Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Alaysky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 5027 (p. Commune) via the south-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: combined elevation gain, 1000 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 30 m; average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial holds on:
   • rock — 7;
   • ice — 3;
   • bolted — none.

Description of the First Ascent to the Peak

of Jaan Kreuks (4634 m) via Route 4B cat. diff.

(Eastern Ridge) on July 20–21, 1977

1. The approach from the base camp (helicopter pad at the mouth of the Kemisdykty River) to the Allaudin Glacier takes 3.5 hours. Crossing the glacier (open by the end of July) and ascending the right slope of the glacier's flank—the foot of Jaan Kreuks Peak—takes 1.5 hours. It is advisable to stop for the night here to start the route early in the morning. In the evening, rocks occasionally fall from the couloir to the right of the route.
2. Start the route no later than 7:00 AM. Overcoming the R1–R2 section does not require special techniques, but traversing the ice slope towards the steep rocky buttress as you approach the bergschrund requires crampons (one pair per rope team) and ice screws. Exiting the bergschrund is challenging and requires step-cutting with piton belay. This is crucial as climbers in a team of two were carrying backpacks. Almost immediately after exiting the bergschrund, continue traversing the slope with a 60–70 % gradient, cutting steps in a closed stance with the left hand. The second climber in the team monitors the slope.
3. Section R3–R4. The ascent onto the steep buttress is challenging. Caution is required due to steep, inclined slabs with unstable holds. Pitons are used—vertical, horizontal, and channel-type. There is a small platform for organizing a belay and pulling up backpacks. The direction is upwards and to the left.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — TECHNICAL
2. Ascent area — PAMIR-ALAY, ALAYSKY RANGE, KOK-SU VALLEY
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. YANA KREUSA, 4634 m, RIGHT EDGE OF THE SOUTHERN WALL CHIMNEY
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: the route is rocky, with an altitude difference of 850 m, wall section 485 m, total length 1230 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 400 m, 6th difficulty category — 52 m. Average steepness of the route — 50° — wall — 80°
6. Pitons used: rock — 78, ice — –, bolted — –, chocks — 12
7. Total climbing hours — 25 hours
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two bivouacs with lying positions: the first one on a meadow under the wall, the second on a ledge

The 4300 m peak (Malaia Ossonaly) is located in a spur branching off to the north from the Ossonaly peak. This peak is one of the most interesting objects for rock climbing in the Kok-Su area (Pamir-Alay). The most challenging routes can be laid out along its northeastern wall, which steeply drops to the glacier lying in the cirque of the Pravda Vostoka, Malenkiy Prints, and Ossonaly peaks. The wall is formed by fragile young marbles. Relatively destroyed rock sections alternate with large smoothed slabs. In the center of the wall, there is a huge hollow with a significantly overhanging cornice above it. Passing this section of the wall is only possible with the help of bolt hammers. The route chosen by the team passed to the left, along a part of the wall of the same steepness, which can be traversed by free climbing. The 4300 m peak is located near the road running along the Kok-Su River from the Alay hostel to the geologists' base. The journey from the Alay hostel to the bridge, from which the road leads to the trail heading to the overnight stays under the peak, takes 3 hours. The bridge is located 1 km after the confluence of the Kok-Su and Dzhugurtash rivers. The trail leads to a small waterfall, clearly visible from the road, and then brings you to the grassy slopes located directly under the 4300 m peak. Here, near the glacier tongue, from which a small river flows, there are convenient places for overnight stays. The journey along the trail from the road to the overnight stays takes 1 hour. The approach along the large talus from the overnight stays to the beginning of the route takes 20 minutes.

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Pamir, Pamir-Alay, Alay Range, Koksu valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pravda Vostoka, 4950 m, via the center of the Northeast face with an exit to the North counterfort.
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 970 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections — 760 m, average steepness — 55°.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for artificial climbing anchors: rock — 114, ice — 3, bolt —.
7. Number of climbing hours — 23.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, southern spurs of the Alai ridge, Levin's glacier
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 50 years of Uzbekistan, via the SE ridge, 4891 m
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections of category V difficulty — 430 m, average steepness — 40°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 49, ice — 3, bolted — none
7. Number of climbing hours — 11.5
8. Number of nights on the route: the route was completed without overnight stays, there are places on the route for organizing semi-reclined overnight stays
9. Full name of participants, their qualification:

REPORT

Salt Route

On the ascent of Peak 4770 m via the East Ridge, category 3A complexity (ориентировочно). First ascent. Leader: Simakov N.V.

Brief description of the approach to the route

The base camp is located in the Koksu gorge, at the confluence of the Koksu and Koshkasu rivers, on the Koshdeba clearing. From the base camp:

• go up the Koshkasu river along the left bank (1 hour);
• then go along the dry stream bed (the western ridge of Peak 4770 m remains on the left side), which continues along the moraine (1.5 hours). The route begins at the base of the scree couloir descending from the East Ridge of Peak 4770 m.

Ascent Log

To the summit of Peak Solieva (4770 m) via the Northwest Ridge.

1. Ascent category: technical.
2. Ascent area: Alai Range, Kok-Su gorge.
3. Peak: Peak Solieva (4770 m) via the Northwest Ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 750 m; section lengths: 5th cat. diff. – 30 m,

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay. Alay Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Skalny, 4480 m via the Southwest wall, North ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m. average steepness — 35–40°, length of sections:
   • I — 800 m.
   • II — 680 m.
   • III — 515 m.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.