1. Class of technical ascents.
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Karavshin (Kara-su) valley
3. The summit of peak 4810 via the "mirror" of the western wall (Rusyayev's route).
4. Category of difficulty — 6B.
5. Height difference 1160 m, route length 1495 m, length of sections 5–6 c.t. 1220 m, average steepness 68°, average steepness of the wall part of the route 74°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Chocks | Bolt pitons | | :------: | :-------: | :--------: | | 55 / 12 | 156 / 24 | 1 / 0 |
7. Team's working hours — 61.5 hours, days — 5.5 days.

Via the North Ridge, Cat. 1B diff.

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20–25 minutes of walking, start ascending via a snowy couloir left of the rightmost buttress of the summit. Having ascended 80 m, move right onto the buttress and continue along it. The team moves simultaneously in rope teams across несложным засneженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks). Before reaching the North Ridge, leave the buttress to the right and exit onto the snowy slope, bypassing the "gendarme". The ascent to the ridge takes 1.5–2 hours from the start of the climb. Once on the North Ridge, move right in rope teams. After 150 m of simultaneous movement on dense névé, you will come to a small dip in the ridge — a 4 m wall. Continue with alternate protection for 120 m. There are snowy cornices on the right side of the ridge in places. Organize protection using rock projections. Then, proceed 100 m across несложным заснеженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks) to reach the summit. The summit is a small rocky area. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route with rappel lines hung practically along the entire ridge section of the route:

• Descending from the summit along the ridge takes 40–50 minutes.
• Descending from the ridge along the buttress takes 20 minutes. Total ascent time is 5–6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

The main hazard for climbers are the snowy cornices along the 250 m long snowy ridge. When descending from the ridge via the couloir and potentially cutting into the snowy slope, beware of:

• avalanches.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Gear Usage and Route Specifics

Report

On the ascent of Amin Brakk peak, 5850 m, via the west face, Karakoram. June 15 – July 30, 2004, cat. diff. 6B Russian Championship in the high-altitude technical class

• Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation
• Coach: Yu.P. Tinin
• Leader: V.V. Rozov
• Moscow 2004

Passport

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship. Technical Climbing Category 2018

Report

on the ascent of Petit Dru (3733 m) via the "American Diretissima" route, 6A category (S. Timofeev, 1994) (west face, variant of the "American Direct" route, Royal Robbins and Gary Hemming, 1962) by the "Polytechnic" climbing team from August 4, 2018, to August 10, 2018 Team coach: V.A. Molodozhen Team leader: A.O. Panov Team members:

• O.I. Lukashenko
• S.A. Seryanov St. Petersburg 2018

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A

The start of the route is marked with the number "2" at the base of the wall in blue paint. The route consists of four short ropes, passes through the left part of the wall, and ends with a large chimney. An old climbing route 2A, fully equipped with fixed protection. It can be considered as a multipitch. Descent rings are present at the stations. Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A F6a Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A F6a (blue line on the photo, the first on the left)

Technical description of the route:

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Sofia via the northwest slope and west ridge, category 2A complexity, by the team of SAC "Maximum", August 3, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

27

USSR Climbing Federation

XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship, Rock Climbing Category

1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Uzunkol alpine camp.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate data) — Bolshoy Nakhar peak (3780 m), complexity approximately 6th category of difficulty — via the right part of the northwest wall.
4. Climbing characteristics: — route length — 1310 m. — height difference — 1000 m. — average steepness — 78°. — length of complex sections — 1095 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 185 ice — 20 into the rock

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical

2. Region — Western Caucasus

3. Route — Bolshoy Nakhara via 6B category route, 3780 m.

4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1080 m.

• Average steepness: 81°
• Length of complex section: 760 m.

5. Pitons hammered: rock

• 315
• Ice: 0

1. Rock climbing category
2. Western Caucasus, Nakhar gorge
3. Bolshoi Nakhar via the northeast wall
4. Proposed category: 6th category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference — 930 m, length — 1320 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 730 m Average steepness of main sections 81° (2950–3500), including 6th category of complexity:

• 86°, 60 m (3010–3050);
• 88°, 185 m (3070–3200);
• 90°, 10 m (3230–3240);