Russian Mountaineering Championship 2024. High-Technical Class

Report on the Ascent of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the Central Counterfort of the Southwest Wall, 6A cat. compl. (E. Poltavets) by the Voronezh Team from September 11 to 14, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Moscow Climbing Championship 2024

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Karakaya via the Central Counterfort of the Southwest Wall, 6A category of difficulty, by the team from Moscow from October 9 to October 13, 2024.

Semenov M. A. — Master of Sports Vvedenskaya V. V. — 1st sports category Spichka A. I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Alpine Club — "Mountain Madness"

Koshtan-Tau (5145 m), North Ridge, Cat. 4B

From the "3900" campsite, move in the direction of the upper plateau of the Kundryum-Mijirgi Glacier. The fourth stage of the icefall is climbed:

• near the rocks of the West Ridge of Kundryum-Mijirgi Peak (piton use required!)
• or through the center (crevasses!) of the icefall. Then, move left along the route with a slight ascent to reach the slopes of Ptitsa Peak. It is convenient to camp here (1.5–2 hours from the "3900" campsite). From the plateau, through a small bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the rocks at the lower part of Yuzhnaya Ptitsa Peak, left of a vaguely defined couloir. From here:
• ascend slabs (60 m)
• ascend an inclined ledge up to the right (80 m) to reach a rocky terrace. Then, make a short traverse left to the base of the couloir, which after 40 m will lead to a rocky platform on the left part of the snowy-icy slope. Along the wall rocks, on rocks and icy-snowy sections (piton use required!), ascend (120–140 m) to a rocky niche.

TO THE QUALIFICATION COMMISSION OF FASIL ST. PETERSBURG CHAMPIONSHIP OF ST. PETERSBURG ON ALPINISM 2011 DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO Mt. KOSHTAN-TAU (5151 m) VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE CENTRAL COULISSE OF THE NORTH FACE (A. SIMONIK) 6A cat. diff. THE ROUTE WAS CLIMBED BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ST. PETERSBURG Team captain — Alexander Gukov, team head coach — Yuri Saratov Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, Main Caucasian Range, route classification section № 2.5
2. Name of the peak: Koshtan-Tau, 5151 m, route name: via the North Face
3. Cat. diff.: 6A
4. Route type: combined

1. Technical category.
2. Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge.
3. V. Krumkol 4676 m, via the North Face.
4. Suggested route - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1585 m. length: 1956 m. length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 399 m, out of which 6 category - 113 m. Average steepness of the rock bastion 70°.
6. Pitons hammered in:

St. Petersburg Alpinism Federation

Russian Alpinism Championship. High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

St. Petersburg Combined Team Krumkol Peak, 4688 m, via North Ridge Timofeev's Route, 1967, Category 6A

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.5. From Kitlod Pass to Gezewcек Pass (north of the Main Caucasian Ridge)
2. Krumkol, 4688 m, via north ridge
3. Complexity Category — 6A;

Misses-Tau via W wall, 5A (via left skyline of W wall)

From the base to the sites on the glacier bend under the SE ridge base of p. Brno — 2.5–3 hours. From here:

• along the edge of the 3rd branch of the Mizhirgi glacier (Cheget-Mizhirgi) to the icefall;
• ascent to the upper circus by “ram foreheads” and moraine slopes to the right of the streams. On the moraine ridge of the upper circus — the initial bivouac site, from the bend — 1.5–2 hours. From the bivouac along the moraine slope and snow (ice) exit to the glacier plateau under the E wall. Across the plateau to the left along the rocks to the scree from the wide couloir descending from the square “gendarme” on the saddle between Misses-Tau and Dykh-Tau. 40–50 m to the right of the couloir:
• up along the destroyed rocks (rockfall hazard!) 40 m,
• then along the slabs with shelves 80 m — exit to the lower part of the oblique couloir (shelves), separating the left buttress from the wall.

Ascent of Misses-Tau via the right counterforter of the East face, 5B cat. diff. (Climbing report)

From the base to the campsite at the turn of the glacier under the base of the SE ridge of p. Brno — 2.5–3 hours. From here, along the edge of the 3rd branch of the Mizhirgi glacier (Cheget-Mizhirgi) to the icefall. Then:

• Ascend to the upper cirque via "ram's foreheads" and moraine slopes to the right of the streams.
• On the moraine ridge of the upper cirque — the initial bivouac site, 1.5–2 hours from the turn. From the bivouac, ascend the moraine slope and snow (ice) to the glacier plateau under the E wall. Across the plateau, move left along the rocks towards the debris from the couloir between the left and right counterforts of the E wall. Up the avalanche cone to the throat of the couloir. Via "ram's foreheads" to the right, 15 m under the wall — a shelter. 65–75 m up and to the right on smoothed, partially grass-covered, fairly difficult rocks, under the overhanging wall to the right of the water runoff. Traverse left (12–20 m) and then bypass the overhangs to reach a wide green ledge under the broad wall that blocks the ascent. From the start of the rocks to this point — 130 m.

Report on the ascent to the summit of Misses-Tau via the 5B category route by the sports group of the FASPb assembly

(Yu. Shevchenko's route, 1976)

Climbing passport

1. Climbing category: Technical
2. Climbing region: Central Caucasus, Mijirgi gorge
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Misses-Tau peak 4427 via the right counterfort of the wall, combined, 5B category
4. Route characteristics:

• Route length 1550 m
• Height difference 980 m
• Average steepness of the main part 85°, total 70°

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Misses via the right spur on the Wall, category 5B, by the team from KAiS MEI from August 9, 2019, to August 13, 2019.

I. Climbing Report