Passport

Ascent to Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the center of the North face.

1. Ascent category: high-altitude
2. Ascent area: Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: center of the North face, height 6995 m
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 2600 m, average steepness 55°, length of complex section 710 m
5. Number of hooks driven: rock 278, ice 58, bolted —
6. Number of nights and their characteristics: 13 on dug-out platforms, 5 of which were sitting
7. Number of travel hours: 119
8. Team name: Team of CS DSO "Spartak"
9. Surname, name, patronymic of captain, coach, and participants and their sports qualification: Studenin Boris Andreevich, MSMS, coach-captain; Medvedev Vladimir Makarovich, CMS, deputy captain; Gapich Viktor Alekseevich, CMS; Kurachakov Anatoly Vasil'evich, CMS; Marchenko Yuri Trofimovich, CMS.
10. Team coach: Studenin B.A.
11. Date of departure on the route and ascent: July 19 – August 2

Team Captain
Team Coach

Organizational and Tactical Ascent Plan

The North face of Khan-Tengri has already proven its severity and inaccessibility. Conquering the almost three-kilometer wall is only feasible for a team consisting of healthy, strong-willed, and seasoned athletes capable of navigating complex terrain in harsh weather conditions.

The organizational and tactical plans for the ascent, drawn up based on significant experience from expeditions by Kaz.RS DSO "Spartak" and the Kazakh Alpine Club conducted in Central Tian Shan in 1965, 1968, 1969, and 1970, included the following:

1. Team members must have acclimatization necessary for ascending to heights over 7000 m. For this purpose, a training and acclimatization camp was held in Trans-Ili Alatau, followed by a crossing of the Saryjaz ridge (5200 m) and an ascent to Peak Eleven (5400 m). All participants were required to have experience in both high-altitude and technically complex ascents.
2. To save time and energy for participants, all major cargo was delivered to the base camp by helicopter.
3. The expedition included two doctors with alpine qualifications and an experienced radio operator.
4. To avoid surprises on the route, thorough reconnaissance was organized, including exploratory exits and processing of the route's beginning, after which the final variant was chosen in coordination with teams also aiming to conquer the North face.
5. Each participant was to be equipped with sufficient woolen and down gear. Given the complex weather conditions of the area, special attention was paid to protection against frostbite on hands and feet. The team used well-proven beypaks and fur mittens.
6. For communication with the base camp, a "Vitalka" radio station was used; the team also took rockets on the route.
7. The team was to be equipped with a sufficient amount of main and auxiliary rope to continue processing the route without dismantling the camp in case of prolonged bad weather. A total of 600 m of main and 100 m of auxiliary rope was used.
8. The team's "equipment kit" was to maximally correspond to the rock composing the wall (schist, marble) and ensure passage of terrain of any complexity.
9. Prolonged preliminary processing of the route was considered unnecessary; sufficient processing was for one full day's journey.
10. The entire route was planned to be completed in 10 days under good weather conditions. Considering the specific weather conditions of Central Tian Shan, this term was extended to 15 days. Based on this duration, food and fuel were stockpiled (450 g and 140 g per person per day, respectively).
11. Descent from the summit was planned via the simplest and most familiar route - the western ridge to the saddle, then along the northern ridge of Peak 6120 to the base camp.

During the ascent, there were no deviations from the outlined plan. The route was completed exactly in 15 days; processing of the route during forced "hiding" due to bad weather did not cease thanks to the team having 300 m of main rope and a sufficient number of carabiners and hooks throughout the route.

Composition of the Assault Group

The team departed for the ascent in the following composition:

1. Studenin B.A. — MSMS — captain
2. Medvedev V.M. — CMS — deputy captain
3. Gapich V.A. — CMS — participant
4. Kurachakov A.V. — CMS — participant
5. Marchenko Y.T. — CMS — participant

Other participants listed in the application were unable to join the expedition due to the following reasons:

• Popov V., head of the snow avalanche service of Kazakhstan, was on urgent business.
• Reznik V., head of the geological party, was unable to leave work at the last moment.

Route Description

Ascent to Peak Khan-Tengri via the North face

July 9, 1974. The weather is good in the morning, with rare small clouds. At 6:30, the group left the base camp located on the left lateral moraine of the North Inylchek glacier. They carried everything necessary for a 15-day ascent up the wall in their backpacks. Along the gentle right edge of the glacier flowing from the cirque between peaks Khan-Tengri and Chapayev, they approached the foot of the wall. The glacier was covered with snow 20–40 cm deep. Along the foot of the wall, bypassing the lower icefall on the left, they reached a small trough at the start of the route (photo 2).

