Passport

Ascent to Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the center of the North face.

1. Ascent category: high-altitude
2. Ascent area: Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: center of the North face, height 6995 m
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 2600 m, average steepness 55°, length of complex section 710 m
5. Number of hooks driven: rock 278, ice 58, bolted —
6. Number of nights and their characteristics: 13 on dug-out platforms, 5 of which were sitting
7. Number of travel hours: 119
8. Team name: Team of CS DSO "Spartak"

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Chapayeva, 6371, via the Western part of the South face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 2371 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 2050 m, average slope – 55°.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | rock | ice | bolt |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too range, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Peak — Peak Burevestnik, 4360 m, ascent route — via North-Eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 514 m, length of sections IV–V cat. diff. — 320 m, average steepness 55°
6. Pitons driven: rock protection — 33, ice — 2, bolted — 0
7. Number of travel hours — 14

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Summit — Keldysh Peak, 4430 m, ascent route via the North Ridge from Ayilama Pass
4. Estimated category difficulty: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 766 m, length of sections with IV–V category difficulty — 660 m, average steepness 48°
6. Pitons used: rock anchors — 12, ice screws — 34, bolt anchors — 0
7. Total climbing hours — 15
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 0

Report

on the ascent of Oguz-Bashi 2nd Eastern via the Northern wall, 5B category of difficulty, second ascent. Team of Tomsk Regional Sports Committee. Team captain — Sannikov Yu.V. Team coach — Dyachenko N.N. 634050, Tomsk, Herzen St. 8, Regional Sports Committee. 634055, Tomsk, 30 let Pobedy St. 3, apt. 606, Sannikov Yu.V. 634012, Tomsk, Kirova St. 61, apt. 30, Dyachenko N.N.

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Oguz-bashi II Western peak (5000 m) via the North face "through the icefall"
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6A first ascent
5. Route description: elevation gain — 750 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 600 m, 6th category of difficulty — 190 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 57° (4200–4850), including 6th category of difficulty sections: 65° (4650–4725), 85° (4770–4850), 105–120° (4830–4880)
6. Pitons used: rock: 0, bolt: 0, chocks: 0, ice: 430* * — including 130 per rope team during independent movement and an additional 40 during interaction (130 × 3 + 40).

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 60 let Velikoy Oktyabr'skoy Sotsialisticheskoy Revolyutsii (5006) via W buttress. 4. Expected difficulty category — 5B 5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex section 5–6 cat. diff. 620 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock 143, ice 25, bolt 0, of which for creating artificial holds — 15 7. Number of climbing hours — 44 8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 1. Sitting bivouac

REPORT

on the ascent to the peak "60 лет Октябрьской революции" via the north-eastern edge (second ascent) 4Б cat. diff., accomplished by the group of Kyrgyz RS DSO "Spartak" Frunze, 1978.

General view of the route

BRIEF EXPLANATION OF THE TABLE

Approach from the Baitor camp to the route. The route follows a not clearly defined broad counterfort. Passable ice slope 45°, 80 m. Exit into a narrow couloir, which leads to a ledge in front of a monolithic rock wall. We move left along a snow-ice slope with step cutting, piton belay. Further, two ropes of difficult rock directly upwards, rocks are heavily destroyed. Control cairn on the ledge. From the ledge upwards along difficult rocks, three ropes. Further 20 m of easy rocks, exit onto the ridge. At 20:00, we stop for the night on a rock ledge. Control cairn. Departure from the bivouac at 8:00. Along an ice slope with rock outcrops, we exit onto the main ridge. Along easy rocks, we reach a saddle. Further, one rope of snow-ice slope, one rope of rock ascent, and the ridge continues with easy rocks, steepness up to 40°. Along it, we exit onto the summit. Descent towards the Baitor pass, further down the icefall onto the Baitor glacier and down to the camp.

Appendix 2

Team Championship of CS DSO "TRUD" 1969 in Alpinism Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH-WESTERN COUNTERFORCE OF PIK ALBATROS — ROUTE 5A cat. diff. (Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, height 4740 m) Team of MGS DSO "Trud" July 18-20, 1969 Moscow, 1969

I. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE REGION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT.

Pik Albatros (eastern peak — 4800 m, western — 4740 m) is located in the axial part of the Terskey-Ala-Too ridge and closes the Kок-bor gorge (55 km south of Przhevalsk). The peak is located in the upper reaches of the right tributary of the Kокbor River, which is a right tributary of the Karakol River.

но­сти 30–35 м straight up. Да­лее 80 м вверх по кру­тым ска­лам сред­ней труд­но­сти Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра and along a 20-meter vertical difficult chimney to ascend to a slanting shelf. Along the shelf, traverse under the wall to the right to a vertical cleft. Up a difficult 20-meter cleft in the wall (the key point of the route) to ascend to a slanting shelf. From the shelf, along icy rocks 25 m up to a rocky site on the Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра. From the site, 250–300 m up and to the right along a snowy ridge, then along the slope. Then, traverse up and to the right through an icy-snowy couloir and move to the right onto rocky shelves. From the shelves, 1215 m:

• up and to the right along moderately difficult, разру­шен­ным ска­лам,