V. Alaudin, 2A, via South-West couloir

Alaudin Pass (3730 m) Descent from the summit via 2A cat. diff.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the Central North wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B, second ascent
5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain 978 m, average steepness 73°, technical sections 80°, route length 1197 m and sections by difficulty category (m) | Difficulty Category | Length (m) | | :------------------ | :--------- | | 1 | — |

I. Climbing category — technically challenging. 2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodhona (5300) via N. wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kudinov I.B. route, 1968) — 2nd ascent. 4. Climbing characteristics: route length — 3270 m, height difference — 2100 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex sections — 520 m — VI category of difficulty. 5. Pitons used: rock (including chocks) — 292, ice — 4 6. Total climbing hours — 40 h 7. Number of nights — 4 (all comfortable) 8. Number of climbing days — 5

The summit of ZINDON is located in the Pravy Zindon gorge and closes the northwestern part of the ridge-pirka. The route is combined, rock-ice, along the southern ridge from the saddle between the peaks ENERGIYA and ZINDON. Descent to the saddle along the ridge leading to the peak SO AN. The exit is from the "Green glade below the CHIMTARGA pass". The ascent to the saddle between ENERGIYA and ZINDON is along a snowy slope of 35–40°. In the absence of crampons, the ascent is possible along the scree on the left. 1st checkpoint — the saddle. Along the ridge to the first gendarme. The ridge is initially snowy, with destroyed gendarmes. Bypassing a snowy mulda — to the first gendarme. The rocks are frozen, destroyed limestones. A series of gendarmes is overcome, on the summit of one of them:

• 2nd checkpoint — gendarme. The edge of the last gendarme ends with a sheer rock wall (30–40 m) at the front. To the right — an inclined plate (60°), covered with flow ice. At the bottom, the plate rests against a narrow rocky ridge. Descent along the inclined wall via "dolphin" (30 m), subsequent movement with a deviation to the right along steep snow onto the ridge. Movement along the sharp rocky ridge to the second gendarme.

The group started the route on July 8, 1977. Ahead of us, two days earlier, the group of "Artuch" tourist club, led by, started on the same route on July 8, 1977. First Day

• Departure from the bivouac on the moraine under the route at 5:30 am.
• We walked 100 m of a snowy slope and approached the bergschrund filled with snow.
• Further ascent to a snow-ice shelf, which leads to the left edge of the rock wall of the I belt. From the snow shelf, we ascended to a 35 m internal vertical corner with an overhanging wall, which leads to a small steep shelf. Above the shelf, the internal corner continues straight up for 30 m and ends with an overhang. Then, we moved left to a crack, leading to the beginning of the slab, bypassing the exit to a large stone on the snow shelf, as the first ascenders did (Emelyanenko Yu.). This deviation from the path of the first ascenders does not simplify the route and seems more logical under our conditions. The edge of the slab forms a steep internal corner with the wall, covered with flow ice, with a cornice and smooth walls. Ascent to the slab:
• Initially, through the right part of the crack (crevice), and then through the left
• Exit to steep blocky rocks, through which we ascended to the top of the slab. Here, we bivouacked at 17:00.

I. The ascent category is technical. 2. The ascent area is the Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Range. 3. The peak, its height, and the ascent route are

• Peak MARIIA, 4970 m, via the northeast edge, category 5B difficulty, 3rd ascent of the route.

4. Route characteristics: height difference — 1460 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1425 m, average steepness of the route — 60°, average steepness of the most difficult sections — 80–90°.
5. Pitons driven: rock pitons — 89, including 5 for creating intermediate belay points; chock stones — 65, including 4 for creating intermediate belay points; ice screws — 32.
6. Time taken to reach the summit — 25 hours.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

5.3.121

Championship of the Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society "Burevestnik", 1982. High-altitude technical class

Report

On the ascent to Chapdara Peak (5297 m) via the Eastern wall, category 6B, undertaken by the team from the Voroshilovgrad Regional Council of the Voluntary Sports Society "Burevestnik".

Team Leader	Zagirnyak M.V.
Team Coach	Lyapin Z.F.
11.08	Distance, m
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Navigation is difficult (3 pitons). After the chimney, we reach the shoulder. From the shoulder upwards along the ruined rocks and talus, we reach the ridge. On the right, just below the ridge, on a rocky ledge, is the 1st control point. Further along the ruined rocky ridge, we pass to a monolithic rocky ridge, which we knock down from the left, descending onto a snowfield (photo 1). Along the snowfield with a steepness of 30° (3 ropes), we ascend to the talus leading to a section of gray moistened rocks - the "Ram's Foreheads". From the ridge to the "Ram's Foreheads", 4 hours are spent. Taking slightly to the right from the ridge, we approach a couloir made of red stone with an overhanging rock above. This section is the first to be passed without a rope. Navigation is difficult: 7 m (2 pitons). After the couloir, we emerge onto an inclined shelf with talus. From here, a traverse of the steep right wall of the "Ram's Foreheads" begins (photo 2). The traverse (6 ropes) requires great physical and moral tension. The belay is piton (14 pitons). The last выступ of the "Ram's Foreheads" can be passed by making a traverse slightly downwards, but at the end, there is a very difficult exit to the ridge. It is easier to continue moving upwards along a barely discernible inclined shelf (6 m, 2 pitons) with an exit to the ridge. 15 m along the ridge and a steep descent into a gap. The "Ram's Foreheads" are passed in 4 hours. Further movement along the ridge with alternating belay through ledges (150 m). We approach a large inclined slab (45–50°). We pass the slab in the lower part, where there are good handholds (40 m, 1 piton). After the slab, there is a small descent along the couloir, and then an ascent along a steep, loose talus, 50 m, and we find ourselves on a large rocky plateau before the "Mirror". On the plateau is the 2nd control point and an overnight stay. Time: 19:00. July 19, 1963. At 9:00, we approached the "Mirror" (photo 3).

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Ridge. 3. Summit — Sarit-Tamur (4429 m) via the western ridge 4. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, combined route 5. Height difference — 1179 m. Length — 1540 m. Length of sections 4–5 category of difficulty — 350 m, of which 5 category of difficulty — 100 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 50° 6. Pitons driven: Rock: 55. Nuts: 33/2. Bolt: 2. Ice: 5 7. Climbing hours — 16 (1–2 days) 8. Overnight stays — 1, lying (on a ridge)