154. Gumachi via the West Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the “Jantugan” alpine camp to the “Zelyonaya gostinitsa” meadow is described in route 146. From “Zelyonaya gostinitsa”:

• move up the gorge;
• reach the Jankuat Glacier;
• ascend the glacier, keeping to its left side, to below the Jantugan Pass, left of two rocky gendarmes on a horizontal ridge between the peaks Jantugan on the right and Gumachi on the left;
• from the glacier, ascend a gently sloping snowy slope with a slight traverse to the right to

Sportsman's Day via the Eastern Ridge (from Jalovchat Pass), combined, 16 hours

Route description:

Link up on the pass. The ascent via the eastern ridge should start up a snowy slope between rocky outcrops with an initial steepness of about 30° (40 m), then up to 45° (40 m). The snowy slope leads to the 1st low rock tower. From it, 40 m of easy ridging leads to a rock wall (5 m) and an icy (snowy) gully to the right of it, below the 2nd rock tower. The wall has good handholds and after 5 m turns into a steep ridge of the 2nd rock tower. After 40 m, there's an exit onto the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. For a large group, this ascent variant to the 2nd rock tower is safer. Although another option is possible: traverse the gully with an exit to the opposite rocky ridge (20 m) and then (40 m) move along this ridge over easy to moderately difficult rocks, and in the upper part, traverse the gully to the right (15 m) onto the main ridge. Further, about 20 m on broken rocks (!) of moderate difficulty (intermittent belay). The rocks lead to the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. Further, 10 m of easy ridging and a wall with a cleft (5–6 m) lead to the rocks of the ridge with good handholds (40 m). Belay using protrusions. Then another 40 m of easy ridging leads to below the 3rd rock tower Palen. The 3rd rock tower is bypassed either on the right - on snow, or on the left - on ledges (belay using protrusions), which lead to a snowy ridge (120 m). The snowy ridge starts with a steep snowy (possibly icy) knife-edge (10 m). Further, 80 m of a not-steep snowy ridge with cornices to the right. The adjacent ridge leads to a rock wall (5 m), which is climbed on the right (along the route); further along a large-block rocky ridge (250 m) and about 20 m on snow, we reach the summit, which is a rocky tower (5 m). There's a control cairn on the tower. (From Jalovchat Pass - 2.5-2 hours).

pic. and compiled by M.S. M. Romаno. v. Jan-19T'A­li (3991 m) To the ridge, 2A cat. complexity. route 3. Aristova, 35. Exit from the camp along the motor road through Koshi to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa — 3 hours. Overnight stay. Exit from the overnight stay at 2–3 am. Ascent to the Jan-Kuat glacier along the left orographic snow moraine. To the Jan-Tugаn pass — exit under the Aristova rocks in the left part of the glacier. To the plateau from the Zelyonaya gostinitsa: 3–4 hours. Ascent from the plateau:

• Along the talus couloir to the shoulder

From the Baksan valley along the trail leading to the Don-Guz-Shrun pass. From the upper lake, we turn left to the ridge lowering and exit to the bottom pass Don-Guz-Shrun along the scree and gully. Descent 10–15 m down the broken rocks to the glacier and further up the glacier to the right on the southwest ridge of Nakra-Tau. Here, on the flat part of the ridge, is an overnight stay. The path from the Baksan valley to the overnight stay takes 7–8 hours. From the overnight stay site, we descend down the scree into the glacial circus, separating the northwest and west ridges of Nakra-Tau. Descending down, we cross the circus in the direction of the well-defined snow col of the western ridge. Up the steep snowy slope (4–5 ropes), we ascend to the col and exit to the "naran" - the exit from the "Karmen" to the flat snow plateau. Along the snow plateau, we move east to the South Don-Guz-Ortov plateau. From the plateau, we ascend up the gentle snow slope in the direction of the pass between the peaks Don-Guz-Shrun and Nakra-Tau. Having reached the gentle part of the slope, we turn right to the snow ridge, along which we ascend in the direction of a small zenith выступ in the ridge leading to the Don-Guz-Shrun peak. Along the skeleton of the bergschrund and further up the snow-ice slope, leaving the rocky outcrops to the left, we exit to the ridge. Along the simple rocks and snowpatch of the ridge, we ascend to the Main summit of Don-Guz-Shrun. Descent is via the ascent route. The path from overnight stay to overnight stay takes about 12 hours.

