Ascent Log

of the Tyumen Region combined alpine team (Tyumen Regional Alpine Federation) to Peak Korona 5th Tower via the Sadovsky Route, category 5B, as part of the Russian Alpine Championship, correspondence class for high-altitude technical ascents. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley. Peak name: Korona 5th Tower, 4860 m Route: V. Sadovsky's Route (1968) - southwest wall, category 5B Route type: combined Route elevation gain: 860 m Route length: 900 m Section lengths:

• category 2: 200 m

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge.
2. Peak name: Korona 5th tower 4860 m
3. Route V. Balezin (1996), center of the southwest wall, 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 850 m. Route length: 950 m. Section length:

• V difficulty category 600 m
• VI difficulty category 110 m.

The ascent to the peak "Mirny" begins with the ascent to the "Mirny" pass, located south of the peak. The ascent to the pass is not difficult and is done via a couloir covered with large and medium talus (see photo). The ascent takes 35–45 minutes. At the pass, you can leave your ice axes and, if there is no snow on the rocks, it's better to change into climbing shoes. The summit ridge drops to the pass with a wall 120–125 m high and a slope of 65–70°. The rocks are of medium difficulty and difficult. At the beginning of the ascent:

• Ascend directly upwards on rocks of medium difficulty for 5 m;
• Traverse the wall along a rock ledge to the right for 10 m (2 pitons are hammered in for belay);
• The ledge leads to the foot of a 25 m high wall. The ascent up the wall directly leads to a wide platform. Belay is through pitons (4 pitons are hammered in).

I. The route is rock. 2. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge, KSP of Kyrgyz Ala-Too. 3. Peak Ratsek along the ridge from the north. 4. First ascent. 5. Height difference: 440 m, route length: 1200 m. section

• 4 cat. diff. — 20 m.
• 3 cat. diff. — 200 m.
• 2 cat. diff. — 200 m.

200 m 30′

• R2 200 m 30′
• R3 200 m 45′

100 m

• R6 20 m 45′

200 m

• R5 40 m 50′

200 m

• R4 40 m 10′

Report

On the ascent of Pik Ratseka (3900 m) via the south ridge (2A category of difficulty approximately)

Team leader: Akimov V.V. Participants:

• Zobenko A.A.
• Braun A.A.
• Lekomtsev M.A. Bishkek 2012

Climbing Passport.

1. Climbing area: Tian-Shan.
2. Kyrgyz range.
3. Pik Ratseka (3900 m) via S ridge.

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent category.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Aksai spur.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via north wall couloirs (Barber's route), 4740 m.
4. Proposed category 5B difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference — 680 m, length — 865 m. Length of category 5B difficulty — 520 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (4060–4660 m), including sections of 51° (4120–4420 m), 52° (4420–4580 m), 59° (4580–4660 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 1 ice 340

The team's departure for the route was scheduled for July 29, 1985, between 3:00–4:00, on the same day as the teams from RSFSR and Ukrainian SSR. The choice of the route to Pik Svobodnaya Korea via the north face (Myshliaev's route) was made for the most objective comparison and visibility of the team's actions on the route relative to the two other teams following parallel routes (Bezzubkin, Popenko). Moreover, the choice of the route and simultaneous departure for the ascent ensured coordinated actions in case of the need for assistance, as the teams were within visibility and voice communication range. Due to the late dawn, the team departed from the "Koronskie" overnight camps at 4:00. No route processing was conducted. On the day of approach, visual observations were made of the planned ascent route. No rockfall was noted. At 5:00, the Avtomonov–Bershov team began crossing the bergschrund and subsequent movement along the ice slope (section R0–R2), installing fixed ropes. All participants traversed this section in crampons. The first climber used:

• ice axe
• ice screws
• screw and ice piton hooks.

1. p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. team leader: Sergey Dashkevich, Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Aksay valley.
4. Section in classification 7.4

Report

on the second ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) to p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6A cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Ekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, ap. 17, Sergey Dashkevich, Tel. 89122436251, Dash-sa@mail.ru, Ekaterinburg, 2010

Report on the ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.