I. The route is rock. 2. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge, KSP of Kyrgyz Ala-Too. 3. Peak Ratsek along the ridge from the north. 4. First ascent. 5. Height difference: 440 m, route length: 1200 m. section

• 4 cat. diff. — 20 m.
• 3 cat. diff. — 200 m.
• 2 cat. diff. — 200 m.

200 m 30′

• R2 200 m 30′
• R3 200 m 45′

100 m

• R6 20 m 45′

200 m

• R5 40 m 50′

200 m

• R4 40 m 10′

Report

On the ascent of Pik Ratseka (3900 m) via the south ridge (2A category of difficulty approximately)

Team leader: Akimov V.V. Participants:

• Zobenko A.A.
• Braun A.A.
• Lekomtsev M.A. Bishkek 2012

Climbing Passport.

1. Climbing area: Tian-Shan.
2. Kyrgyz range.
3. Pik Ratseka (3900 m) via S ridge.

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent category.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Aksai spur.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via north wall couloirs (Barber's route), 4740 m.
4. Proposed category 5B difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference — 680 m, length — 865 m. Length of category 5B difficulty — 520 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (4060–4660 m), including sections of 51° (4120–4420 m), 52° (4420–4580 m), 59° (4580–4660 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 1 ice 340

The team's departure for the route was scheduled for July 29, 1985, between 3:00–4:00, on the same day as the teams from RSFSR and Ukrainian SSR. The choice of the route to Pik Svobodnaya Korea via the north face (Myshliaev's route) was made for the most objective comparison and visibility of the team's actions on the route relative to the two other teams following parallel routes (Bezzubkin, Popenko). Moreover, the choice of the route and simultaneous departure for the ascent ensured coordinated actions in case of the need for assistance, as the teams were within visibility and voice communication range. Due to the late dawn, the team departed from the "Koronskie" overnight camps at 4:00. No route processing was conducted. On the day of approach, visual observations were made of the planned ascent route. No rockfall was noted. At 5:00, the Avtomonov–Bershov team began crossing the bergschrund and subsequent movement along the ice slope (section R0–R2), installing fixed ropes. All participants traversed this section in crampons. The first climber used:

• ice axe
• ice screws
• screw and ice piton hooks.

1. p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. team leader: Sergey Dashkevich, Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Aksay valley.
4. Section in classification 7.4

Report

on the second ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) to p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6A cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Ekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, ap. 17, Sergey Dashkevich, Tel. 89122436251, Dash-sa@mail.ru, Ekaterinburg, 2010

Report on the ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea

KIEV CITY COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK SVOBODNAYA KOREYA VIA THE NORTH FACE Kiev, 1969 www.alpfederation.ru

List of participants

1. 1961 "Burevestnik" led by L. Myshliaev
2. 1966 Kazakhstan led by B. Studenin

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
2. Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m, center of the North face (Yu. Popenko)
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference (bergschrund 4100 m – summit 4740 m) — 640 m. Route length to the ridge — 870 m. Route length to the summit — 1070 m. Section lengths:

• 6 category of difficulty — 160 m
• 5 category of difficulty — 460 m. Average steepness to the ridge — 65°. Average steepness of the main part of the route (to the "roof") — 75°.

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Tian-Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaia Korea, 4740 m, via the north wall.
4. 6A category difficulty (S. Semiletkin, 1988) 9th ascent.
5. Elevation gain 820 m, route length — 1125 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty is 390 m, 6th category — 310 m. Average steepness of the route is 60°.
6. Pitons used | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: |

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m