Activity Feed

Description of the ascent to the summit of Ullu-Tau Main via the ice wall in winter conditions, category 5B, made by the team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism in 2000.

Ascent Passport

  1. Winter category.
  2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge.
  3. Ullu-Tau Glavnaya peak to the right of the rocky islands (Burlutsky's route).
  4. Category of difficulty 5B ice-snow, 2nd ascent. 1994.
  5. Height difference — 870 m; length — 1200 m (wall section — 950 m). Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 910 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 56°.
  6. Number of ice screws used — 105 (0)
  7. Team's climbing hours — 12.5 hours (11.5 hours — on the wall) and 2 days.
0
0

Ascent of Ullu-Tau Main (4207 m) via the North-West Wall, right rocky ridges, Burlutskiy route, category 5B.

Ullu-Tau Main 4207 m. Right of the rock islands. North wall of the Western ridge. Burlutsky's route.

Passport

  1. Technical category.
  2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge.
  3. 5B category of difficulty.
  4. Route type — ice and snow.
  5. Height difference of the route is 1100 m. Route length is 1380 m. Length of category 5 sections — 890 m. Average slope:
0
0

Description of a winter ascent category 5B to the summit of Ullu-Tau Main via the North wall, made by a team of five people on February 7, 1994.

PASSPORT

I. CLIMB CLASS – winter 2. CLIMBING AREA – Central Caucasus 3. PEAK – ULLU-TAU Main, route via the North face, combined (V. Abalakov) 4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY – 5B 5. ELEVATION GAIN – 1000 m 6. LENGTH OF 5-6 difficulty sections – 450 m 7. AVERAGE SLOPE OF THE ROUTE – 57° 8. PITS DRIVEN ON ASCENT: rock belay devices pitons ice screws

0
0

Ascent Passport

  1. Kullumkol gorge (eastern branch of Adyr-su gorge). According to the 2008 classification table 2.4.1.
  2. Peak Shogentsukova, 4081 m, via the northern slope.
  3. Proposed — Category III difficulty, first ascent
  4. Route character — ice and snow
  5. Height difference of the route: (by altimeter or GPS) Altimeter and GPS are not used. Route length: technical part of the route 210 m, total route length 450 m. Section lengths: Category V difficulty — 4 m (ice wall 70–80° at the beginning of the technical part of the route), Category VI difficulty — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 48°; total route — 32°.
  6. "Streams" (pitons) left on the route: All ice screws (10 pieces) are removed.
  7. Team's walking hours: 9 hours 30 minutes, 2 days (including approach to the bivouac)
  8. Leader: Zhigir Sergey Petrovich, Candidate Master of Sports
0
0

Climbing report on the ascent of the "Polytechnic" AC team to the Trekugolnik peak (3830 m) via the central-north slope on August 28, 2022, category 3A.

Report

On the ascent to the peak Treugolnik (3830 m) via the Central-North slope, category III complexity, by the team of Alpcamp "Polytechnic" on July 28, 2022.

I Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Leader's Full Name, Sports RankSobolev Alexey Alexandrovich, 1st sports rank
0
0

Ascent to the peak Volnaya Ispaniya via the Eastern ridge, category 4A route, duration is 3 days, special equipment is required.

125. Volnaya Ispaniya via the East ridge (V. Abalakov's route, cat. 4A). The path from the "Jantugan" alp camp (group of 4-8 people) to the sites near the "Ryzhie" rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash glacier is described in route 121. From the sites, proceed along the moraine and talus along the glacier, then descend onto it and ascend along its left side (closed crevasses!). Bypass the icefall from the left under the slopes of Ullukara peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). Having passed the icefall, ascend, keeping to the left side of the glacier, along its upper plateau to the saddle of the ridge connecting Ullukara peak on the left and Volnaya Ispaniya peak on the right — Kashkatash pass. From the plateau, ascend along a gently sloping snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya peak, to Kashkatash pass. From the pass, turn right and ascend 100-120 m along a steep snow-ice slope (cornice, piton belay!) onto the East ridge of Volnaya Ispaniya peak. Further, move along the snowy (cornices!), then along a simple, strongly destroyed rocky ridge. Two small gendarmes are to be overcome head-on:

  • the 1st gendarme can be bypassed on the right,
  • the second — on the left ("live" stones, belay!),
  • descend into a small saddle after the gendarmes. From the saddle:
  • along the snowy ridge (cornices!),
  • then along a 70-80-meter ice-snow slope (piton belay!),
0
0

Report on the ascent of the MAK "Freeline" team to the peak Donguzorun Glavnaya via the SW slope, a route with a complexity category of 2A, including route description, technical characteristics of sections, and team actions.

Report

On the ascent to the summit Donguzorun Glavnaya via the southwest slope, category 2A, by the team of MAC "Freeline", September 30, 2024.

I. Ascent Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderSvitovoy Kirill Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsKozoderov Vasily Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank Balashova Alexandra Sergeevna, 3rd sports rank Del Andrey Alexandrovich, 3rd sports rank Chernov Stanislav Evgenievich, 3rd sports rank Shkurenko Yulia Viktorovna, 3rd sports rank Yakovlev Artem Borisovich, 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachMotienko Nikolai Ilyich
1.4OrganizationMAC "Freeline"
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
0
0

Ascent to Pik Profsoyuzov via the Eastern ridge from the north (cat. 2B) from Alpiniad base "Shkhelda" through Shkhelda Glacier and col between Pik Profsoyuzov and Shkhelda West summit.

0
0

Pik Profsoyuzov, category of complexity 2B, height 2050 m, is located in the Main Caucasian Range, description of the ascent route.

Peak Profsoyuzov!

PRK Profsoyuzov.

Cat. diff. 2B.

Summit elevation 2050 m.

The summit is located in the Main Caucasian Range, on the same ridge as the peaks Pkhola-Tau. Near the peak Profsoyuzov are located the following peaks:

  • to the southeast — Pkhola-Tau
  • to the northwest — Psentiba-shi
  • a nameless peak above the Akh-Tsu pass
0
0

**Ascent of M. Bashmakov's team to Svobodnaya Korea peak via the ice gully of the North face in Kyrgyz Ala-Too in 1984, first ascent of category 5B complexity.**

PASS

I. Technical category 2. Kirghizskiy Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley 3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the ice couloir on the North face, 4740 m 4. Proposed 5B cat. of diff. first ascent 5. Height difference 820 m, length 1580 m Length of sections with 5 cat. of diff. is 280 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 50° (4100–4600), no sections of 6 cat. of diff. 6. Pitons driven: rock 20, bolt hangers 11, ice 80 7. Team's total climbing time 24 hours, days 2

1
0
Showing 281–290 of 292 results