They began the ascent up the ice slope covered with snow (section R1). The snow was loose, and it didn't hold well on the ice. The ropes hung two days ago were covered with snow and partially frozen into the ice by 10–20 cm. Often, they had to work with an ice axe, clearing the ropes and cutting steps. The section ended with a bergschrund 0.5–1 m wide and with a height difference between the upper and lower steps of 1–1.5 m.

Above the bergschrund, the ascent continued up the ice slope, mostly free of snow (section R2). The steps cut during the route's processing had almost completely disappeared, so it was often necessary to cut new ones.

They reached the first rocky outcrop, above which the ice slope became steeper, but there were small sections of ice and rock outcrops every 15–20 m, allowing the use of protrusions and rock hooks for belaying (section R3). Here, they also had to cut steps in some places and clear the frozen-in-ice perlon rope.

Characteristics of the conditions:

• Ropes after bad weather were frozen and icy, but the jammers used by the team held perfectly.
• On rocky sections, holds were generally covered with a thin layer of ice.
• The belay on the described section of the route was predominantly with ice hooks.

Above, a large rocky massif rose, forming a wall with a steepness of 50–60° (sections R4, R5). The massif, like the entire North face from the base to two-thirds of its height, was composed of metamorphosed schist of medium and high schistosity. The general dip of schistosity was to the southeast at steep 60–80° angles, but local folding changed the orientation of schistosity in various directions. The rocks were quite soft, easily crumbling, so the most applicable for belaying were thick and long rock hooks, channel hooks, and ice hooks, less often wedges. Movement on sections R4 and R5 required caution, as the route went straight up through crumbling rocks abundant with "live" stones. They entered a small, weakly expressed counterfort and moved along it to the right, simultaneously gaining height (section R6). The counterfort gradually turned into a rocky slope of medium steepness; the direction of movement remained the same. The rocks were often snow-covered, coated with ice crust, and sometimes there were 3–5-meter sections of firm accretion ice.

The steepness of the rocks increased to 60°. Here, they turned straight up (section R7) and climbed up the rocks of a similar character to those described above to the base of a 15-meter sheer wall, filled with ice. The entry via the couloir was quite difficult and dangerous due to the risk of rockfall, but there was no other visible path nearby.

The couloir led to a 5-meter sheer smooth wall representing a plane of schistosity (section R10). Here, the holds were very small and unreliable, making it a complex climb requiring the use of three-step ladders.

They entered an unclearly expressed couloir with a steepness of up to 60° and continued movement along its left edge, as the bottom was potentially rockfall-prone (section R11). The weather began to deteriorate; the sky was covered with clouds, and fog often rolled in.

The couloir ended in a rocky wall with a steepness of up to 70° (section R12), followed by a more gentle section (section R13). They made a small zigzag to the right and then left, bypassing the rocky wall (section R14), and reached an unclearly expressed counterfort. The rocks throughout sections R12–R14 had a similar character to those described above: crumbling schist, holds and ledges often icy and snow-covered. The entire segment was traversed in very poor weather conditions: visibility was limited to 20–30 m, with a strengthening snowstorm. On the counterfort, they found small 0.5×1–1.5 m snow-free ledges and settled in for the night. The night's rest was sitting on suspended backpacks. Three people were accommodated in a "Pamirka" tent on one ledge, and two in a "Zdarka" on another.

For almost the entire day's journey, movement was along pre-hung perlon ropes simultaneously. On rockfall-prone sections R9–R11, they moved in turns. The bad weather continued far into the night but substantially improved by morning.

July 20. In the morning, the sky was cloudy, but the clouds were low, with rare small clearings.

They quickly gathered and continued, but the pace of movement significantly decreased because:

• The rocks were covered with freshly fallen snow.
• The further route was traversed for the first time.
• There was no preliminary processing.

From the night's rest, the path went along a gently rising counterfort (section R15), which soon adjoined a vertical wall. The ascent up the wall was technically difficult, with holds covered in snow, often icy (section R16). The wall turned into steep (up to 60°) crumbling rocks (section R17), and then the path was again blocked by a 20-meter sheer wall similar to the previous one (section R18). After passing the wall, they deviated somewhat to the right and, continuing to gain height, reached a counterfort along crumbling rocks of medium steepness (section R19). Belaying throughout was via rock and channel hooks and rare protrusions.

