Careful belaying is necessary. "Sheep's foreheads" are bypassed from the right. Go carefully: it is necessary to take into account the avalanche danger. The descent to the South TEU glacier goes along a snowy slope and takes about 2 hours.

DESCRIPTION

7.2.54

Traversing peak "Zharsay" with ascent via the north-eastern ridge from Zharsay glacier and descent via the north-western ridge to "Bezymyannyy" pass. The "Zharsay" peak is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau in the south-eastern direction from the "Metallurg" peak. The height of the peak is 4750 m (rao No. 1).

Day 1

The path from "Talgar" camp goes along a steep grassy slope to the east to the training rocks. Further, crossing the moraine of "Ozerny" glacier, we exit to its right (orographic) part, and the movement goes up along a clearly marked trail to a wide couloir (with reddish rock) descending from "Kolokolnikov" peak. At this point, we turn to the right and exit to "Ozerny" glacier and, moving along its middle part, approach the foot of "Taverentaau" pass. Time from the camp to the foot of the pass is 3.5–4 hours. The ascent to the pass goes along a wide, steep couloir covered with small and medium talus. In the middle and upper part of the couloir, the talus is partially covered with snow. The group used snowfields for the ascent. The ascent to the pass takes 2–2.5 hours. On the pass, the group left a note, the pass category is 2A.

Тraverse of the entire massif from Iiyintau to Peak Gorin, route 5B cat. diff. (fig. 43, 43a). If the approach starts from the Talgar alpine camp, go up the Middle Talgar gorge, turn in the direction of the Kopr glacier (see road sign). Approach to the Kopr glacier via ancient moraines:

• terminal,
• then lateral, right. The trail is clearly visible. Go to Rakhimov's bivouac at the tongue of the glacier. Here are well-prepared places for a tent. From the camp to Rakhimov's bivouac - 4 hours walk. From the bivouac in the eastern direction, along the left part of the glacier along the ridge of the Sportivnaya peak, to the bergschrund. The bergschrund is bypassed on the left or crossed via a snow bridge. Turn right, go along the bergschrund to the first destroyed rocks. Here is the so-called Kel's tur. The height is gained gradually. From here, diagonally ascent along the ice-snow slope (steepness up to 50°). Go to a not very high, heavily destroyed ridge. At the top, beyond the end of the ridge, there is a section of ice 15-20 m. Go on crampons with hook belay (cautiously!). Behind it is a section of heavily destroyed rocks, which turn into a rocky ridge, interspersed with snowy sections. Behind this ridge, turn left onto a snowfield and exit onto the ridge of the Kopr peak. From the ice section, there is a second option for passing this segment - exit left from the rocks up the snowfield to the ridge of the Kopr peak. Here, turn right. After 50-60 m:
• Priyut Pyati (Five Shelter) at the rocks

Fig. 36 There are no sites on this section. After a few meters of ascent from the place where the backpacks are pulled out, it is necessary to use the ladders again. Special attention should be paid to hammering in pitons: the rocks are brittle! Further, along steep slabs to the exfoliated rock in front of a large snowy shelf. To reach the shelf, move to the right into a steep ice gully. Climb 2 meters up along it and exit onto the shelf. Moving along the shelf to the left, continue moving up along sheer complex rocks, and then, traversing to the right, approach a steep (70°) narrow ice gully. Cross the gully at the point where a large rock protrudes in the middle, and move to the right narrow rocky islet separating the gully from the snowy slope. From this islet, ascend up the steep (60°) icy slope. For about six meters, the ascent involves chopping steps. The belay is piton. Move left from the piton - upwards in the direction of the beginning of the snow ridge's ascent. On the ridge, the belay is through an ice axe. To the left of the ridge, on the rocks, there is a good bivouac site. From the initial bivouac to here, it takes 12-13 hours of walking.

