59а

1. Ascent Passport

1. High-altitude technical climb
2. Pamir, eastern spurs of Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
3. Peak Kholodnaya Stena via the central bastion of the north face
4. Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Wall section height difference: 1260 m, length: 1450 m. Total height difference: 1500 m, total length: 2000 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity: 830 m. Average steepness of main sections: 74° (5000–5650 m), including 280 m of 6th category complexity.
6. Pitons used:

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the ancient moraine of Manshuk Mametova Glacier Alpengrad — follow the right side of the glacier to the foot of the western counterfort of the summit. The route begins with overcoming an ice slope up to 100 m long and 45° steepness (running belay, 3 hooks). The first rocky section (up to 40 m) is bypassed on the left through shelves (running belay, 2 hooks and through ledges). The ascent continues up to the right along the left side of the ice-snow couloir with 45° steepness, up to 60 m long. Climb to the ridge of the counterfort. Simultaneous movement is possible on this section. Further, along the left side of the snow-ice couloir, exit under the pre-summit ridge (if ice is exposed in the couloir, step cutting is necessary, belay is running). The next section of the route — up to the right with an exit to the summit ridge and the summit itself. When moving, pay special attention to the large number of "live" rocks. Descent via Mametova Glacier or through Antikainen summit.

Ascent to Sportivnaya peak from the northwest via Sportivny glacier, route 2nd cat. dif. From Talgar alpine camp:

• East along the trail
• Past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge
• Turn right
• Initially along the grassy slope
• Then along the large moraine stones of Sportivny glacier The moraine has elevation changes. Overnight stay on the moraine. From the overnight site, reach the snowy slope of the ridge branching off from Sportivnaya peak

Tokhsan-Attyn (4040 m)

Traverse from east to west — category 2A

The Tokhsan-Attyn peak is located in the upper reaches of a lateral gorge with a small river of the same name, which is a left tributary of the Kaskelen River. Moving along the left bank of the Kaskelen River, turn into the Tokhsan-Attyn gorge and go up*. After 40–50 minutes, the trapezoidal Tokhsan-Attyn peak becomes clearly visible. Its northern slopes are covered with snowfields, interspersed with outcrops of rocks. At the foot of the peak are accumulations of small ridges of ancient moraines. The ascent route should be started from a large stone in the center of the cirque. Crossing the moraine piles in the direction of the northeast ridge, continue moving along the right source of the Tokhsan-Attyn stream to the foot of the ridge. The ascent to the ridge begins along a small and medium talus. In its upper part, the rocks are heavily destroyed. The gendarmes encountered are bypassed on the left side. About an hour later, there is an approach to a snow-ice couloir (its length is 70–80 m), framed by heavily destroyed rocks (be careful!). It is better to move further along the snow. At the end of the season, there may be flow ice in the couloir. It ends with a small cornice, having hacked through which, you get to the summit ridge. From the ridge, an unforgettable panorama of the Kungey Alatau ridge opens, separated from the Trans-Ili Alatau by the wide valley of the Chonkemin River. The majestic Choktal peak, the highest point of the Kungey Alatau ridge, is clearly visible. The summit ridge is rocky, consisting of massive gendarmes and accumulations of rock fragments. The rocks are easy and moderately difficult. The first gendarme made of slabs is overcome head-on; the second, having the appearance of a huge cube, is passed along a clearly defined crevice.

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge
3. Peak Pobeda Gl. summit (7439 m) via West summit from Dikiy pass from Zvezdochka glacier
4. Category of complexity — 5B
5. Height difference — 3039 m Average steepness of the ridge part of the route — 40°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock pitons — 5*
   • bolt pitons — 8
   • chocks — 6

Passport

I. Category of mountaineering ascent. 2. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. 3. Peak Khan-Tengri 103 SSW edge (V. Sviridenko, 82). 4. 6B category of difficulty. 5. Height difference 2590 m, length 3820 m. Length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 840 m. Length of sections 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58°. 6. Number of anchors used:

• rock anchors — 116
• protection equipment — 120

North-Western Tian Shan consists of several major ranges:

• Chotkal,
• Ugam,
• Pskem,
• Maidantal,
• Sandalash, and others. The highest peaks are close to 5000 m. Talas Alatau is the northernmost range of this mountain region. It is oriented roughly along the 42nd parallel and has a slightly curved shape. Significant glaciation and snow cover in this range are influenced by the fact that it receives a large amount of precipitation from the vast plain of Kazakhstan, being the first natural barrier on the path of northern winds. The Kyrgyz Range forms the north-eastern boundary of the region, located at an angle to Talas Alatau. The most interesting area for alpinism is around Peak Manas, located in the middle part of the range. The best approaches to the area are through the Kurkureu gorge. The gorge is located 70–80 km from the town of Dzhambul near the Kyrgyz village of Koksay. There are buses between Dzhambul and the village twice a day. The travel time is 2–2.5 hours. The Kurkureu-Su river flows through the gorge, surrounded by dense thickets of juniper, barberry, sea buckthorn, wild cherry, and ephedra. Therefore, the area is well-provided with firewood.

367 (Гуа­мин) is the summit of the Guamin ridge and is located on its linear part (see the map of the area). From the base camp located below the Guamin pass, we moved along the trail to the right along the Guamin river, approaching the tongue of the Nizhny Guamin glacier. From here the summit and its northwest ridge are visible. The further path goes:

• to the right of the glacier along the lateral moraine
• in the upper part, we cross the glacier under the northwest wall of the summit Here on the moraine is the overnight stay. The path from the base camp to the start of the route takes 3.5–4.0 hours.

32. Kulai Jawonon from the Bolshoi Igizak Pass, category 16, fig. 16.

From the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac, follow the Igizak River along grassy slopes and scree, and higher up, snow, to ascend to the Bolshoi Igizak Pass. From the pass, head left towards the summit along the rocky ridge. The rocks are easy, and the movement is simultaneous. After 200 m:

• Bypass a minor summit on the right, from which the ridge turns southeast.
• Follow the snowy ridge to the first summit.
• The steep ascent up the snowfield is done with alternating belays. On the way to the Main summit from the first, two gaps in the ridge are encountered. It's better to ascend via the snow to the left of the ridge. The exit to the summit is on snow. The descent from the summit is along the western ridge to a gap, and then onto the Kulai Jawonon glacier plateau and down the valley to the bivouac. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. Fig. 16.

44. Peak Panoramnyi from the south, route 2A cat. difficulty, fig. 23 (Romashevsky I. with a group - 1955) From the "Tajikskie Igizaki" bivouac, head up the gorge along the trail for about an hour. Then turn right into a side gorge with a canyon, and go up (possible snow) for 3 hours to a saddle on the southern ridge of the summit. From the saddle, follow a grassy slope with small scree to the left, heading towards the rock gate in the black rocks. Then enter the gate, and bypassing the rocks on the left, follow a couloir with small scree and rocks to reach a sharp ridge. Continue along the ridge to the saddle. Belay. From the saddle, follow the summit ridge, which is heavily broken and consists of jagged rocks and needles, to the summit. Traveling along the ridge takes 2 hours. Descend from the summit via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9-10 hours.