Upon reaching the counterfort, the weather significantly deteriorated. The wall was shrouded in fog, snow began to fall with moderate wind, and visibility substantially decreased.

They continued moving along snow-covered rocks of the counterfort (section R20), which ended in a 5-meter sheer wall. The weather had deteriorated so much that further advancement became quite challenging and unsafe. At the foot of the rocky wall, 15 m to the left of the counterfort's ridge, they found a small snow patch with a steepness of about 40° and, after leveling the area, set up a bivouac. The platform wasn't very spacious due to the limited space between the snow-ice slope and the rock above. Nonetheless, they managed to hang a "Pamirka" tent and sit inside it crosswise, five people together. The night was very restless due to the snowstorm continuing far into the night, with the tent often being pressed by snow falling down the wall. They had to exit and clear the snow.

July 21. In the morning, the weather was good: cloudy, but with occasional glimpses of the sun. The first rope team departed at 9:00. They overcame the 5-meter sheer rocky wall (section R21) and reached a snowy slope (section R22). Movement along the slope was significantly hindered: the snow was fresh, loose, and it was practically impossible to stamp out steps. The depth of the snow reached 0.5 m. Belaying was done with ice axes, but trampling platforms took a lot of time. They approached a rocky ledge rising like an 8-meter, nearly sheer wall (section R23). Holds and protrusions, like everywhere else, were dusted with fresh snow. Dry, loose snow constantly trickled down the ledge. They passed the wall and reached a more gentle snow-covered section of the slope (section R24). Here, the path became significantly easier as rocky outcrops began to appear among the snow, allowing for hook belaying. Moving straight up, they reached a weakly expressed counterfort composed of strongly crumbling, snow-covered rocks of medium difficulty (section R25). The ascent up the counterfort began under significantly deteriorated weather conditions; it was snowing. The counterfort's upper part turned into inclined, snow-covered, and icy slabs, steeply (up to 70–75°) sloping down the slope (section R26) (photo 3). The slabs were technically difficult to pass, especially in bad weather. They traversed 80 m, searching for a place to bivouac. To their right and below, about 70 m away, through a gap in the fog, they saw a small counterfort forming a ledge with an almost horizontal surface and a tent of the "Burevestnik" team on it. Since there were no other options for stopping, after consulting, they traversed the slope to the right and down and reached the tent - the final point of the processed part of the route by the "Burevestnik" team. The platform was quite wide and rocky. They set up their tent and comfortably settled in for the night. Finally, they had the chance to spend a peaceful night despite the snowstorm and wind.

July 22. In the morning, the bad weather continued. Only by 10:00 did it slightly clear up, but there was no hope for significant weather improvement. They decided to stay on the platform until the next morning.

To not waste time:

• The duo (Studenin and Medvedev) went out to process the further path.
• The others brought their gear in order and dried their equipment.

By mid-day, the weather had somewhat improved, but by 16:00–17:00, fog and snow returned. Studenin and Medvedev returned, having processed sections R27–R29 of the route. Soon, voices were heard from below, and a group from Moscow's "Burevestnik" climbed up to the platform. They spent the night together.

July 23. By morning, the weather had improved. They quickly gathered and by 8:00 left the hospitable platform. They returned to their route. The further path lay along steep slopes, often icy (section R27).

Along the perlon ropes hung the day before, their pace of movement was quite high, even despite the constant snow falling down the wall, covering them from head to toe. Above, the rocks again took on the character of snow-covered, inclined slabs along the slope (section R28). Along the slabs, they moved left and up and reached a steep rocky wall (section R29), along which they shifted right and up.

Above stretched a long snow-covered slope of medium steepness, bounded on the left by a large couloir and on the right by the ridge of the counterfort (section R30). Characteristics of the slope:

• Snow was loose, up to 60–70 cm deep.
• It held very poorly.
• Under the snow, there was often ice and icy rocks.

Moving along the couloir or near it was dangerous due to the risk of avalanche. Moreover, belaying there was only possible through ice axes, which was unreliable given the state of the snow.

Considering these circumstances, they moved up the snowy slope, pressing to the right towards the counterfort's ridge. Here, they sometimes encountered rocky islands, allowing for hook belaying.

