Ascent Log

Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p. 6.2. Peak — Golova, 1970 m, direct route up the E wall, route name "Slesarnya". Category — 5B cat. sl., first ascent. Route type — rock climb. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, total route length — 470 m, length of wall section — 320 m, length of sections with 6 cat. sl. — 225 m, 5 cat. sl. — 15 m,

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m via the South-West edge.
4. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 315 m, length 340 m, length of section 5–6 category of difficulty 210 m.

Climbing Passport

1. Center of Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, 6.2.
2. Zvezdny peak, via S wall center (via "Mirror")
3. First ascent, 6A category of difficulty.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Elevation gain along the route according to altimeter — 350 m. Route length — 500 m. Length of sections:

• V category of difficulty — 50 m
• VI category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness:
• main part — 84°

ASCENT REPORT

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
2. Peak name: Zvezdny Peak, route name: via the left part of the West Face.
3. Proposed category: 6A, variation.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 495 m (by altimeter). Route length: 539 m. Section length: 5th cat. diff.: 260 m, 6th cat. diff.: 239 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route: 83°

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, Balezin's route, 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Republic of Khakassia on August 8, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
2. Peak — Zvezdny via the NE wall and the bastions on the NW ridge
3. Category — 6A, first ascent
4. Route type — rock
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 600 m. Route length — 830 m. Length of 6B sections — 375 m, 5B sections — 220 m. Average steepness of the main part: first bastion — 80°, second — 80°, third — 90°, whole route — 67°.
6. Equipment left on the route: pitons — 1, including drilled pitons — 0, chocks — 1. Pitons used on the route:

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class 2020

REPORT

On the ascent of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai and Moscow, Parfenov A.A. – Lebedev N.M. to Peak Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the Center of the NE wall, 6A (Khvostenko, 01)

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
2. Peak — Zub Drakona via the center of the SW wall of the central tower
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route character — rock climbing
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 460 m. Route length — 580 m. Section lengths:

• 6th category of difficulty — 340 m.
• 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Average steepness of the lower part: 70°, upper part — 90°, entire route — 70°

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak: 2060 m, Molodezhny peak, left chimney of North wall.
4. Proposed: category 3B difficulty.
5. Route type: rock climbing.
6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 300 m. Route length 480 m. Length of category 4 section 130 m.

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4