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Mt. Oreshek 1850 m, via East Ridge, cat. 1B diff. 6.2.

Irkutsk. 2014. Climbing passport for Mt. Oreshek 1850 m via East Ridge, cat. 1B.

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, Nizhnyaya Buiba gorge, section 6.2.
2. Mt. Oreshek (1850 m) via East Ridge.
3. Proposed winter route, first ascent, cat. 1B.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 100 m, route length 500 m, average slope 10°.
6. Pitons used: 3 rock and chock pitons, 2 bolt pitons used for descent.
7. Team's total climbing time: 6 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. First ascent team: Shalyakin S.I., CMS + 5 other climbers.
10. Coach: Shalyakin S.I., CMS.
11. Summit reached and descent completed on November 7, 1974.

Description compiled in 2014 by Afanasiev A.E.

The route is visited by athletes and travelers during the summer as a safe excursion.

In winter (October 15 – May 15), the route's overall difficulty corresponds to category 1B. Compared to other routes of this category in the area, it is relatively avalanche-safe.

Recommended for training groups to log an ascent only in winter.

Mt. Oreshek (1850 m) via East Ridge, cat. 1B

From the campsite at Nizhny Buiba Lake to the saddle in the ridge between Visyachiy Kamen and Oreshek, right of Visyachiy Kamen, ascend the southern slope on snow crampons — 30 minutes.

Section 0–1, 200 m, 10°, cat. I. Snow slope to the ridge crest before Oreshek, ascended on snow crampons.

Slopes drop off on both sides.

Section 1–2, 100 m, 20°, cat. I+. Descend along the ridge on snow crampons and on foot to the saddle before Oreshek.

2 hours from the lake.

Section 2–3, 100 m, 0°, cat. II. Traverse with deep snow on ledges, south of a large rocky outcrop holding the Oreshek rock, nearly horizontal traverse for 2 rope lengths. Exit to the ridge east of Oreshek.

Section 3–4, 70 m, 30°, cat. II. Turn back along the ridge. Snow-covered rock slabs on the ridge. Precipices on both sides.

Section 4–5, 10 m, 75°, cat. IV. Double, widening crack. Much snow.

Section 5–6, 10 m, 30°, cat. III. Traverse slightly right of the ridge above a drop-off, between rocks.

Section 6–7, 4 m, cat. I+. Large snowdrift on a ledge, which collapses underfoot into voids.

Section 7–8, 7 m, 85°, cat. IV. Wall directly ahead, with a crevice on the right. Either option can be chosen. Exit to the Oreshek rock.

The Oreshek rock:

• small
• about 2 meters high on the right
• can be climbed with a thrown rope

A note is located under the rock at the base of Oreshek.

Descent from the summit is by rappel on two stationary bolt pitons along a 50-meter climbing route.

From under the rock, descend:

• directly into the gorge and to the campsite at Nizhny Buiba Lake — 1.5 hours, if the snow is not avalanche-prone.
• otherwise, descend in reverse order along the ascent route via the ridge.

For training groups, the route is recommended in winter. The route's difficulty is somewhat higher than the total difficulty. The team spent 6 hours on the route. 3 chock pitons were placed. In summer, the route can be used for rock climbing training until noon.

Overview photo.

7. Section 0–1

Visyachiy Kamen is visible. Section 3. Bypassing Oreshek.

Section 7–8. Summit shoulder and Oreshek rock.