Activity Feed
Route Description: центру С стены
Winter ascent via a Category III route on the North face of Ak-Su Peak in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — winter
- Region — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge
- Object — Ak-Su peak
- Complexity category — 6B (Chaplygin's '88)
- Elevation gain — 1500 m, length — 1930 m. Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 455 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Cams | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 269 | 5 | 223 | 83 |
Route Description: центру С стены
Report on the ascent made by the team from Irkutsk city to the summit of Aksu via the center of the North face, cat. 6B, August 2008.
AkSu (N), center of the North face, 6B cat. diff. by B.A. Khandzhapov
1.4.2. Report on the ascent of the team from Irkutsk to the summit of AkSu (N) via the center of the North face (Ruchkin'96) (3rd ascent)
August 2008 09.09.2008 Khandzhapov Bair
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley, 5.4.2.
- AkSu (N), 5217 m, center of the North face.
- Proposed 6B cat. diff. (third ascent).
- Route type — combined.
- Height difference — 1517 m, wall section height difference — 1415 m;
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Description of a 5B category difficulty route to Peak 5229 (A. Blok) via the North-Western ridge in the Turkestan Range.
Passport
- Category — technical.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
- Peak 5229 (A. Blok) via North-West ridge.
- Petrichenko's 5B category route from 1984 is proposed.
- Height difference: 1020 m, length 1101 m.
- Length of 5th–6th category sections — 770 m. Average steepness of the route — 66°, including:
- 6th category — 4500–4790 m — 85°
- 4790–5089 m — 74°
Route Description: З и СЗ стене
Ascent to Pik Bloka via the Maksimenya route, category 6A, on the West and North-West wall.
Ascent Record
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley, 5.4.2.
- Peak Bloka, 5239 m, via West and Northwest wall (Maximenya route, 2008)
- Proposed — 6A category (2nd ascent)
- Route type: rock
- Route height difference: 875 m, wall 790 m (by altimeter)
Route length: 1035 m.
Length of sections:
- 5th category — 125 m.
- 6th category — 615 m.
Route Description: С ребру
First ascent description of Peak Vizbor (4850 m) in the Turkestan Range via the North Edge, difficulty category 5B.
I. Climbing category: technical.
- Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
- Summit: 4850 m (Vizbor Peak) via the northern edge, combined.
- Estimated complexity category: 5A
- Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m; length of sections 5–6 c/tr — 190 m; average steepness of the route's rocky part — 55°.
- Pitons hammered: for belaying — 30 (6), chocks — 40.
- Duration: 20 hours.
- Camping: comfortable, on ridges — 2.
- Team members: Kavunenko Vladimir Dmitrievich — MSMK Grakovich Valentin Fedorovich — MS, Korolev Alexey Vladimirovich — CMS, Lisetsky Vladimir Anatolyevich — CMS
Route Description: Ю стене
Report on the ascent of the Moscow team to Peak Iskander (5120 m) via the South Face, category 6A, climbed in capsule style over 6 days.
Russian Mountaineering Championship, High-Altitude Class
Report on the Ascent of Peak Iskander via the South Face
Team from Moscow
| 5. Height difference of the route: | 1030 m, wall 625 m (by altimeter) |
| Length of the route: | 1320 m |
| Length of sections: | V cat. diff. – 345 m, VI cat. diff. – 245 m |
| Average steepness: | |
| main part of the route | 85°, total route – 65° |
Route Description: Ю стене
Report on the ascent of the Ukraine-2 team to Peak Iskander 5120 m via the South Face, Ziltsov's Route, category VI-A.
FEDERATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING OF UKRAINE
World Championship in Alpinism Technical Class
Report
On the ascent of the team Ukraine — 2 (FACS Kharkov region) to peak Iskander 5120 m
Via the South wall. Route Zhiltsov's VI-A cat. sl. rock. Third ascent. Poltavets E. I. — team leader Timko E. N.
Kharkov 2013
Participants of the ascent
- Team leader — Poltavets Evgeny Ivanovich. MS. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V. Address: 61144, Kharkov, Akademika Pavlova str., 162A,
Route Description: Ю стене
Report on the passage of category 6A route on the South face of the Iskander peak in the Turkestan Range in 2013.
Ascent Report on Peak Iskander via the South Face
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge, 5.4.2. 36a
- Peak Iskander, 5120 m, via the South Face (Zhiltsov's route, 1998)
- 6A category of difficulty (4th ascent)
- Route character: rock
- Route height difference: 1030 m, wall height 625 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1320 m. Section lengths:
- V category of difficulty — 345 m.
- VI category of difficulty — 245 m. Average steepness:
Route Description: Ю стене
Report on the ascent by team Ukraine-2 of a 6A category route on the South face of Iskander peak 5120m in Pamir-Alai.
FEDERATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING OF UKRAINE
World Championship in Alpinism Technical Class
Report
On the ascent of the Ukraine-2 team (FAR Kharkiv region) to Peak Iskander 5120 m
Via the South Face. Zhiltsov's route VI–A cat. sl. rock. Third ascent. Poltavets E. I. — team leader Timko E. N. Kharkiv 2013
Participants of the ascent
- Team leader — Poltavets Evgeniy Ivanovich. MS. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V. Address: 61144, Kharkiv, Akademika Pavlova st., 162A,
Route Description: правой части Ю стены
Report on the first ascent of the route "Water Truce" category 6B on the right part of the South wall of Peak Iskander (5120 m) in the Laylyak gorge area, made by the team of the Irkutsk region Federation of mountaineering and rock climbing in August 2015.
Ascent Report
Teams of the Irkutsk Region Federation of Alpinism and Climbing to the peak Iskander (5120 m), first ascent via the right part of the South face, approximately 6B category of difficulty. Russian Alpinism Championship, high-altitude technical class. Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Lailak valley region, August 2015.
| Team: | Bashkirtsev E. P. |
|---|---|
| Veretennin D. A. | |
| Coach: | Kosoturov S. V. |
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Lailak valley region. According to KMGV 2013 – 5.4.2
- Iskander. Height 5120 m. Right part of the South face. Route name "Water Truce".