REPORT ON THE PARTICIPATION OF THE CS DSO “LOKOMOTIV” TEAM IN THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM IN THE 1974 SEASON The composition of the team that actually participated in the championship:

• Manshin Yu.P. — team captain,
• Volkov R.P. — deputy captain,
• Repin V.D.,
• Vodolazhsky V.K.,
• Svitov V.M. The team was supported by a rescue team and a communications group consisting of:
• Marfin V.M.,
• Shmuylovich S.G.,

Ascent Record (First Ascent)

1. Ascent classification: technical
2. Region: Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Karakol area, Telety valley.
3. Peak: p. Dimitrova. Height: 4072 m. Route: from the northwest via the hanging glacier. Route characteristics: snow-ice.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m; average steepness — 35–45°; length — 300 m.
6. Number of ice screws used for belay — 18.
7. Duration: 3.5–4.5 hours.
8. Team members: Bondarev Sergey Borisovich, Pr. — leader

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Arashan-Tashtektor gorge
3. Peak — Palatka, 4800 m, via the counterfort of the North face
4. Complexity category — approximately 6B, first ascent, combined route
5. Route length — 1320 m, wall section length — 1020 m, of which 5–6th cat. dif. — 800 m, 6th cat. dif. — 240 m, height difference on the wall section — 870 m, total height difference — 1040 m, average steepness of the wall section — 64°
6. Number of pitons and placements used:
   • Rock pitons: 71
   • Placements: 24
   • Ice screws: 66

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification — technical, route — combined.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Slonenok, 4720 m, route through the center of the north-west wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 260 m, average steepness — 55°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock: for belay — 57 for creating TAE — 1

Ascent Passport

I. Class: rock. 2. Region: Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tashtambektor gorge. 3. Peak, its height, route: Central Sherkhan, 4220 m, via the Eastern ridge. 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B. 5. Characteristics: height difference: 400 m, average steepness: 40°, length of 5B sections: none. 6. Pitons hammered:

Sayramsky District of the Ugam Range. Ascent to the "Kergely" peak, dedicated to the XIV Congress of the Komsomol. Category 1B. Height 3787.3 m.

You need to leave the bivouac located near the lake as early as possible, because the peak is quite far away (departure at 6:00 am at the latest). Moving along the right side of the ancient moraine, we reach the depression left by the ancient glacier. The approach to the depression takes 1.5–2 hours. From the depression, we ascend directly "head-on" up the steep snowfield, keeping to the left side, to reach easy rock terrain, and, continuing along the rocks or snow (if it's not loose), we reach the first ascent to the pass. The path from the depression to the end of the first ascent takes 40–60 minutes. Then begins the second ascent along a snowfield with a steepness of 45–50°. The path from the first ascent to the second takes 30 minutes. After that, we move to the third ascent and reach the pass. As we ascend to the third rise, we need to gradually move to the right towards three rocks protruding with sharp peaks. The entire path from the depression to the end of the third ascent is along the snow and takes one and a half to two hours. By-passing the three isolated rocks from the south, we reach the south-eastern ridge. The further path goes along the south-eastern ridge. The ridge consists of severely degraded rocks with small, loose scree. At first, the belay is organized alternately, and then, as we move forward, we can move simultaneously with running belay. Severely degraded rocks are circumvented from the south, slightly below, along the loose scree. Having reached the first depression, we descend into it and emerge onto the southern snowy slope. The slope has a steepness of 40–45°.

First ascender: Zhukov V. — rest of the information is lost. Further data on Shekhovtsov S.'s group.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge. #7 / 7.12 according to the 2001 classifier
2. Mt. Bolshoy Chimgan. 3309 m via N ridge / W spur.
3. Proposed category: 2A category of difficulty
4. Route type: Combined (ridge)
5. Route elevation gain: 1499 m (by GPS) Route length: 3680 m (by GPS) Section lengths:
   • II category of difficulty – 2267 m (by GPS)

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Ascent area, ridge: S-3 Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJOLOY ZAPADNY (WESTERN) via the northern glacier slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 630 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty category average steepness 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for insurance rock — ice — 42 bolted — for creating and organizing emergency stops rock — ice — bolted —
7. Number of travel hours: 6

From the "Nefertiti" bivouac in the gorge between the Korona peak and down the scree along the Arabik river to the pass (2 hours). Straight up to the scree shoulder and right along the slope 35–40° (300 m) to the shoulder below the route. Left of the ridge along a snowy couloir (150 m, 30°) and right onto the rocks. Along broken rocks (50 m) to the "Bird" gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via a crack (6 m) and then from the rocks along the snow (60 m) - exit to the col (cornice). Elevation 3610 m, 1 hour from the shoulder. Along the ridge on rocks with simultaneous belay, mainly left of the ridge, on snow and rocks (100 m). Along a snowy slope 20 m, 35°, then straight up (3 m, 75°) and left 20 m to bypass a rocky gendarme. Then right into a crack (5 m) onto the ridge and along the ridge (8 m) on granite rocks (with belay). Along the ridge from the rocks on the left on snow (100 m) to grey rocks, up 10 m; then left - traverse along a ledge and up a crack (4 m). Left of the rocks on snow (cautiously, cornices) with rock outcrops (30°, 300 m) to the summit. The exit to the summit is from right to left. Elevation - 39 km. From the shoulder - 3 hours. 9 loops were used for belay.

Ascent passport.

1. Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier, junction with Druzhba glacier, Meridionalny ridge, section 7.16 of the "Classifier".
2. Peak Otkryty 5664 m via the southwest ridge.
3. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A. First ascent.
4. Height difference: 924 m (by altimeter). By height: 4740 m — 4860 m (120 m) — category 1, slope 20°, 4860 m — 5450 m (590 m) — 3A — 3B category, slope 40°–50°, 5450 m — 5664 m (214 m) — 2A category, slope 25°–35°. Average slope 40°.
5. Ice screws used: 5 pieces.