The weather quickly deteriorated, and the end of the section was traversed under conditions of:

• Blizzard,
• Very poor visibility,
• Strong wind.

To the right of their route, on the counterfort's ridge, they noticed a gentle section and moved there. Here, the ridge was somewhat flattened and covered with a thick layer of snow, allowing for a convenient tent platform.

It was still early (13:00), but the raging blizzard excluded any possibility of further advancement. They had to "sit it out." The blizzard continued throughout the night.

July 24. In the morning, the weather had hardly improved. They were significantly snowed in. They exited, cleared their tent and platform. There was no indication of significant weather improvement, so they decided to stay on this platform. Around 10:00, Studenin and Medvedev went out to further process the route. By mid-day, the weather had deteriorated so much that they were forced to return, having processed sections R31 and R32.

At the same time, the "Burevestnik" group arrived at the platform and set up camp nearby. It was around 13:00, and again they had to "sit it out." Visibility was reduced to 10–20 m. The bad weather continued in the evening and throughout the night.

July 25. In the morning, it had somewhat cleared up, but soon everything was again shrouded in fog. There was light snowfall.

At 9:00, Studenin and Marchenko went out to process the route. The others brought their bivouac and equipment in order. Much was thoroughly wet, but there was nowhere to dry it outside - it was snowing.

At 10:00, the second duo went out to assist the first. Processing continued almost the entire day under very poor weather conditions. They returned to the tent around 20:00, thoroughly wet, having processed sections R33–R34.

Only at night did the blizzard cease, and it became very cold.

July 26. In the morning, there was fog, and snow was falling - sometimes intensifying, sometimes weakening. At times, the fog dispersed, and glimpses of blue sky were visible. Often, the North Inylchek glacier with the base camp came into view. They decided, without relocating, to process the complex wall section of the route to the end. Again, the duo Studenin and Medvedev went up. Soon, the "Burevestnik" group dismantled their camp and left according to their route. By mid-day, the weather had again sharply deteriorated: heavy snowfall, minimal visibility. The rope team returned at 19:00. The climbers were frozen to the bone but were pleased that the complex part of the wall (up to section R37) was fully processed. At night, the blizzard stopped, and it became very cold.

July 27. The sky was completely clear. Everything around was white from fresh snow. It was very cold. The tent was icy, and it had to be thoroughly warmed with a primus stove to pack it into a backpack. Although they got up very early, warming up and drying took a lot of time, so they departed only at 8:30.

From the bivouac, they moved in a traverse to the left for 150 m because the route directly up the ridge was followed by the "Burevestnik" team. The traverse was along a snow-covered slope along the foot of a large sheer rocky wall.

They approached the base of a gully (unclearly expressed internal angle) going straight up with a steepness of 70–75°. The ascent up the gully presented significant demands on the technical preparation of the participants. Throughout its length, there were smooth rocks with small, icy holds (section R31). They organized rope hauling and passed the section unencumbered.

They reached steeply inclined, snow-covered ledges stepping left and up (section R32). Following them, after 40 m, they approached a 10-meter overhanging rocky wall (section R33), not promising an easy passage. However, around them towered such sheer cliffs that this seemed to be the only ascent option. Here, they had to use three-step ladders.

Further, the route followed a sheer internal angle, the overcoming of which was associated with no less technical difficulties than on the previous wall. Again, ladders were often used (section R34). The top of the angle abutted a 5-meter overhanging rocky wall (section R35), passable exclusively with ladders. Overcoming all three sections R33–R35 was done with rope hauling.

Climbing here was quite challenging due to:

• Holds being quite rare and small,
• Holds typically covered with ice crust.

Apparently, this was one of the most complex sections of the route. The section outside the wall (R36) was somewhat simpler but still quite difficult. Along icy rocks with a steepness of up to 75°, they moved up with small deviations: initially to the right, then to the left at the end of the section.

They reached an extended snowy slope with a rocky outcrop directly above them. The snow was deep but very loose, not allowing for reliable belaying with ice axes. They moved up towards the rocky outcrop (section R37) in turns, considering the unreliability of the belay.

On the rocky outcrop:

• They drove a hook;
• Turned sharply left towards a seemingly simpler and safer path (section R38).

Movement through deep, loose snow required significant effort, but belaying on this section was more reliable as ice was sometimes found under the snow, allowing the use of ice hooks.

The weather began to deteriorate:

• Everything around was quickly shrouded in fog;
• Snowfall began.

