Activity Feed
Route Description: С ребру
SSummitMateFirst ascent description of Peak Vizbor (4850 m) in the Turkestan Range via the North Edge, difficulty category 5B.
I. Climbing category: technical.
- Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
- Summit: 4850 m (Vizbor Peak) via the northern edge, combined.
- Estimated complexity category: 5A
- Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m; length of sections 5–6 c/tr — 190 m; average steepness of the route's rocky part — 55°.
- Pitons hammered: for belaying — 30 (6), chocks — 40.
- Duration: 20 hours.
- Camping: comfortable, on ridges — 2.
- Team members: Kavunenko Vladimir Dmitrievich — MSMK Grakovich Valentin Fedorovich — MS, Korolev Alexey Vladimirovich — CMS, Lisetsky Vladimir Anatolyevich — CMS
Route Description: Ю стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the Moscow team to Peak Iskander (5120 m) via the South Face, category 6A, climbed in capsule style over 6 days.
Russian Mountaineering Championship, High-Altitude Class
Report on the Ascent of Peak Iskander via the South Face
Team from Moscow
| 5. Height difference of the route: | 1030 m, wall 625 m (by altimeter) |
| Length of the route: | 1320 m |
| Length of sections: | V cat. diff. – 345 m, VI cat. diff. – 245 m |
| Average steepness: | |
| main part of the route | 85°, total route – 65° |
Route Description: Ю стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the Ukraine-2 team to Peak Iskander 5120 m via the South Face, Ziltsov's Route, category VI-A.
FEDERATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING OF UKRAINE
World Championship in Alpinism Technical Class
Report
On the ascent of the team Ukraine — 2 (FACS Kharkov region) to peak Iskander 5120 m
Via the South wall. Route Zhiltsov's VI-A cat. sl. rock. Third ascent. Poltavets E. I. — team leader Timko E. N.
Kharkov 2013
Participants of the ascent
- Team leader — Poltavets Evgeny Ivanovich. MS. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V. Address: 61144, Kharkov, Akademika Pavlova str., 162A,
Route Description: Ю стене
SSummitMateReport on the passage of category 6A route on the South face of the Iskander peak in the Turkestan Range in 2013.
Ascent Report on Peak Iskander via the South Face
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge, 5.4.2. 36a
- Peak Iskander, 5120 m, via the South Face (Zhiltsov's route, 1998)
- 6A category of difficulty (4th ascent)
- Route character: rock
- Route height difference: 1030 m, wall height 625 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1320 m. Section lengths:
- V category of difficulty — 345 m.
- VI category of difficulty — 245 m. Average steepness:
Route Description: Ю стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent by team Ukraine-2 of a 6A category route on the South face of Iskander peak 5120m in Pamir-Alai.
FEDERATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING OF UKRAINE
World Championship in Alpinism Technical Class
Report
On the ascent of the Ukraine-2 team (FAR Kharkiv region) to Peak Iskander 5120 m
Via the South Face. Zhiltsov's route VI–A cat. sl. rock. Third ascent. Poltavets E. I. — team leader Timko E. N. Kharkiv 2013
Participants of the ascent
- Team leader — Poltavets Evgeniy Ivanovich. MS. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V. Address: 61144, Kharkiv, Akademika Pavlova st., 162A,
Route Description: правой части Ю стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the route "Water Truce" category 6B on the right part of the South wall of Peak Iskander (5120 m) in the Laylyak gorge area, made by the team of the Irkutsk region Federation of mountaineering and rock climbing in August 2015.
Ascent Report
Teams of the Irkutsk Region Federation of Alpinism and Climbing to the peak Iskander (5120 m), first ascent via the right part of the South face, approximately 6B category of difficulty. Russian Alpinism Championship, high-altitude technical class. Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Lailak valley region, August 2015.
| Team: | Bashkirtsev E. P. |
|---|---|
| Veretennin D. A. | |
| Coach: | Kosoturov S. V. |
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Lailak valley region. According to KMGV 2013 – 5.4.2
- Iskander. Height 5120 m. Right part of the South face. Route name "Water Truce".
Route Description: СЗ канту
SSummitMatePeak Iskander (5000 m) via the northwest edge, combined route, cat. 5B, second ascent.
Ascent Passport I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak S.Iskander (5000 m) via the northwest edge. 4. Second ascent, combined 5B category of difficulty. 5. Height difference — 1000 m, length — 1330 m. Height difference of the wall section — 750 m. Length of the wall section — 830 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 65°. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 255 m, 6th category of difficulty — 320 m. 6. Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice |
Route Description: левому кф. С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of a Category 6B route through the center of the left bastion on the north wall of Peak Sabah (5300 m) in the Pamir-Alay range.
World Alpine Championship
In the technical class
Report
on the ascent of Sabakh Peak (5300 m) via the center of the left bastion of the north face (first ascent, proposed 6B category) by the Russian national team
Climbing Passport
- Region: Pamir-Alay, Lyaylyak valley area, Ashat valley, section 5.4.2 in the 2012 classification table
- Peak, route: Sabakh Peak, 5300 m, via the center of the left bastion of the north face, first ascent
- Category: proposed 6B
- Route type: combined
Route Description: центру левого бастиона С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of a category 6B route through the center of the left bastion of the north face of Sabakh Peak (5300 m) in the Pamir-Alay.
World Alpine Championship
in the technical class
Report
on the ascent of Sabakh Peak (5300 m) via the center of the left buttress of the N wall (first ascent, category 6B proposed) by the Russian national team
Ascent Passport
- Region: Pamir-Alai, Lyaylyak valley area, Ashat valley, section 5.4.2 in the 2012 classification table
- Peak, route: Sabakh Peak, 5300 m, via the center of the left buttress of the N wall, first ascent
- Category: 6B proposed
Route Description: кф. 3 стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Peak 4230 m (Asan) via the Western wall buttress in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay, grade 5B complexity.
Passport
- Rock climbing category.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
- Peak 4230 m (Asan), via the spur of the Western wall.
- Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
- Height difference 820 m, route length 1100 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 530 m, including 140 m of 6th category.
- Average slope of the route is 63°, up to the ridge it's 70°.
- Number of pitons used: Rock pitons 130/26, bolt pitons 2/1, chocks 91/14