USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION KIRGHIZ SSR ALPINISM FEDERATION 1965 USSR TEAM CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM. HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS. REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF KRAKOL'SKY PEAK 5280 m NORTH-EAST COUNTERFORT (TIAN-SHAN, TERSKEY ALA-TAU RANGE) BY THE KIRGHIZ REssoyuzsport TEAM ON JULY 25-30, 1965. Frunze, 1965 LENGNIK Olgert Mikhaylovich — Master of Sports, participant. Works as a researcher, physicist. Karabalty settlement, Kalinin district, Kirghiz SSR. Has been involved in alpinism since 1952. Participates in the USSR championship for the second time. 1965. Inspection of the counterfort in profile from the western side and 2) "testing" the state of snow when the temperature regime changes throughout the day.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area (№ according to KTMGV) — Terskey Ala-Too, № p/p.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Karakolsky, 5281 m, North face (along the "snake").
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1631 m average steepness — 62° (wall) length of sections:
   • R1 — 80 m

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan, ridge, Karakol gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Number of pitons for belay: rock pitons — 6 pieces, ice screws were not used for creating intermediate belays.
7. Number of climbing hours:

• from the upper base camp under the glacier to the upper campsite — 2 hours.
• from the upper campsite to the couloir — 30 minutes.
• ascent through the couloir — 40 minutes.

Ascent Log

1. p. Karbysheva is located in the Terskey-Alatoo range to the north of p. Karakolsky, between p. Blyukhera and p. Dyuklo. The route's ordinal number is 69, section 7.10 of the classification table.
2. Name — Pik Karbysheva. Route name — via the South Ridge.
3. Proposed category of difficulty is 4B.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference — 630 m.
6. Length — 870 m. Length of sections with category 5 complexity — 105 m. Average steepness of the route — 47°. Steepness of the main part of the route — 53°.
7. Number of pitons left on the route — 0 pcs.
8. No ITO was used; no drill-in anchors were used.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Ayuter gorge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Mt. Mendeleevets, 4200 m, 6B ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A–3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — average slope 50°. Section lengths: R2 — 690 m, R3 — 350 m, R4 — 230 m, R5 — 65 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belay:
   • rock — 25
   • ice —
   • bolt —

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Teskey Ala-Too.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — 4550 m, via the Southeast ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m, average steepness — 30–35°. Section lengths: 1st difficulty category — 150–200 m, 2nd difficulty category — 400–450 m, 3rd difficulty category — 600–650 m, 4th difficulty category — 20 m, 5th difficulty category — 5 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay — 7 rock, for creating RPE (Rope Protection Equipment) — 3 ice, expansion bolts — none.
7. Number of climbing hours — 5 h 30 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their duration — none.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

ALTUS ZAPADNYI 3090 m via western ridge, cat. dif. ASANOV B.Zh., 2009
prom_alp3@mail.ru 7.11 — Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge

Report

on ascending the western ridge of mt. ALTUS (7.11 — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge), made by the group of alpinada "SAIRAM — 2009" (opened by Mountaineering Federation of South Kazakhstan region)

Annex 1: ASCENT FILE

1. Ugam ridge, Sairam-Su river valley (7.11)
2. Altus Zapadnyi 3090 m via western ridge X)

REPORT

on the ascent to peak Arsen in the western part of the northern wall (first ascent), category 5B difficulty, of the Sports Committee team of the Kazakh SSR Team members:

• 30/11-77
• Denisenko A.A.
• Vorobyov A.S. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 1977 www.alpfederation.ru

Approach to the route

Ascent Passport

N 582 p. 55 dated January 26, 1988 Complexity category 3A. I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Summit, its height, and ascent route — "Gnom", 3450 m, via South ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category

Peak KhFTI-80 via the S ridge. Ovcharenko V.D. Elbrus E ridge # 2.4

Report

On the first ascent of Peak KhFTI-80 via the southern ridge from Assol Pass

Team of climbers from the National Science Center "Kharkov Institute of Physics and Technology"

2009

Passport

1. Elbrus region, Irik-Chat gorge, # 2.4
2. Peak KhFTI-80, height 3760 m; via the southern ridge from Assol Pass; coordinates of the summit: 43°19′16″ ± 10″ N, 42°32′37″ ± 10″ E.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.