Schematic map of the Western Sayan ridges The Sayan mountain system is located in the south of Siberia, northeast of Altai, west of Lake Baikal. The Sayan Mountains are divided into two separate mountain systems:

• Eastern Sayan
• Western Sayan The Borus mountain range is located in the south of the Krasnoyarsk Krai, on the border with the Republic of Khakassia. The nearest settlement is the urban-type settlement of Cheremushki (300 m above sea level). The settlement of the hydroelectric power station, Sayano-Shushenskaya Dam, is located 2 km from the center. The approach from the settlement to the base camp takes 3-4 hours. The Borus ridge consists of five peaks. The highest point in the Borus area is 2320 m above sea level. The old name of the peak is Poylov Mountain, named after one of the pioneers of the region. Borus is the most visited area, a tourist center for athletes, enthusiasts, and ordinary residents of the villages Cheremushki, Maina, Siza, and the city of Sayano-Shushenskaya. This is due to its accessibility, variety of tourist routes, and the beauty of the mountains in the area. Borus is an excellent training ground for alpine climbing and rock climbing, as well as for conducting training camps. The rocks here are strong, not very cracked, and there is no ice. There are 8 routes from 1B to 3B category of difficulty. The approaches to the rocks are short: within 1-2 hours, an athlete can approach the nearest walls from the base camp. Tourists show a huge interest in the area. Family recreation has become popular among locals and visiting guests.

TITLE PAGE Mt. Oreshek 1850 m, via East Ridge, cat. 1B diff. 6.2. Irkutsk. 2014. Climbing passport for Mt. Oreshek 1850 m via East Ridge, cat. 1B.

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, Nizhnyaya Buiba gorge, section 6.2.
2. Mt. Oreshek (1850 m) via East Ridge.
3. Proposed winter route, first ascent, cat. 1B.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 100 m, route length 500 m, average slope 10°.
6. Pitons used: 3 rock and chock pitons, 2 bolt pitons used for descent.
7. Team's total climbing time: 6 hours.

North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Amangeldy via SW ridge

Category 2A difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Type of ascent: technical
2. Climbing area: North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Peak Amangeldy (3999 m), SW ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2A
5. Height difference: total route length — 300 m, including:

Gigan (4250 m). Ascent via the Eastern Ridge — Category 1B (fig. 5)

Gigan peak is located in the Kargalinsky spur system in a northwesterly direction from Zheshtar peak and is connected to it by a ridge. To the east, a ridge with Oktyabr peak (4140 m) extends from it. Its northern side is snow-covered, while the southern side has rocky, heavily eroded ridges descending from it, separated by couloirs filled with large, loose scree resting on a steep base. Fig. 5. Approaches to the summit from the Prohodnoye gorge. Bypassing the Alma-Arasan resort and the forest zone, turn west and move along the moraine of the unnamed glacier, leaving the eastern ridge of Zheshtar peak to the left, and reach the glacier. Before reaching the ridge connecting Zheshtar and Gigan peaks, start ascending from the southern side via one of the couloirs that leads to the eastern ridge. Then, proceed along the rocks, which do not present technical difficulties, to reach the summit. The summit is a narrow, eroded ridge. Descent is possible via the ascent route. It is also possible to descend northward along the ridge towards the Kargalinskoye gorge. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent was made in 1951 by Almaty climbers:

• A. Lukhtanov
• A. Maryashev

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Ascent via the northern slope.
2. Ascent from the southwest.
3. Traverse of the Dynamo­vets — Dzhamalaktau peaks. Ascent via the northern slope, Category 1B route. The Dynamo­vets peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the ridge, which is a watershed between the rivers Sredniy Talgar and Bolshoy Klyuch. The path to the summit:

• From the Tal­gar al­pin­ist camp
• Up the trail through the gorge
• To the "Zelyo­naya po­lya­na" (Green Glade) bivouac site.

PD+ 200 m 50 m

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Uchitel via the Eastern Ridge.

Climbing Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Uchitel 4550 m. Presumed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route character — ridge. Route height difference — 700 m. Route length — 1700 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 1550 m, II — 150 m,
3. Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°.
4. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, range — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Teke, 3870 m via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 2B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1–5, average steepness in degrees. 900 m, I–700 m, II–200 m, 35°.
6. Number of pitons used for belaying to create artificial holds: Rock — 6 Ice — 2 Bolt —

I. Climbing category — combined 2. Climbing area — Pamiro-Alai, Guamysh valley 3. Peak — Bivachnaya (4470 m) via the western nular 4. Estimated difficulty category — 1B orientation (first ascent) 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 400 m
• length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — none
• average steepness — 40°

6. Piton protection (number of placed protection elements):

• for belaying — 2

North Elbrus Region

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE ALPINISM ROUTE TO PEAK 3060 (Korona Z.) TASHLYSYRT RIDGE September 20, 2020 V. TRETYAKOV YESSENTUKI APRIL 2021 Peak 3060 (Korona Z.) Route: via the western ridge Complexity category: 1B category (rocky) Leader: V. Tretyakov Location:

• Central Caucasus
• North Elbrus Region