Here, an overnight stay is possible: there is water available in mid-summer. The ascent to the ridge begins after circumventing the rocks along the edge of the snow on the right side, in the lower part of the gendarme — via broken rocks. Proceed in the direction of the saddle between the gendarme and the second part of the ridge ascent. After reaching the saddle, move slightly to the left. Belay is via pitons; piton placement is necessary for belaying and for artificial anchors. Further along the ridge:

• monolithic rock sections are circumvented on the left
• via loose rocks — ascent to the summit of Жанатау. Descent from the summit towards the summit of Ленинградец is initially via rocks, then via a steep snowy section leading to a snow platform in front of the monolithic rock Зуб, rising before the second pass. Descend to the foot

1. Ascent via the couloir and the southeastern ridge.
2. Ascent via the northwestern ridge.
3. Ascent via the northern wall. Ascent to the summit of Karaulchitaus via the couloir and the southeastern ridge, category 1B difficulty route (fig. 32). The Karaulchitaus summit is located in a lateral spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau range, branching off from the Aktau summit to the northwest and bearing the same name. The Karaulchitaus summit is the extreme northwestern point of this spur. The path to the summit from the "Talgar" mountaineering camp goes along the trail through the gorge. Rounding the foot of Karaulchitaus from the west, move to the tongue of the Shokalsky glacier, then turn left and ascend the moraines of the Salanov glacier. After 4-5 hours of walking from the camp, a horizontal sandy area, convenient for a bivouac, is reached. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac on the Sandy area begins along the talus, then goes through the couloir leading to the saddle between the Karaulchitaus and Chekist summits. The ascent through the couloir, depending on the time of season, is either on ice covered with snow or on talus, sometimes icy, sometimes snow-covered. Steepness is 30-35°. From the saddle, turn left and move along the ridge with drops of no more than 30° steepness. After 30-40 minutes of movement along the ridge, the summit is reached. Descent is via the ascent route. The total ascent time from the overnight stay on the Sandy area is 5-6 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

168

Kazakh Republican Climbers' Club

Description of the ascent to the peak named after Sarym Kuderin

Alma-Ata, 1966 The Sarym Kuderin peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the area of the Gorodetsky Glacier northeast of the Legostaev peak. The peak is double-headed. The eastern dome is named Sarym Kuderin peak. The height of the peak is 4300 m above sea level. To the north-northwest, a hanging glacier descends. The north buttress is a rocky part. The steepness of the rocks is up to 55–65°. The rocks are destroyed. The snow line starts from the north at a height of 3500–3600 m. To the south, there are snowy slopes, to the east - a ridge to a nameless peak with cornices. The ascent in winter conditions was made at the beginning of December 1964 by a group of the "Burevestnik" sports society. Approaches:

• From the Alma-Ata lake along the trail.
• In the area of alpine meadows, the trail is snowed in.

M26. Kirpich from Dalar Pass

(combined route, 1B category of complexity, first ascent by M. Lepnev, 1937) Approach the slopes of Dalar Pass via the Zapadny Dalar Glacier. Ascend to the pass via a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which can be traversed using a bridge or a gap. From the bivouac on the Dalar plateau — 2–4 hours, depending on the condition of the bergschrund. From the pass, head right along the long snowy ridge, sometimes along the boundary between snow and rocks, to a large snowy rise on the ridge. At the top of the rise, on the rocks, there is a large geodetic cairn. From here, traverse to the left side of the ridge and approach a snow-ice funnel. Do not ascend to its upper edge facing the Myrdy Glacier due to cornices! Cross the funnel in the middle of its slope or along the bottom if it is free of snow. Beyond the funnel, ascend a steep snowy or icy slope, leaving vertically standing gray rock blocks on the left, to a snowy ridge, which leads to the snowy-scree dome of the summit. From the pass — 3 hours. The descent follows the ascent route until the pass and takes 2 hours. To v. Maly Dalar Dalar Pass 26 Kirpich