As­cent pass­port to the ver­tex of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov (3032 m) via South-Western ridge, cat. III dif­fi­cul­ty. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ula­gol gul­ly, sec­tion 6.1. 2. Ver­tex of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov (3032 m) via North­ern slope. 3. Pro­posed cat. III dif­fi­cul­ty, first as­cent. 4. Char­ac­ter of the route is rocky. 5. Al­ti­tude dif­fer­ence 630 m. dis­tance 950 m. av­er­age steep­ness 47°. 6. Pitons driven: rocky and stop­pers 11 pcs. 7. Team's work­ing hours — 7 h. 8. No biv­ou­acs on the route. 9. Group: Ak­syo­nov A.V. CMS, Vas­il­yev M.Yu. 3rd sports rank, Vi­no­gra­dov N.N. 3rd sports rank, Go­lo­vin V.V. 3rd sports rank, Gey­da­rov K.G. 3rd sports rank, March­u­kov K.F. 3rd sports rank. 10. Coach Afa­na­syev A.E. MS. 11. As­cent to the sum­mit and re­turn April 30, 2010.

Ascent passport for Starkova peak, 3187 m, via South-Eastern couloir, cat. 2A diff.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Ganga Khairyim valley, section 6.1.2.
2. Starkova peak 3187 m, via South-Eastern couloir.
3. Proposed cat. 2A diff., first ascent description.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 400 m, length — 700 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and chock stones — 9 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours — 11 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. First ascender and first traverser of the route — Starkov, 1963.

Report on the First Ascent to General'sky Pogon Peak via the "Da B" Route on the Central Western Counterfort, Category 3B, by the Team "Nevozmozhno eto ne navsegda" from March 27, 2020, to March 27, 2020.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO ULA-GOL PEAK 2911 m, VIA THE SECOND BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN WALL, CATEGORY 4B DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF THE "GORy BaikalA" CLUB FROM 27.03.2020 TO 27.03.2020

I. Ascent Report

Report

On the first ascent

Tortuga Peak (2770 m) – eastern ridge, route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent – Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Moigota valley, 6.1.2

Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants: Tokmachev A.A., Lipchenko A.V. The ascent was made on June 22, 2022. 2022

I. Ascent Passport

6.2 Western Sayan Golova, 1970 m, 5A, via the center of the SW wall Prokofiev D.E. July 10, 2013

Ascent Record

1. Region — Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan
2. Peak — Golova, 1970 m, via the center of the SW wall. 5A.
3. Assumed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock
5. Route description: elevation gain — 350 m. route length — 445 m. length of 6th category sections — 100 m. length of 4th category sections — 345 m. average slope — 57°, main part 70°
6. Equipment left on the route: total 0

End of the R0–R1 section. Denis Prokofiev at the R1 station Start of the R1–R2 section Denis Prokofiev on the R2–R3 section Key sections of the route, R3–R5. Approach to the R3 station. Denis Prokofiev approaching the chimney, key section R4–R5, shot from the R4 station

Siberian Federal District and Far Eastern Federal District Championship in Alpinism

Technical and Altitude Class, 2024

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the 3rd wall, category 5B, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai on July 29, 2024 2024

I. ASCENT PASSPORT

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak Zvezdny Vostochny 2100 m from Piquantny pass.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
5. Height difference 110 m, route length 450 m, average slope 35°.
6. 18 (0) fixed protection elements used on the route.
7. Number of climbing hours — seven.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group composition:

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.