• The ascent can be made in any quantitative composition.
• In August, the exit and descent to the "naran" are challenging; on the ground, you need to have tension ropes, three ice hooks, and four clamp devices.

000243-004H

M

Route Description

From the "Baksan" alpine base, the group departed by car at 8:00 on June 30, 1975, to the lower station of the "Cheget" ropeway and ascended to the "Ai" café. From here, the movement:

• is to the right along the road for 20 minutes,
• then along a faintly marked trail,
• traversing the northeastern slopes of Maly Donguzorun peak,
• we ascend to a saddle in the northern ridge. This is the starting point of the route. The path from the "Ai" café to the saddle takes 3 hours. The first control cairn was set up on the saddle. At 14:00, the group began moving from the saddle in rope teams, to the right along the ridge on snow for 100–120 m below the wall. Up the steep wall (80° steepness) for 15 m to the right and upwards, and exit onto the ridge (pitons used for protection).

Irik-Chat western 1B cat. diff.

The ascent to Western Irik-Chat starts from a bivouac located in the Chat gorge on the upper green areas among numerous streams. The ascent is via the central couloir, clearly visible in the relief, which is covered with large talus. Snow remains in places within the couloir. After two to three hours of ascent, the couloir forks. The ascent continues via the left (in the direction of travel) couloir to a snowy saddle between two gendarmes located on the ridge running from the western summit. The gendarmes are overcome head-on. The rocks are not difficult, but belaying is necessary through protrusions and shoulder throws. Then, we reach the ridge leading directly to the summit. The ridge consists of easy rocks, which give way to large talus just before the summit. The entire ascent takes 4–4.5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route.

Code I-I5 KOGUTAI BOLSHOY via West ridge, 1B category of complexity. From the saddle descend along the talus, then along the snowy slope to Bolshoy Kogutaysky Glacier and along it, following the northwestern slopes of Bolshoy Kogutay, reach the saddle of the ridge connecting Bolshoy and Maly Kogutai peaks. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge in its right part and then ascend the snowy slope to the saddle of Bolshoy Kogutay's West ridge. From the saddle of the North ridge — about 1 hour. From the saddle, move left and along a short rocky ridge reach the West ridge of the peak. Further:

• Upwards along the simple rocks of the ridge, overcome a 15-meter ascent directly (protection).
• Ascend along the left side of a wide talus ridge to under the second rocky ascent.
• Pass the second 10-meter ascent through the center; at the top of the wall — a cam.
• From the ascent, along the simple rocks of the ridge, bypassing a gendarme on the right, reach the rocky ascent of the summit tower.
• Overcome the ascent along the inner corner of the left side of the ridge (protection).
• From the corner, along the simple rocks of the ridge, ascend to the summit of Bolshoy Kogutay. From the saddle — 3–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route.

Kogutai-Bashi 3821 m.

¹

49. Nakra via North-West Ridge (Route 2B cat. dif.). The path from the "Baksan" alp camp (group 4, 20 people) to the Donguzorun false pass col is described in routes 44 and 48. From the col, go left and 300–400 m up the heavily destroyed simple rocky North-West Ridge to a site below the first rocky ascent of Nakra peak. This part of the ridge can be bypassed on the right by descending from the col 15–20 m to the south, and traversing along the ridge to reach the first snowy ascent. Here, turn left and rise up the snowy slope to the sites on the ridge. The initial bivouac is on the sites. From the "Baksan" alp camp, 9–10 hours. From the sites (without backpacks), ascent along the heavily