145. Gadyл via South Ridge (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow pad of the South Ridge of Bashkara's South shoulder is described in route 143. From the pad (without backpacks, with crampons!), traverse the snow slope to the right in the direction of the South Ridge. Having passed under the rocks of the (first) left buttress, cross a steep snowy couloir and ascend a steep snowy slope to the rocks of the (second) right buttress of Gadyл peak. Along the snowy slope, then the rocks of moderate difficulty of the buttress or its right side, overcoming small walls directly, exit onto simple rocks and follow them to the rocky belt. From the bivouac - 5-6 hours. Under the wall of the rocky belt, traverse to the right, then via simple rocks and a snowy couloir, ascend to the shoulder of Gadyл peak's South Ridge, above the Big Gendarme in the ridge. From here, along the simple and moderately difficult monolithic rocks of the ridge with small difficult walls, then along the snowy ridge, ascend to Gadyл. From the point of exit onto the South Ridge - 3 hours. Descend via the ascent route or via the East Ridge (see route 144). The duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 2 m, rock pitons - 5-6, ice pitons - 2-3, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac locations - on the shoulder of the South Ridge, on ledges, on the summit. ("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov)

Peak GER­MO­GE­NO­VA, 3343 m via 3rd ridge, cat. cl. 2B, climbing route Bivouac on "Rusty Rocks" (Ry­zhiye skaly). It takes 2 hours to walk from AUSB to dzhan­tug­an. From the bivouac site, we head under the first snowpatch on the right, which is quite steep and descends from the northwest ridge of the summit. After ascending the snowpatch to the ridge, we proceed along the scree and severely damaged rocks to reach the beginning of a distinct ridge. From here to the snowy saddle under the summit tower, there are various possible routes. If the firn is in good condition, a significant part of the rocks can be bypassed on the left while wearing crampons, which saves a lot of time. However, usually, one has to ascend directly through the rocks. The rocks are mostly of medium difficulty, with insurance provided by выступы (rocky ledges); there are sections of damaged rocks. Deviations to the southern side of the ridge (up to 20–40 m) are possible where deemed expedient. On the snowy saddle, an overnight stay is possible; there is water. From here, the summit tower is circumvented on the right, from the southern side. We ascend to the summit ridge to the left of the cairn. The descent follows the ascent route. Approximate time calculation:

1. From "Rusty Rocks" to reaching the ridge — 1–1.5 hours.
2. Ascending to the snowy saddle — 5–8 hours.
3. Ascending to the summit — 1.5–2.5 hours.
4. Descending via the ascent route — from 6 to 9 hours. «Tia­ney»

275. Ascent via the Northwest Ridge (rock route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 32, 39). From the Gulskie ploshchadki (point 249) on the right side of the Gul glacier, having passed the peak Gulba, turn right and ascend a snowy slope, then traverse easy, crumbling rocks in a couloir to reach the saddle of the Northwest Ridge of Gulba peak. At the saddle, turn right and follow the Northwest Ridge to arrive beneath the first gendarme. Overcome it directly via simple rocks ("live" rocks, belay). Continue on simple, crumbling rocks of the Northwest Ridge; tackle the second and third gendarmes directly (belay). Beyond them, follow the gentle, easy, crumbling rocks of the Northwest Ridge, with some ups and downs in the middle section, to reach the summit of Gulba. 6–8 hours from the initial bivouac.

276. Ascent via the Southeast Ridge (rocky route, V. Logvinova, category III, fig. 32, 39). From the Gulskie Ploshchadki (point 249), follow the glacier to the snow patch descending from the deepest saddle of the Southeast Ridge of Gульба peak. Here, turn right and along the left side of the snowy slope, alongside the rocks of the Southwest counterfort, approach the saddle. Before reaching the saddle, turn left and ascend the snowy slope, then a simple rocky couloir for 150–200 m to a connecting ridge left and above the first gendarme of the Southeast Ridge of Gульба peak. From the connecting ridge, turn left and ascend steep, heavily fragmented rocks

154. Gumachi via the West Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the “Jantugan” alpine camp to the “Zelyonaya gostinitsa” meadow is described in route 146. From “Zelyonaya gostinitsa”:

• move up the gorge;
• reach the Jankuat Glacier;
• ascend the glacier, keeping to its left side, to below the Jantugan Pass, left of two rocky gendarmes on a horizontal ridge between the peaks Jantugan on the right and Gumachi on the left;
• from the glacier, ascend a gently sloping snowy slope with a slight traverse to the right to

Sportsman's Day via the Eastern Ridge (from Jalovchat Pass), combined, 16 hours

Route description:

Link up on the pass. The ascent via the eastern ridge should start up a snowy slope between rocky outcrops with an initial steepness of about 30° (40 m), then up to 45° (40 m). The snowy slope leads to the 1st low rock tower. From it, 40 m of easy ridging leads to a rock wall (5 m) and an icy (snowy) gully to the right of it, below the 2nd rock tower. The wall has good handholds and after 5 m turns into a steep ridge of the 2nd rock tower. After 40 m, there's an exit onto the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. For a large group, this ascent variant to the 2nd rock tower is safer. Although another option is possible: traverse the gully with an exit to the opposite rocky ridge (20 m) and then (40 m) move along this ridge over easy to moderately difficult rocks, and in the upper part, traverse the gully to the right (15 m) onto the main ridge. Further, about 20 m on broken rocks (!) of moderate difficulty (intermittent belay). The rocks lead to the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. Further, 10 m of easy ridging and a wall with a cleft (5–6 m) lead to the rocks of the ridge with good handholds (40 m). Belay using protrusions. Then another 40 m of easy ridging leads to below the 3rd rock tower Palen. The 3rd rock tower is bypassed either on the right - on snow, or on the left - on ledges (belay using protrusions), which lead to a snowy ridge (120 m). The snowy ridge starts with a steep snowy (possibly icy) knife-edge (10 m). Further, 80 m of a not-steep snowy ridge with cornices to the right. The adjacent ridge leads to a rock wall (5 m), which is climbed on the right (along the route); further along a large-block rocky ridge (250 m) and about 20 m on snow, we reach the summit, which is a rocky tower (5 m). There's a control cairn on the tower. (From Jalovchat Pass - 2.5-2 hours).

pic. and compiled by M.S. M. Romаno. v. Jan-19T'A­li (3991 m) To the ridge, 2A cat. complexity. route 3. Aristova, 35. Exit from the camp along the motor road through Koshi to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa — 3 hours. Overnight stay. Exit from the overnight stay at 2–3 am. Ascent to the Jan-Kuat glacier along the left orographic snow moraine. To the Jan-Tugаn pass — exit under the Aristova rocks in the left part of the glacier. To the plateau from the Zelyonaya gostinitsa: 3–4 hours. Ascent from the plateau:

• Along the talus couloir to the shoulder

From the Baksan valley along the trail leading to the Don-Guz-Shrun pass. From the upper lake, we turn left to the ridge lowering and exit to the bottom pass Don-Guz-Shrun along the scree and gully. Descent 10–15 m down the broken rocks to the glacier and further up the glacier to the right on the southwest ridge of Nakra-Tau. Here, on the flat part of the ridge, is an overnight stay. The path from the Baksan valley to the overnight stay takes 7–8 hours. From the overnight stay site, we descend down the scree into the glacial circus, separating the northwest and west ridges of Nakra-Tau. Descending down, we cross the circus in the direction of the well-defined snow col of the western ridge. Up the steep snowy slope (4–5 ropes), we ascend to the col and exit to the "naran" - the exit from the "Karmen" to the flat snow plateau. Along the snow plateau, we move east to the South Don-Guz-Ortov plateau. From the plateau, we ascend up the gentle snow slope in the direction of the pass between the peaks Don-Guz-Shrun and Nakra-Tau. Having reached the gentle part of the slope, we turn right to the snow ridge, along which we ascend in the direction of a small zenith выступ in the ridge leading to the Don-Guz-Shrun peak. Along the skeleton of the bergschrund and further up the snow-ice slope, leaving the rocky outcrops to the left, we exit to the ridge. Along the simple rocks and snowpatch of the ridge, we ascend to the Main summit of Don-Guz-Shrun. Descent is via the ascent route. The path from overnight stay to overnight stay takes about 12 hours.

• The ascent can be made in any quantitative composition.
• In August, the exit and descent to the "naran" are challenging; on the ground, you need to have tension ropes, three ice hooks, and four clamp devices.

000243-004H

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Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.