PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent category.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Aksai spur.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via north wall couloirs (Barber's route), 4740 m.
4. Proposed category 5B difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference — 680 m, length — 865 m. Length of category 5B difficulty — 520 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (4060–4660 m), including sections of 51° (4120–4420 m), 52° (4420–4580 m), 59° (4580–4660 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 1 ice 340

Russian Championship in mountaineering in the ice and snow class Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North Face couloir, 5B cat. sl. Barber's route on February 20, 2015.

Ascent Details

1. Mountain system: Tian Shan Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range Valley: Ak-Sai Peak name: Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m
2. Route name: via the North Face couloir
3. Category of difficulty: 5B cat. sl.
4. Route type: ice and snow

1. p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. team leader: Sergey Dashkevich, Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Aksay valley.
4. Section in classification 7.4

Report

on the second ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) to p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6A cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Ekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, ap. 17, Sergey Dashkevich, Tel. 89122436251, Dash-sa@mail.ru, Ekaterinburg, 2010

Report on the ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea

Ministry of Sports of the Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Alpinism Championship

2016

Class: Snow and Ice

Report

On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via the right part of the left triangle of the N wall, route "Krasnoyarsky" First ascent, estimated 6A category of difficulty Krasnoyarsk 2016

Ascent Details

KIEV CITY COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK SVOBODNAYA KOREYA VIA THE NORTH FACE Kiev, 1969 www.alpfederation.ru

List of participants

1. 1961 "Burevestnik" led by L. Myshliaev
2. 1966 Kazakhstan led by B. Studenin

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
2. Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m, center of the North face (Yu. Popenko)
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference (bergschrund 4100 m – summit 4740 m) — 640 m. Route length to the ridge — 870 m. Route length to the summit — 1070 m. Section lengths:

• 6 category of difficulty — 160 m
• 5 category of difficulty — 460 m. Average steepness to the ridge — 65°. Average steepness of the main part of the route (to the "roof") — 75°.

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Tian-Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaia Korea, 4740 m, via the north wall.
4. 6A category difficulty (S. Semiletkin, 1988) 9th ascent.
5. Elevation gain 820 m, route length — 1125 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty is 390 m, 6th category — 310 m. Average steepness of the route is 60°.
6. Pitons used | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category
   • winter
2. Region
   • Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Object
   • Pik Svobodnaya Korea.
4. Category of difficulty
   • 6B, ctm 7.4.144 (S. Semiletkin, 1988)
5. Height difference — 890 m, length — 1160 m.

Free Korea. North Face (first ascent). 1999 approx. 6A category. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range.

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Free Korea. North Face. 4740 m.
4. Route 6A category (approx.) first ascent.
5. Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergschrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m.
6. Length of the central part 285 m.

Route Description

From the Myrdı bivouac, ascend the grassy slopes towards the lower part of the eastern ridge of Pyramida. Then turn right onto the large, wide slopes cut by a chain of couloirs and scree, rising towards the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier. Reach the glacier via the large, long moraine. Continue straight up towards the clearly visible, rightmost narrow saddle on the Pyramida ridge. The ridge connects to the summit of Ak-bashi to the right. The ascent to the saddle follows a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then a narrow 100-meter couloir (ice in the second half of summer). From the saddle, descend 50 m to the other side and follow a wide, 400-meter scree shelf that wraps around the base of Pyramida from the west, approaching a large rocky outcrop. Ascend the outcrop upwards and to the left, then move onto inclined shelves above a white quartz vein (protection!). Then bypass the first rocky prominence and move towards the wedge-shaped rock protruding from the second rocky prominence on the ridge. Ascend to the wedge-shaped rock via broken rocks, then follow the inner angle - a couloir (water!) - to reach the upper scree slopes above the wall via a small R6 rock wall. Follow the scree slopes and small ridges to reach the main ridge of the summit at a large, horizontally lying slab. From here, move left and down into a small depression, then ascend to the summit via yellow rocks. 6 hours from the bivouac. Descent from the summit follows the "Pyramida via the Southeast Ridge" route.

• Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 5 am.
• On the eve of the ascent day, mark the path to the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier.