3. The summit, its height, ascent route — Dhante Manas 4512, eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3rd category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections 1-5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees — height difference 1200 m, length of sections: 1st cat. diff. — 300 m, II cat. diff. — 200 m, IV cat. diff. —
6. Number of pitons driven for protection to create artificial support points: local — 13 pcs., ice — none, rock — none
7. Number of travel hours — 12
8. Number of nights, and their characteristics — none
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification: | Participant | Petra­shko | G.A. | — Master of Sports | | ----------- | ---------- | ---- | ------------------ | | -"- | Muka­nov | K.B. | — 1st sports rank |

3. The summit, its height, the ascent route — Tene, 3870 m, via the northern ridge.
4. The supposed category of difficulty — 1B category.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of the section R1–R5 category, average steepness in degrees — 1000 m, 1500 m — 1 category; 40°–45°.
6. Pitons hammered in for belaying to create artificial support points — Rock pitons — 3 pcs. Ice screws — 1 pc. Bolt pitons —
7. Number of climbing hours — 8–9 hours
8. Number of nights and their characteristics —
9. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification:
10. Paraev B. N. — Master of Sports

V. Teke (3870 m) via the East Ridge, Cat. 2B

(from "Nefertiti" campsite – 2866 m) From the "Nefertiti" campsite, cross to the other side of the stream and begin ascending via a wide couloir between the massive rocky ridges of the massif. The landmark should be a prominent gendarme at the top of the ridge, strongly resembling the walls of the "Bastille" fortress. This is the ridge along which the route goes. The ascent up the snowy couloir (becoming scree-covered by the end of the season) takes about 2 hours; then, after a large rocky outcrop in the middle of the couloir, it is necessary to move rightwards onto the ridge – this takes 30–40 minutes.

Route Start

• The first gendarme is bypassed on the left.
• 35–40 m of free climbing, followed by a cairn.
• Then proceed along the ridge for 130–150 m with simultaneous belay. Rocky sections are bypassed on the left.
• 30–40 m of straightforward climbing leading to the ridge.
• Directly along the ridge – a gendarme, difficult climbing, 12 m long.
• Followed by a sharp snowy crest with a 35° slope, 15 m long, belay via ice axe.

7.14.17

Mt. Teke (3870 m)

(via the left, eastern edge — cat. 3A) (from the "Nefertiti" campsite — 2866 m) From the "Nefertiti" campsite, cross the stream to the other side and begin ascending via a wide couloir between the massive rocky edges of the massif. A prominent gendarme in the upper part of the edge, resembling the walls of the "Bastille" fortress, serves as a landmark. This edge remains to the right of our couloir. The ascent up the snowy (and later, debris-covered) couloir takes about 2.5 hours. Past a rocky outcrop in the middle of the couloir, with 15-meter walls and forming a shoulder at the top, ascend 200–250 m up the slope to reach the ridge at the level of the gendarme — a tower of very regular shape. This marks the beginning of the route. All gendarmes and rocky walls encountered along the ridge can generally be bypassed on the left.

• Movement along the left part of the ridge is via rocky ledges, with intermittent belaying; the difficulty of the sections is cat. II–III, up to 200–220 m.
• In the final third of the route, there is a 40-m ascent onto a gendarme via cat. III rocks.
• This is followed by a descent onto a 2–3 m wide, 30-m long saddle with a depth of up to 10–12 m. Snow cornices overhang. Belaying is thorough.
• From this point begins a fairly steep snowy ascent with individual rocky outcrops, stretching up to 100 m, with an initial slope of 45° increasing to 75°. Belaying is via ice axe, and later via pitons. The entire rocky cliff of the pre-summit triangle remains to the left.

Duvalisurkh (3580) via the left North Ridge — 5A (rock)

Climbing passport:

1. Western Tian Shan, Pskem Ridge, section #7.14 according to the 2013 classifier
2. Duvalisurkh peak (3580 m) via the left North Ridge (l. N. r.).
3. 5A category of difficulty
4. First ascent: Kanonersov V. — Khursandov A. (1982)
5. Description update: Shekhovtsov S., Makhmudov U., Mayorova L. (2013)

Route description:

From the base camp near the springs under Duvalisurkh peak to the col of the North ridge, the ascent takes 1.5–2 hours via scree or snow. From the col:

Zamok (3670) via the center of the North Ridge — 5A (rock)

Climbing Route Passport:

1. Western Tian Shan, Pskem Ridge, section №7.14 according to the 2013 classifier
2. Zamok peak (3670 m) via the center of the North Ridge (c. N. r.)
3. 5A category of difficulty
4. First ascent: Sergeev A. (1982)
5. Description compiled by: Shekhovtsov S., Makhmudov U., Mayorova L. (2013)

Route Description:

From the base camp on the moraine under Zamok peak, it takes 1 hour to reach the foot of the wall via scree or snow. Approach the wall, bypassing a massive red "rhombus" on the right, which is half the height of the wall. Above the "rhombus," a rock ridge is clearly visible, along which the route goes. Start of the route. Continue moving left and upwards along the wall via a system of scree inclined shelves, alternating with short, easy walls. — 400 m.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan, Pskem Ridge 3. Ascent route - peak "Koi-Tau" 3560 m via North-Eastern counterfort 4. Estimated complexity category - 4A 5. Route characteristics: - height difference - 520 m - average steepness - 66° 6. Pitons hammered: - rock - 68

Bau-besh-ata, 4485 m, 2B. Location: pr. 120905.15/3-637. Compiled by: Nekrasov G. To the north of Jalal-Abad city, above the north-eastern edge of the Fergana valley, rises the Bau-besh-ata mountain massif. The highest peak of this massif is Peak Weber (Bau-besh-ata or Bak-bash-ata), named after a prominent Soviet geologist-academician. The foot of Peak Weber, like the entire Bau-besh-ata massif, is covered with walnut forests - the largest walnut forests in the world. The main watershed of the massif, which also passes through the peak, branches off from the main ridge of the Fergana range to the southwest, thus forming a separate spur. The entire massif is composed of limestone (marbleized) with a monolithic structure.

Approaches

From Jalal-Abad, you can drive by car through Bazar-Kurgan and along the Kara-Utur river to the famous Arslan-Bob tract in Central Asia. From Arslan-Bob, you need to walk north along the Arslan-Bob river on a trail. In the upper reaches, the trail crosses to the left bank (orographically) and heads east. The trail leads to a grassy plateau located directly under Bau-besh-ata. The base camp should be set up on the plateau near one of the springs.

Ascent Route

From the base camp, we ascend along the grassy slope to the right towards the ridge. The altitude gain along the grassy slope is 200–250 m. There are rock outcrops on the ridge. We follow the ridge north and reach a scree slope, and then below the rocks. We ascend the rocks by 5–6 m and then move to the right and up along a wide ledge, bypassing large rocks. After 30–40 m of ascent, we enter a couloir. The ascent along the couloir is on scree. The width of the couloir is 2–3 m, the steepness is 30–35°. After 10 m, the couloir abuts against steep rocks.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Dugoba alpine camp 3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Peak Evening Sverdlovsk, 4600 m, via the left edge of the western wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A category of difficulty 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m average steepness — 53° length of sections: 1 — 200 m

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.