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Route Description: СЗ гребню
Description of the first ascent of the rock route category 2A on the peak Rasek (4150 m) in the Kyrgyz Range of Tian Shan.
Ascent Passport
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
- 4150 m (Ratséka peak), via the North-West ridge.
- The route is proposed as 2A category of complexity, first ascent by a Russian team.
- The nature of the route is rocky.
- Height difference of the route — 350 m. Route length — 520 m. Length of sections:
- 1B category of complexity — 320 m,
- 2A category of complexity — 170 m,
- 3A category of complexity — 36 m.
Route Description: с пер. Шестерых
Ascent certificate for Pik Studentov (4279 m), first ascent via ridge route, category 4A in the area of Golubinoe lake, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.
Ascent Passport
to p. Students 4279 m. First ascent, I category of ascent — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area 3. The summit p. Students and per Shesterikh, route characteristics — ridge 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 380 m, length of sections 4th cat. of difficulty — 200 m, 3+ cat. of difficulty — 140 m, the rest 2–3 cat. of difficulty; average steepness — 55° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 42 (12), protection elements — 15 (0), ice — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 13 8. Number of overnight stays — none 9. Leader — Alimov V. P., CMS Participants:
- Razamascev M.Yu. 2nd sports category
- Polyncev V.A. 2nd sports category
- Churukanova L.I. 2nd sports category
- Desyatov P.R. 2nd sports category
- Team coach Belousov E.B. CMS II. Date of departure on the route and return from the route — August 20, 1987
Route Description: центр. кф. 3 стены
Climbing passport for the ascent to the peak Baychechekey via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall, category 5A difficulty, with route description and technical details.
Ascent Passport
- Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
- Pk. Baychechekhey, 4515 m, route via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall
- 5A cat. dif.
- Rock
- Route height difference: 760 m. Route length: 1430 m. Section lengths:
- V cat. dif. — 135 m.
- VI cat. dif. — 6 m.
Route Description: Ю стене
First ascent to the summit of Sofruddu via the south face, route description, features, and recommendations for climbers.
To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation
REPORT
on the first ascent to the Sofruju peak via the southern wall on July 27-29, 1972
I. Group Composition:
Gubanov Yu. D. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports, senior instructor of the Dombay region Climbing School, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement. Prima Yu. V. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, radio instructor of the Dombay region Climbing School, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement. Khamtsov A. P. — participant, 1st class, junior instructor, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement, Alibek alpine camp worker. Support group led by Candidate for Master of Sports Vorobyev D. G., parallel route on the Main Amanauz peak via the southern wall, category 5B difficulty.
II. Alpine and Geographical Overview of the Sofruju Massif.
Route Description: З стене и ледовому кулуару
Report on the passage of a category 5A route to Peak Korona via the western wall and ice gully, completed by a team from the Tomsk region in 2014.
V. Korona (4th)
4820 m
Report
of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the ascent to v. Korona (4th) via the western wall and ice gully “5A,” (c)
Participants: Temerev I.M. Novoseltsev A.V. Tomsk – 2014
Ascent Passport:
- TIAN-SHAN, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ala-Archa valley, #7
- Peak Korona (4th), via the western wall and ice gully.
- First ascent, proposed 5A category of difficulty.
- Nature of the route: combined.
Route Description: Ю гребню с пер. Кичкинекол, траверс
Report on the first ascent to the 40th Anniversary of the TASSR peak — South summit via the southern ridge from the Maly Kichkinikol pass, category 2A.
Report
On the first ascent to the peak 40 years of TASSR — South
via the southern ridge from the Maly Kichkinekol pass.
Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism of Russia.
Contact Information
- The ascent was made by climbers from Nevinnomyssk and Stavropol, with the goal of mastering a new route.
- Ascent leader
- Tereshchenko Artem Pavlovich
- Group members
- Pekin Andrey Nikolaevich
Route Description: правой части Ю стены
Report on the first ascent of Pik Zvezdny via the right part of the South Face, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed route description and technical details.
REPORT
on the ascent (first ascent) of p. Zvezdniy via the right part of the South wall (proposed 5A(5B) category of difficulty) I suggest considering it as 5B for the group. Balezin V. V. Participants:
- Smaikina S.V.
- Kovaleva A.V.
- Coach Temerev I.M.
ASCENT PASSPORT
- Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section number according to the 2008 classification table – 6.2
Route Description: правому бастиону СЗ стены
*Report on the first ascent of the route of 6A category of complexity via the north-west wall of Chon-Tor peak (4165 m) in Tian Shan*
Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Buryatia
"Gory Baikala" Alpinism Club
Report on the ascent of the team from the Republic of Buryatia for participation in
the Russian Championship in Alpinism in the snow-ice class
To the summit of Chon-Tor 4165 m
Via the right bastion of the Northwest Wall 6A, first ascent
Ulan-Ude 2016
Ascent Passport
- 7.4 — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz range, Belogorka gorge (Sokuuluk river).
Route Description: С гребню
The first ascent of Kurumdy Peak (6613 m) via the northern ridge, category 5B, in the Trans-Alay Range of Kyrgyzstan in 2001.
Ascent Passport
- Region: Заалайский Ала-Тоо Valley: Кызылсу. Section number according to the 1999 classification table: 4.4
- Peak name: п. Курумды, route name: по северному гребню
- Proposed category: 5B cat. sl., first ascent.
- Route type: combined.
- Route elevation gain: 2600 m (by altimeter)
Route length: 7700 m.
Section length:
- V cat. sl. — — m.
Route Description: по Косинусоиде СВ стены
First ascent via the "Cosine Curve" route on the Northeast wall of Pik Zvezdny (2265 m), Ergaki mountain range, category 5B, winter 2015, by Zhigalov A.V. and Matyushin N.O.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p. 6.2
- Summit — Zvezdny, 2265 m, via "Cosinusoid" on the NE wall
- Proposed — 5B category of difficulty — first ascent
- Route type — combined
- Route characteristics: height difference — 570 m, total route length — 1020 m, wall section length — 670 m, sections with 6th category of difficulty — 320 m, 5th category of difficulty — 90 m, average steepness of the entire route — 63.3°, wall section — 64.8°, 1st bastion — 51.5°, 2nd bastion — 72.2°.
- Equipment used on the route: anchor pitons — 107/85, 2 left on pendulum swings, 4 on rappels, camolots — 82/92, about 165 ITOS on "fifths", about 16 ITOS on skyhooks, 2 ITOS on bolt pitons, 7 bolt pitons hammered and left, 3 ears twisted, 4 ears left, on all stations for platform installation and one intermediate key section.
- Number of climbing hours — 37.5, days — 5. Descent 5.5 hours via Temerev I.'s route, 6A category of difficulty. Overnights — 4, all on the wall platform.