Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Region 3. Peak, its height, route taken: KhUGGDUM Peak, 3850 m, West Ridge and North Crest 4. Proposed category of difficulty 5. Route characteristics: 6B category. Height difference. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty. Average steepness: West Ridge - North Crest 6. Number of pitons used: rock, ice, bolted. Number of placed protection gear used 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights spent 9. Full name of the leader and participants, their qualification

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via N.N.E. wall by Ovcharov's path.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m; average steepness — 65°; length of sections: 1st diff. cat. — 40 m, 3rd-4th diff. cat. — 510 m, 5th diff. cat. — 400 m, 6th diff. cat./technical — 50 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 19; ice — 5;

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
2. Peak Shait (4916), via North-Eastern wall (Mogilevtsev's route)
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route characteristic: combined
5. Elevation gain: 1100 m; Route length: 1400 m Section lengths:
   • 5 – 251 m
   • 6 – 65 m

Ascent Record

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamiro-Alay, Alaysky Ridge 3. Peak, its height — Shait 4916 m. Ascent route via North-East wall: (following Mogilevtsev's path), official route. 4. Expected difficulty category: 5B category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m. Average steepness 67 degrees. Length of sections: 1 – 80 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 365 m, 5 – 320 m, 6 – 85 m. 6. Pitons driven:

• For belaying:
  • rock – 58
  • ice – –

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via North-Eastern wall (by Mogilevtsev's path), qualifying route
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m, average steepness 67°. Length of sections:

• 1st cat. diff. — 40 m
• 3rd cat. diff. — 300 m
• 4th cat. diff. — 375 m

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Kollektor Range, spur of the Alai Range.
3. Summit — Yubileynaya, 4860 m, right buttress of the S–3 wall, rocky.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1200 m average steepness — 45° length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 60 m
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Alai Range, Ulitor gorge
3. Peak — Bezymyanaya (4482 m), Central counterfort of the North-West wall, combined
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference from the bergschrund — 790 m, average steepness — 60°, route length — 950 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 410 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock cams ice screws | 43 | 20 | 8 | | :-: | :-: | :-: |

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alai, Kollektor Range 3. Peak — Georgievskaya (provisional name), height 4500 m, North Ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B 5. Route description — combined, height difference 500 m: section of 5th category difficulty — 40 m, average steepness — 45° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 0 ice — 15, bolt — 0, placement elements — 7 7. Number of walking hours: approach from DSE "Dugoba" to the route — 8 hours, route completed in 7 walking hours, descent from the summit via Chuteva - Pigou pass and return to DSE "Dugoba" — 8 hours 8. There were no overnight stays on the route.

Report

ON TRAVERSE P. "N" — P. Bykovsky with ascent via the eastern wall of the eastern ridge of P. "N", 4B cat. diff. (approximately). First ascent. 2nd: Bogomolov S. G., August 15, 1978 Krul V. N. ~650 m, ascent 50°, III–440, IV–80, V–40. asc. cr., 6.5 hours. July 1978

Map of the ascent area

Appendix No.2

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.