A slight ascent, and they reached a weakly elevated section of the snowy slope. Here, they could create a small platform suitable for a night's rest. They began working and dug into the slope. However, they soon reached a steep rocky base that did not allow for expanding the platform for a normal tent setup.

Therefore, they had to spend the night:

• Sitting;
• With only one slope of the tent stretched;
• Leaning back against the snow-ice wall of the dug-out.

They spent a very restless night, as they often had to exit and clear the tent from snow.

July 28. In the morning, they rose wet and unrested. However, the weather was good, and they had to continue the ascent. They departed at 9:00, maintaining their direction straight up the snowy slope (section R39). The slope's character and movement conditions were almost unchanged from the previous day's last sections.

They traversed a snow-covered rocky outcrop (section R40) and then again ascended the snowy slope (section R41). The path was blocked by a rocky ledge 10 m high. The rocks were icy and snow-covered (section R42). Further, another long snowy slope stretched (section R43).

It was hard to move: deep, loose snow, under which ice was often found. Trampling steps required prolonged snow compaction.

After passing the snowy slope, they reached steep, snow-covered rocks (section R44) and then ascended a sheer internal angle (section R45), where the climbing difficulty significantly increased. The weather quickly deteriorated. Snow was constantly falling down the angle, accumulating above on the wall.

From the angle, they transitioned to steep, icy, and snow-covered rocks and continued moving left and up (section R46). The rocks were of medium difficulty, but the ascent conditions were very harsh: a blizzard raged, and waves of falling snow swept by.

Further, along a snow-covered, steep couloir leading right and up, they reached a small rocky outcrop (section R47). Thirty minutes of intense work, and they managed to level a convenient stony platform, sufficient for setting up a tent.

July 29. Departure was delayed until 10:00 due to the extreme cold and the need to warm frozen crampons, woolen underwear, and the icy tent on a primus stove. From the bivouac, they ascended directly up the snowy slope with a steepness of about 40° (section R48). They reached steep, snow-covered rocks and, once again, were under streams of falling snow. The rocks, of medium difficulty, were traversed left and up (section R49). Further, a rocky wall, nearly sheer, rose (section R50). The ascent up the wall was very difficult, requiring the use of a "podsadka" (a person standing on another's shoulders) by the first climber in the lower part and ladders in the middle part of its 30-meter sheer face. They overcame the wall and reached an almost horizontal, snow-covered ledge, along which they moved 10 m to the left (section R51). The ledge led to a snowy slope with frequent rocky outcrops (section R52). Here, the snow was very loose, weakly holding on the icy rocky base.

Moving straight up, they reached a wide (15–20 m), steeply inclined ledge covered with deep (up to 80 cm) loose snow. The ledge marked the contact between the schist and the overlying marble and was distinctly traceable across the entire wall. The weather deteriorated, with the entire sky covered with a dense layer of clouds. They traversed the ledge diagonally to the left, shifting about 70 m (section R53). There, they searched for an exit onto the marble part of the wall, rising sheer above them. Belaying was mostly through pitons; they had to move very cautiously, considering the character and thickness of the snow cover.

The ascent onto the marble was via an internal angle, with a steepness close to sheer (section R54). The ascent was quite difficult, proceeding under very poor weather conditions along icy and snow-covered small holds. To facilitate the climb, they set up rope hauling.

Further, they moved right and up along steep, snow-covered, and often icy slabs (section R55). From above, streams of snow poured down. Visibility was minimal, with a strong blizzard.

They investigated the slope in search of a place to spend the night and found nothing better than a steep snowy section under a small rocky ledge. They trampled the snow and dug into the ice saturated with stones. At a shallow depth, they encountered steep rocks limiting their workspace.

The platform was smaller than the tent's dimensions, but they managed to spend the night. However, the night did not treat them to a peaceful rest:

• Streams of snow constantly passed from above.
• Sometimes snow overflowed the ledge and filled the tent.
• They often had to exit and clear the snow.

July 30. The weather was clear, but very cold. They performed the ritual of warming their footwear and tent, now a habit. Many things, including sleeping bags, were thoroughly wet. At 9:00, from the bivouac, they ascended directly up strongly snow-covered rocks (section R56). Above them, an impregnable bastion of a powerful, sheer marble wall loomed. To the right, they noticed a not very distinct counterfort.

They traversed almost horizontally in that direction (section R57). The rocks were of medium difficulty but snow-covered. The air temperature remained very low.

