Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical. 2. Ascent Area, Ridge: Central Tien-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Dikiy, 4930 m, via the eastern ridge. 4. Expected difficulty category: 36.25 кк ~ 504. . 2 . 5. Route Characteristics: height difference — 790 m; sections of 5th difficulty category — none; average steepness — 45°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock, ice, bolted: a) for belay — 12, 7; b) for creating i.t.o. (initial belay points). 7. Number of climbing hours — 8 hours. 8. Number of overnight stays — none.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau ridge, p. Kyzyl Asker.
3. Peak Kyzyl Asker 5842 m, via the center of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed — 6B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1490 m, wall part 1170 m, wall part length 1280 m, average steepness of the wall part 69–71° 4350–4800 — 82° 4800–5400 — 73–76° 5400–5550 — 45–50°
6. Pitons driven:

Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Oktyabrionok

via the central bastion of the NW edge 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrionok 3650 m, via the right part of the Western edge
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.

North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via North-North-West ridge For category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via North-North-West ridge.
3. Proposed: 3A cat. dif.

Passport

1. High-altitude category
2. Tian-Shan, Inylchek gorge
3. Pobeda Eastern peak (7060 m) via the north face
4. Category 6B assumed, first ascent
5. Height difference 2000 m, length — 2560 m (face)
6. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories — 2540 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (5000–7000 m), including 6th category difficulty — 92° (6170–6180 m), 90° (5180–5200 m, 5830–5865 m, 6022–6040 m, 6215–6250 m, 6363–6380 m, 6945–6955 m), 80° (5055–5070 m, 5142–5160 m, 5630–5785 m, 5885–6000 m, 6930–6945 m), 75° (6965–7000 m), 70° (5800–5818 m).
7. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau range
3. Peak — 4758 m (Pik Pozharnikh Geroyev Chernobylia via the north edge)
4. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 858 m Section lengths:

• 3rd category of difficulty — 280 m
• 4th category of difficulty — 355 m Average slope:

Ascending Peak Maly Tourist via the Northwest Ridge (Category 3B)

We leave the base camp, located on a sandbar in front of the tongues of Gl. Researchers and Chon-Turasu, at 10:30. Moving along the sandbar alongside a stream running near the tents, we approach the tongue of Gl. Chon-Turasu and begin to bypass it from the left (north) along the same stream. To our left are:

• heaps of enormous old moraines
• moraines lying on dead ice The stream disappears into the stones, and we come to a depression located between the scree slopes of the ridge between Pik Skalisty and Pik Maly Tourist to the north and the modern terminal and lateral moraines of Gl. Researchers to the south (old lateral moraines are absent). A large stream with clear water flows along the flat bottom of the hollow. The stream is not deep, and we cross it several times via stones. Soon the stream turns right, while we continue moving along the hollow. At 12:30, we ascend to a rampart (its upper part is covered with calcite boulders) blocking the hollow and enter a flat and almost horizontal gravel area about 150 m long and 30–50 m wide. After climbing the next rampart (from here, it's easy to ascend to the glacier's surface), we enter a second almost horizontal area. The area stretches for 400–500 m and ends under a powerful monolithic buttress descending from the ridge's bend before Pik Maly Tourist. The lower part of the area is silted, with a small lake. The lake is fed by:
• one large stream,
• several small streams from the slope of Pik Skalisty. The buttress descending from the ridge's bend cuts into the glacier (as do several other buttresses located higher along the glacier) and deflects it to the south. At the same time, it "dumps" the glacier's lateral moraine closer to its middle. This explains the formation of such large depressions and the absence of a lateral moraine on the glacier.

Description of the ascent to the summit of Aelita via the Central Couloir from the wall. Route category 4, combined.

From the base camp located in the Chon-Uryukty valley below Assol peak, move in the direction of the Western Cirque glacier. Following the path on the left (orographic) side of the stream, then along the left (in the direction of travel) moraine bank, overcoming 2 of its ridges, exit into the Western Cirque. Here is a suitable place for an overnight stay, with water (a small lake) and convenient platforms. From the base camp I - 5–2 hours. From the overnight stay location, move towards Aelita peak, bypassing the 3rd moraine ridge from the left in the direction of travel, and exit onto the glacier. Move across the glacier towards the snow bridge over the bergschrund, located directly under the "heel" of Aelita's Central Couloir, to a steep snow slope (in the second half of summer, ice may be exposed on the slope). This is the starting point of the route. From the overnight stay location: I, 5–2 hours. Up the steep snow slope at 30–35° (section 0–1), in teams, exit under the bergschrund, which is overcome via a snow bridge (section 1–2), and then directly under the "shoe" rocks (section 2–3). Movement is alternating, with ice axe belay; for the first person in the team, crampons are recommended due to potential ice exposure on section 2–3. For organizing a rappel, it is recommended to use the "shoe" rocks if the snow condition does not allow for a reliable anchor using an ice axe.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kungay Alatau ridge
3. Peak — Drakon, height — 3880 m, route — via Western ridge, combined
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: – height difference — 370 m – average steepness — 40° – length of 5th category sections — 14 m
6. Pitons hammered:

14

Route Description

Ascent to Pik Glavlengradstroy

First Ascent

Report №259 dated 27/1-67 SA Leningrad 1965 LOS DSO "Burevestnik" Peak 5,730, "Pik Glavlengradstroy," is located in the massif of Pik Evgenii Korzhenevskoi along its north-northeast ridge. This ridge directly branches off from the 6,787-meter summit and divides the upper part of the Kara-Sel valley into two sections, which flow into the Muk-Su river valley.