Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge, gorge — Tian-Shan, Inylchinsky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mayda-Adyr, 4090 m, via the left N ridge
4. Route complexity category — 1B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1590 m, section length — average steepness —
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock

• ice

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class: Rock

2. Ascent Region: Kyrgyz Republic, Inylchektau ridge, Maidaadyr tract.
3. Peak, Route: First ascent of peak 4090 m, FALS (Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing of the Kyrgyz Republic), from the north via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated Difficulty Category: 1B
5. Elevation Gain: 1530 m.
6. Total Route Length: 4240 m.
7. Length of Key Sections: 48 m.

• Of which, 2 cat. diff. 48 m.

8. Number of Pitons: rock, ice, and bolted.

Report

On the ascent of Pik Vladimira Putina (4446 m)

via a route of category 2B difficulty (presumably), Bishkek, 2012

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, Zhartash gorge
2. Peak name: Pik Vladimira Putina, 4446.2 m Route name: via the northern ridge
3. Assumed: 2B category difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 1700 m

R12 15­m 50 11

• 40­m 20 11
• R2 60­m 45 11
• R2 45­m 65 11
• R7 110­m 25 30 11
• R6 40­m 65 11
• R2 40­m 70 11
• R4 80­m 35 11
• R2 60­m 40 11
• R2 30­m 45 11

II ascents

I. Climbing class: Technical 2. Climbing region 7.4 (Tian Shan. Kyrgyz Ala-Too) 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route Alamedinskaya Wall (N. peak) — 4550 m via Western ridge (ascent to N.). 4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1065 m Average slope 49° Length of sections:

• I — 510 m

The route starts from the bergschrund. In winter, the crevices are usually filled with snow and crossing the bergschrund is not particularly difficult. In summer, however, there may be a difference in the walls of the crevice of up to 3–5 m of sheer ice or very difficult firn that is challenging to belay. Section R0–R4:

• Ice slab with a slope of up to 50°.
• Alternating movement.
• Belay using ice screws. Section R3–R3:
• Rock islands covered with ice.
• In summer, due to the thin ice, the rocks may be exposed, so belaying is expected to be done using both ice screws and rock protection (pitons and nuts).
• Due to the specifics of the rock relief, thin rock pitons and small-sized nuts (preferably stoppers) are preferable. Section R4–R5:

1. Peak Bailyan (1st), 4700 m, via northwest wall, 2010 (first ascent)
2. As a two-person team
3. Central Tian Shan. Kyrgyz Range. Aksai gorge.
4. Section in Classification 7.4

Report

on the first ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) on Peak Bailyan (1st), 4700 m, route "Doroga domoy" (Road Home), via the northwest wall.

• Cat. difficulty: 5Bz

Addresses

620092, Yekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, apt. 17 Dashkevich Sergey Aleksandrovich

Brief explanation of the table

Peak Ba'checheke is located in the Kyrgyz ridge, Ak-Sai horseshoe, between the peaks Uchitel and Skryabin. The route is combined: the path to the summit goes through 103 counter-force, i.e., along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the rocky bastion. When the bastion ends, the counter-force of the bastion turns into the pre-summit ridge. The entire route can be conditionally divided into the following characteristic sections:

• Section 1
• Section 2
• Section 3 | Section | 0-1 | — Couloir 5 |

1. Ascent Passport

Region — Central Tien-Shan. Kyrgyz Range. Peak — Baychechekhey, 4515 m, via the left part of the West Face. Proposed — 5A cat. diff. first ascent. Route character — rock climbing

Route Characteristics

height difference of the route — 500 m. height difference of the wall part of the route — 260 m. route length — 850 m. length of the wall part of the route — 290 m. average steepness of the route — 41°. average steepness of the wall part — 76°. length of sections with 6 cat. diff. — 90 m, 5 cat. diff. — 155 m.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.