After 60 m, they began ascending directly up similar snow-covered rocks (section R58) and reached a small counterfort abutting the wall. The previously noticed counterfort was located even further to the right. Therefore:

• They traversed another 60 m of very steep, nearly sheer rocks requiring technical climbing (section R59).
• In the middle part of the traverse, there was a completely smooth, sheer 5-meter section, forcing them to use a pendulum.

The end of the traverse was fixed by an internal angle going straight up with great steepness (section R60). Climbing here was also quite challenging. Having passed the angle, they reached less steep (up to 65°) snow-covered rocks and moved first right and up (section R61), then straight up (section R62).

The further path lay along a sheer internal angle bending in its upper part (section R63). The difficult ascent up the angle, and they were on a small inclined platform. Above them loomed a small (20 m) but very complex wall. The weather began to deteriorate, but movement was still possible.

They ascended the wall with free climbing but had to use ladders due to:

• A negative section,
• Lack of reliable holds in the upper part.

They moved unencumbered, hauling their backpacks. The difficulty of passing the wall was exacerbated by streams of snow frequently sweeping over the climbers.

The wall gave way to an extended 60-degree slope composed of inclined marble slabs (section R65). The weather had finally deteriorated: wind, blizzard.

Moving along the slabs:

• Up,
• Slightly to the left,

they reached the ridge of the counterfort. Here, on a snowy section, they managed to create a platform, clearly insufficient for a comfortable night's rest. As had happened many times before, they had to clear the tent from snow falling down the wall during the night.

July 31. The morning was clear, very cold. The height was already felt, around 6500 m.

Frozen and icy equipment, cold, strong wind blowing snow off the wall, poor bivouac conditions - all this did not contribute to quick gathering, and they began their further ascent only at 10:00.

Directly from the bivouac, there were difficult rocks presented by steep, icy marble slabs (section R66).

Above rose a 60-meter sheer wall with an internal angle leading straight up (section R67).

The ascent up the angle was very challenging:

• Sheer walls,
• Small, icy holds,
• Sections of overhanging rocks.

Here, as nowhere else on the route, ladders found their application. Undoubtedly, section R67 was one of the most difficult on the traversed route.

Both sections R66 and R67 were traversed with rope hauling.

Further, the internal angle continued but became more gentle and gradually turned into a couloir (section R68). Here, the rocks were simpler, but more snow-covered and icy.

They exited into a long, wide couloir filled with deep (up to 50–80 cm) snow (section R69). The couloir was relatively gentle, but the deep, loose snow significantly hindered progress. In the upper part of the couloir, they transitioned to steep, snow-covered marble slabs (section R70) and, moving right and up, ascended to the ridge of the counterfort. The ridge was predominantly rocky, abundant with protrusions and fairly gentle - all this allowed for simultaneous movement without using hooks.

This day was marked by remarkably stable weather, allowing them to work until dusk. They spent the night on the counterfort's ridge on a spacious rocky platform.

August 1. The sky was clear, very cold, and there was a strong wind. They ascended up the counterfort's ridge. The rocks were of medium difficulty, with frequent protrusions allowing them to minimize hook belaying (section R72). The counterfort abutted a sheer wall. They traversed left along steep rocks and, after 80 m (section R73), reached another counterfort. The latter was traversed straight up along crumbling rocks of medium difficulty (section R74). Movement was very cautious due to many "live" stones. The counterfort led to a steep, nearly sheer rocky wall (section R75). Difficult climbing along snow-covered rocks, and after 40 m, they reached a gentle snowy slope leading to the summit (section R76). The weather began to deteriorate. The sun still shone, but the panorama of the area was already shrouded in clouds. They slowly moved up the deep snow towards the summit. Soon, they met a group from "Burevestnik" - they had already been to the summit and were now descending via the Kuzmin route. A few dozen meters more, and at 17:20, they reached the cairn on the summit of Khan-Tengri. Unfortunately, the weather had significantly deteriorated, and the enveloping fog obscured the view.

They began their descent along the western ridge towards the saddle between Khan-Tengri and Chapayev. Non-complex rocks alternated with snowy sections, and movement was fairly quick. By evening, they reached a small snow-covered ridge on a counterfort at a height of about 6600 m. Heavy snowfall, fog. They quickly trampled a platform in the snow, set up their tent, and settled in for the night.

Main Technical Characteristics